ATI super pulley for cog belt drives
#1
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ATI super pulley for cog belt drives
How many of you cog belt drive guys are using one? I have looked online and there isn't a whole lot of info from people using this thing. It is 1 tooth smaller than the pulley I have now so don't know how much that will affect boost. Figured there had to be guys on here using one.
#5
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You peddle the car with a cog drive
There's a pretty good chance you are going to throw a belt....which not only is expensive on its own...but it has enough force to break other stuff too...
2: very heavy is subjective... and spinning mass reacts different than static mass... so its not that heavy on the nose once its rotating....which is all the time when the car is running.
3: only one size...correct.. 45 tooth...
But they make plenty of pullies for the crank and you can still spin it as fast as you want...
I'm spinning an 81tooth crank pulley...at 7400-7800 rpm....putting me right around the 740000 suggested blower Max...
Many people want to spin it a little less as they don't want to make as much power as I do...not such a hard thing to get a smaller crank pulley to spin it slower....
You don't just add it after you have bought a crank pulley...
You buy a crank pulley that suits your designed rpm knowing you are goingvto buy this ati super pulley
4: everything eventually breaks...
The sprag inside is a standard spray that you can buy for less than $40
Plus grease...and you need a standard retainer clip remover that you would use when rebuilding a transmission.
The bearing inside is also not very expensive....
Even if you do just send it in for repair...its pretty cheap to rebuild...
Most of the cost is in the cog outer portion, and assembly....the guts are cheap.
People who don't make their own pieces for things don't understand machining processes and just how much material does cost...
And lets not forget the heat treating and hardening process...
Before you go saying it sucks...you better have good reasons with some proof....
There are very few issues with them and they are being used successfully for 5+ years with no major issues and no problems caused by the "weight" of it.
You gotta remember...the blower it is made to work with...is a beefcake as far as its own parts go....many people rebuild their blower once a year...and none of those rebuilds are caused by this particular pulley.
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How much will going from a 46 tooth to a 45 tooth affect boost?
Soundengineer, have you had any issues with yours and how long have you run it? Thabks for the feedback so far guys.
Soundengineer, have you had any issues with yours and how long have you run it? Thabks for the feedback so far guys.
#7
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One tooth?
No noticeable difference.. you are talking about 8mm difference in circumference..
I myself have not spun thus one on my car...
But several of my close friends have been using it for a few years with no issues..
One buddy of mine races hardcore with his....another daily drives his...and a few are nice weather cars that see the track a few times a year..
Again.. with no issues.
No noticeable difference.. you are talking about 8mm difference in circumference..
I myself have not spun thus one on my car...
But several of my close friends have been using it for a few years with no issues..
One buddy of mine races hardcore with his....another daily drives his...and a few are nice weather cars that see the track a few times a year..
Again.. with no issues.
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#9
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1: Its not expensive if you consider what it does....
You peddle the car with a cog drive
There's a pretty good chance you are going to throw a belt....which not only is expensive on its own...but it has enough force to break other stuff too...
2: very heavy is subjective... and spinning mass reacts different than static mass... so its not that heavy on the nose once its rotating....which is all the time when the car is running.
3: only one size...correct.. 45 tooth...
But they make plenty of pullies for the crank and you can still spin it as fast as you want...
I'm spinning an 81tooth crank pulley...at 7400-7800 rpm....putting me right around the 740000 suggested blower Max...
Many people want to spin it a little less as they don't want to make as much power as I do...not such a hard thing to get a smaller crank pulley to spin it slower....
You don't just add it after you have bought a crank pulley...
You buy a crank pulley that suits your designed rpm knowing you are goingvto buy this ati super pulley
4: everything eventually breaks...
The sprag inside is a standard spray that you can buy for less than $40
Plus grease...and you need a standard retainer clip remover that you would use when rebuilding a transmission.
The bearing inside is also not very expensive....
Even if you do just send it in for repair...its pretty cheap to rebuild...
Most of the cost is in the cog outer portion, and assembly....the guts are cheap.
People who don't make their own pieces for things don't understand machining processes and just how much material does cost...
And lets not forget the heat treating and hardening process...
Before you go saying it sucks...you better have good reasons with some proof....
There are very few issues with them and they are being used successfully for 5+ years with no major issues and no problems caused by the "weight" of it.
You gotta remember...the blower it is made to work with...is a beefcake as far as its own parts go....many people rebuild their blower once a year...and none of those rebuilds are caused by this particular pulley.
You peddle the car with a cog drive
There's a pretty good chance you are going to throw a belt....which not only is expensive on its own...but it has enough force to break other stuff too...
