T56 engagement at the floor
#1
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T56 engagement at the floor
Details:
LS6/T56 swapped e36 BMW M3.
Spec Stage 3+ billet flywheel/pressure plate/clutch, shimmed
Wilwood 7/8" Compact Master (0 miles)
GM Slave Cylinder (~10k miles)
Tick Speed Bleeder
I've bench bled the master and put it in, adjusted it so it travels the FULL length of the master (1.12 inches). Bled the clutch until no air comes out of the lines/pedal pressure doesn't change. Clutch engages literally right off the floor or right as the piston comes off the back wall of the master. Pedal pressure is good, very stiff.
Anyone have ideas? I REALLY don't want to pull the trans to replace a slave with <10k miles. Is it possible there is air trapped in the slave that isn't bleeding out? The stock BMW clutch master is only 3/4" and everyone uses this with no problem. The 7/8" master I fitted should effectively raise the engagement, not lower it...
edit: guess i should mention this has happened on the initial install. It's not like I have been driving it and it suddenly happened.
LS6/T56 swapped e36 BMW M3.
Spec Stage 3+ billet flywheel/pressure plate/clutch, shimmed
Wilwood 7/8" Compact Master (0 miles)
GM Slave Cylinder (~10k miles)
Tick Speed Bleeder
I've bench bled the master and put it in, adjusted it so it travels the FULL length of the master (1.12 inches). Bled the clutch until no air comes out of the lines/pedal pressure doesn't change. Clutch engages literally right off the floor or right as the piston comes off the back wall of the master. Pedal pressure is good, very stiff.
Anyone have ideas? I REALLY don't want to pull the trans to replace a slave with <10k miles. Is it possible there is air trapped in the slave that isn't bleeding out? The stock BMW clutch master is only 3/4" and everyone uses this with no problem. The 7/8" master I fitted should effectively raise the engagement, not lower it...
edit: guess i should mention this has happened on the initial install. It's not like I have been driving it and it suddenly happened.
Last edited by sdobart; 12-04-2013 at 05:14 PM.
#5
...and after installing the shim you got within the measurements noted in the link in post # 2?
there are assorted shim thicknesses available.
assumeing the system is bleed correctly....sounds like you are not getting enough travel...which may be resolved with correct shim thickness.
I also have the compact Wilwood MC (came with my McLeod twin) and I had to bench bleed it first as "installed" position for MC (angle) did not allow all air to bleed out. The cap with the nipple to resovoir was not at the "high" point in it's installed position so air bubble sat above that point in installed position.
there are assorted shim thicknesses available.
assumeing the system is bleed correctly....sounds like you are not getting enough travel...which may be resolved with correct shim thickness.
I also have the compact Wilwood MC (came with my McLeod twin) and I had to bench bleed it first as "installed" position for MC (angle) did not allow all air to bleed out. The cap with the nipple to resovoir was not at the "high" point in it's installed position so air bubble sat above that point in installed position.
#6
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Engine/Trans/Clutch setup came out of my friends car. He originally installed the clutch and shimmed it to spec when it was in his car, pedal engaged properly. I bought the whole setup off him, rebuilt the motor, re-installed the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate. Didn't mess with the slave or trans, just bolted it back up and bled it. I'm going to mityvac it today and see if there's any more air in the system I guess.
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Rebuilt the master even though it was new, mityvac'd the living crap out of the system and the pedal is fixed. Thanks for the suggestions guys. Guess it just wasnt bled enough even though no air came out using the standard 2 man bleed procedure.