sam95transam

Hey guys,
I built a switch panel for my nitrous switches. I originally had them on the panel under the steering wheel but moved them to under the climate control, so I had to lengthen all the wires for the purge, heater and arm switches. The board is almost done and my heater and arm switches appear to be working just fine but I can't get the purge to work now. Purge is wired independent of the heater and arm switches. The switch is getting right at 12v, so it definitely has power.

I will say that when I was taking switches off/on for a bit the other day I had a memory lapse and forgot to unhook my battery. I'm at a loss, unless my solenoid is shorted out...

What do you guys think? Here is a diagram in case it helps.

bmd_CL

iTrader: (3)

It sounds to me like the solenoid took a ****. Honestly, if it was me I would put a relay on it. I know it's not a very big item and might not need it most of the time but could possibly save you a solenoid if something shorts.

sam95transam

Kinda what I figured. Guess I'll have to look into a replacement.

boostit5.3

iTrader: (3)

how big is the purge solenoid? it might need a relay in there thats how i had to run mine... might of burnt up the switch from too much current.

macca_779

You should always run a relay. It's way to much current to push through a switch running into the cabin

badbubba

Is there power coming out of the switch? As has been stated, use a relay, unless the switch has a current rating that exceeds the current draw of the solenoid. Iirc, the small purge solenoid I have draws around 3-4 amps. Jumper the switch and see if the solenoid activates.

sam95transam

When I get a new solenoid, I will definitely be using a relay. The kit was originally installed by a shop so I would've thought they'd have used one. I meant to mention earlier that I had an extra push button switch and it didn't work either.

Forgive me for my electrical ignorance, what exactly does this mean?

boostit5.3

iTrader: (3)

dont buy a new solenoid yet... just cut and strip the 2 wires coming out of yours (leave them long enough to re-attach) and run one to the positive terminal and one to negative and see if the solenoid clicks. if you dont hear anything its probably bad. its also possible some wiring could of burnt up and could be your problem, go right off the noid and see if its working or not.

badbubba

Basically, put the two wires at the switch together, by doing this, it eliminates the electrical contacts in the switch. If the solenoid activates, then the switch is bad and was probably under rated for the application. If the solenoid does not activate, check for voltage at the solenoid with a meter or test light. If 12 volts is present, then either the solenoid is faulty or there is a bad ground to the solenoid. You can test the solenoid as stated above, with applying 12 volts from the battery. Does your purge switch only have 2 wires? If it has 3, do not jumper the wires out, bc one of the wires will be a ground. You would need to identify the wires before jumping, you do not want to jumper to a ground, fuse would blow.

NitrousExpress

iTrader: (4)

Did you mean to take that wire off the button to a 12v? I just noticed that.... You can send the solenoid into us and we can diagnose. Does the solenoid smell burned when you put it up to your nose? If so, the magnet is probably melted....

-Garrett

v8sten

iTrader: (5)

If you wired it like this diagram it will never work. that is like taking both wires and attaching both of them to the (-) side of the battery. There has to be 1 positive and 1 negative, not 2 negatives.

NitrousExpress

iTrader: (4)

Good eye. I just noticed that in the diagram...

-Garrett

sam95transam

Yes...diagram FAIL.

Good news! I tested the solenoid tonight and it still works. So I guess the culprit is burnt wire somewhere? How would I be able to find it? I can post a diagram of an actual working setup tomorrow if needed

brandon@nitrousoutlet

iTrader: (2)

Yeah you're going to need power somewhere in that diagram. I cant see the solenoid being toasted since it was never powered. Is it actually wired like that or is it wired right? What type of purge is it?

NitrousExpress

iTrader: (4)

Awesome! I'm glad you were able to salvage the solenoid. Let me know if you need any other help!

-Garrett

v8sten

iTrader: (5)

Here is my wiring diagram of my setup

sam95transam

Ok, messed around with it a little tonight...

* Re-confirmed that the solenoid is still good condition - and it does still work when hooked directly to the battery.

*Checked connections to the ground at the switch as well as the connection to the battery on the driver's side - good there.

* Visually checked the wires and couldn't find anything burnt (thought I was using mostly black wire so it might've been hard to tell)

*If I hook my voltmeter up to the wires at the switch I'm getting power. However, if I jumper the wires, nothing happens.

WTF...I'm about to the point where I'm just going to re-wire the whole thing, but I don't want to do that and it still not work lol.

Could the wire be burnt at a section I can't see between the firewall and inside the dash? Seems kinda random, but I'm so stumped.

The only thing I can think of that is worth mentioning is that at one point tonight I pushed the button and it did click as if it were working but it wouldn't do it more than once. I have to jump my battery every day because its dead, so could it have something to do with my battery? I'm assuming not since I'm getting 12+ V.

boostit5.3

iTrader: (3)

use the wire that is already going to your purge to trigger a relay. then run a decent gauge wire with a fuse on it to the relay, then hook the + wire off your solenoid to the relay. i think the problem is all that wiring and the switch cant handle the amperage... with a relay it takes very little to kick it on. you might want to check what ever fuse it is your pulling the power for the purge from (if your not triggering it via ground) i had my purge hooked up kinda like yours and it kept popping one of my sensor fuses, then melted another one because it was too big. this can cause bigger problems need to get it right.

sam95transam

First off, Thanks everyone for all your help! I feel like that has become way more complicated for me than it should be haha.

Ok, picked up a relay this afternoon and a fuse holder (got the wrong one though )

Attached is my crude wiring diagram. I feel like that is too many grounds though. Obviously there is something wrong, what is it?

boostit5.3

iTrader: (3)

replace the ground with the question mark on terminal 85 with a 12volt power source and it will work. you can crimp it into the same connector you use to hook up the 12v to the relay just make you a little jumper.