2: very heavy is subjective... and spinning mass reacts different than static mass... so its not that heavy on the nose once its rotating....which is all the time when the car is running.
3: only one size...correct.. 45 tooth...
But they make plenty of pullies for the crank and you can still spin it as fast as you want...
I'm spinning an 81tooth crank pulley...at 7400-7800 rpm....putting me right around the 740000 suggested blower Max...
Many people want to spin it a little less as they don't want to make as much power as I do...not such a hard thing to get a smaller crank pulley to spin it slower....
You don't just add it after you have bought a crank pulley...
You buy a crank pulley that suits your designed rpm knowing you are goingvto buy this ati super pulley
4: everything eventually breaks...
The sprag inside is a standard spray that you can buy for less than $40
Plus grease...and you need a standard retainer clip remover that you would use when rebuilding a transmission.
The bearing inside is also not very expensive....
Even if you do just send it in for repair...its pretty cheap to rebuild...
Most of the cost is in the cog outer portion, and assembly....the guts are cheap.
People who don't make their own pieces for things don't understand machining processes and just how much material does cost...
And lets not forget the heat treating and hardening process...
Before you go saying it sucks...you better have good reasons with some proof....
There are very few issues with them and they are being used successfully for 5+ years with no major issues and no problems caused by the "weight" of it.
You gotta remember...the blower it is made to work with...is a beefcake as far as its own parts go....many people rebuild their blower once a year...and none of those rebuilds are caused by this particular pulley.
The fact is it is expensive compared to std pulleys. As far as throwing belts.........if your stuff is set up right and rigid you should have no problems pedaling the car, and I do have experience with this. You suggest that this super pulley is the end all to belt throwing issues and it is not.
The fact is that it is a lot heavier than a std pulley. Can't argue this. It may not make a difference in performance.........but it is heavier.
Yes changing crank pulleys can account for this super pulley being only one size. But from a boost tuning perspective........it is a limiting factor. Whether or not it "limits" someone's program is up to the end user.
I agree......everything does eventually break. But we are not talking about everything. I doubt your gonna break a std pulley, while this pulley does have the opportunity to let you down.
I am not bashing this thing at all, just making those aware that it is not all pro's. There are some con's. How someone balances pro's and con's is up to the end user.
Different strokes for different folks.
Last edited by Blown06; 11-24-2013 at 11:27 PM.
#11
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The fact is it is expensive compared to std pulleys. As far as throwing belts.........if your stuff is set up right and rigid you should have no problems pedaling the car, and I do have experience with this. You suggest that this super pulley is the end all to belt throwing issues and it is not.
but Rigid mounting is not as easy as it sounds...and it doesnt solve a belt throwing issue from shock...
rigid only solves belt throw from twist
and to be truely rigid...is actually harder than just mounting the thing to the engine itself so it flexes with the engine
I went for that hard rigid mount.....
3/8 motor plate
1/8 mid plate
3/4 supercharger plate
1" thick travel limiter
all tie to the chassis in some way
and I will still have flex....but it will flex with the engine and the chassis together because of how I have it mounted.
The fact is that it is a lot heavier than a std pulley. Can't argue this. It may not make a difference in performance.........but it is heavier.
otherwise they would have made a skinnier version of it as well
but after testing...it was decided to make it 75mm wide to accept all belts becase they didnt see any real difference with the "big heavy pulley"
Yes changing crank pulleys can account for this super pulley being only one size. But from a boost tuning perspective........it is a limiting factor. Whether or not it "limits" someone's program is up to the end user.
but there are still plenty of crank cog choices(especially if you include Ford pulleys with an adapter plate that is made so you can bolt up ford pulleys to an Ls crank balancer
and if you really need something in a specific size to get where you want...you can always have one made...lots of people have it done
I agree......everything does eventually break. But we are not talking about everything. I doubt your gonna break a std pulley, while this pulley does have the opportunity to let you down.
a standard pulley is not likely to break... though they do get worn down as you throw belts...it might be a metal pulley, but you can still wear the teeth off of it and make a cog slip
I am not bashing this thing at all, just making those aware that it is not all pro's. There are some con's. How someone balances pro's and con's is up to the end user.
Different strokes for different folks.
Different strokes for different folks.
obviously I hit a nerve or something...LOL
sorry if I did...
but if you are going to say it sucks... you better have pretty well explained reasons...which you did not
and then you went back here and said you arent bashing it....but that is what you did by saying it sucks because 1..2..3..4... in your previous post
the ATI pulley Works for what it was designed for
its designed to help stop throwing belts when you peddle the car
its designed to help keep boost up some when you shift(assuming an automatic or not closing the throttle between shifts on a manual)