lt1 rebuild suggestions
#1
lt1 rebuild suggestions
hi guys, i'm doing my 84 regal lt1 swap
i drop off heads just to make sure everything is alright, and saw some cracks in #2cyl, when i removed oil pan i saw destroyed nut, different rods and some forget gm crank(#14088532)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1384251474
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1384254140
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1384254161
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1384254175
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1384254213
i'm going to rebuild it to 355 and have a few questions:
1. can i use this crank without any issues?
2. unfortunaly i have money only on some speed pro forged pistons like LW2256F30 with 3/8 scat rods, i think it's heavier than stock how much power I'll loss with that?
which rings are good to use with these?
3. with that pistons and .026 gasket i will have around 10.1 CR on 64cc iron heads.
What the stock CR with iron heads?
do i need a pcm tune if it be little bit more than stock?
thanks
i drop off heads just to make sure everything is alright, and saw some cracks in #2cyl, when i removed oil pan i saw destroyed nut, different rods and some forget gm crank(#14088532)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1384251474
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1384254140
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1384254161
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1384254175
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1384254213
i'm going to rebuild it to 355 and have a few questions:
1. can i use this crank without any issues?
2. unfortunaly i have money only on some speed pro forged pistons like LW2256F30 with 3/8 scat rods, i think it's heavier than stock how much power I'll loss with that?
which rings are good to use with these?
3. with that pistons and .026 gasket i will have around 10.1 CR on 64cc iron heads.
What the stock CR with iron heads?
do i need a pcm tune if it be little bit more than stock?
thanks
#3
On The Tree
Join Date: Jul 2011
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Some people will say the stock crank is better than alot of budget cranks out there. If you can spare the budget I'd get rid of those b body iron heads for a set of F or Y body aluminum. Not exactly sure of flow numbers or chamber sizes but those heads can be had for cheap. A better question is where you budget stands.
#4
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Scrap that motor and find another good used stocker.
Stock b-body compression is 10:1 the iron heads flow well BUT they are heavy and have pressed studs and fairly restrictive retainer to seal clearance, but if staying stock that stuff doesn't matter.
If you have ANY thoughts of completing this project without custom pcm reprogramming drop the project right now.
A cheap rebuild with cheap machining can be a step backwards from stock, sounds like you pretty much just want an injected engine in a g-body not really chasing HP, if so again just find a good used stock engine.
Stock b-body compression is 10:1 the iron heads flow well BUT they are heavy and have pressed studs and fairly restrictive retainer to seal clearance, but if staying stock that stuff doesn't matter.
If you have ANY thoughts of completing this project without custom pcm reprogramming drop the project right now.
A cheap rebuild with cheap machining can be a step backwards from stock, sounds like you pretty much just want an injected engine in a g-body not really chasing HP, if so again just find a good used stock engine.
#5
Thanks for the responses.
I forgot to say, i live in Russia and i can't just go and buy good used engine. Prices for good running lt1 starts from 2000 and probably it will be 200000+ miles b body engine
I have $2000-2500 for machine wokrs and parts and i want just good running stock engine now, in future i want go with heads, cam, may be some nitrous.
Tune not a big deal also. I know i must disable vats, improve tire size etc.
Car will be my daily driver and it need ton of works (welding, paint job etc). So i think i just can rebuild bottom end now and go with heads and cam in future, my final goal around 350-400 rwhp.
I know stock crank is good but i have only this gm forged unit (i think it's no worse then stock).
PS Sorry for my English.
I forgot to say, i live in Russia and i can't just go and buy good used engine. Prices for good running lt1 starts from 2000 and probably it will be 200000+ miles b body engine
I have $2000-2500 for machine wokrs and parts and i want just good running stock engine now, in future i want go with heads, cam, may be some nitrous.
Tune not a big deal also. I know i must disable vats, improve tire size etc.
Car will be my daily driver and it need ton of works (welding, paint job etc). So i think i just can rebuild bottom end now and go with heads and cam in future, my final goal around 350-400 rwhp.
I know stock crank is good but i have only this gm forged unit (i think it's no worse then stock).
PS Sorry for my English.
#6
You should find a good running stock engine and drop that in the car, you will save tons of money. In the meantime just keep saving up and then build the other engine up to the specs you want. Do it once and be done with it. No sense in rebuilding it to stock and then tearing it all down again and having it built for a second time.
If your goal is around 350-400 rwhp, bolt-ons, the proper H/C setup and a good tune should net you those numbers with an LT1.
If your goal is around 350-400 rwhp, bolt-ons, the proper H/C setup and a good tune should net you those numbers with an LT1.