LT1 Intake-to-SBC Distributor
#1
LT1 Intake-to-SBC Distributor
I am looking for someone that can modify an LT1 intake to use a small cap FAST Dual-Sync Distributor. Do any of you guys know of someone that has the capabilities to do this and an average cost some of you guys may have paid. I don't need anything else done besides the holes made for the dist and the mount added as I will be using this intake on an LT1 with FAST XFI 2.0.
Thanks, Brad
Thanks, Brad
#2
if your talking about a LT1 manifold with the rear hole for a distributor. GMPP makes one for LT1 and LT4, diffrent part #'s
they also make a plate that uses the 3 holes the Opti bolts to TC and has a timing tab on it
they also make a plate that uses the 3 holes the Opti bolts to TC and has a timing tab on it
#6
Isn't going to happen.
You would have to run a front mount distributor.
Have you ever looked at an LT1 intake?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...tor-drive-kits
EDIT:
You might be in luck.
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28...ke_conversion/
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...ls1/index.html
You would have to run a front mount distributor.
Have you ever looked at an LT1 intake?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...tor-drive-kits
EDIT:
You might be in luck.
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28...ke_conversion/
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...ls1/index.html
Last edited by F0x Slaughter; 01-21-2014 at 04:09 PM.
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#9
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (31)
There was a guy a few years back named John Milican that was converting Lt1 intakes for 3rd gen owners you may want to check www.thirdgen.org someone may be able to lead you in the area you need.
From what i have seen you will need an angled shim to weld onto the intake to get the proper angle for the distributor to seat properly any competent machine shop can handle this task.
From what i have seen you will need an angled shim to weld onto the intake to get the proper angle for the distributor to seat properly any competent machine shop can handle this task.
#11
9-Second Club
iTrader: (1)
If this is going into an F body, working on it will be fun. I have a Hogan sheet metal intake on mine, with the small MSD dist. If you ever need the dist back out, or intake off, it's a two guy job. The distributor won't come out. Only up a little. You have to hold the distributor as high as it will go (against the bottom of the cowel) and slide it forward and out together. Going back in, it's tough to not scrape the RTV bead off the rear end rail of the block. If you have a Jessel belt drive for the cam, you need to do what I should have done and buy Jessel's belt drive, front mounted dist to go with it.
I've had to tear it down at the race track. It's no picnic.
I've had to tear it down at the race track. It's no picnic.
#13
Yes, I need to put a FAST Dual-Sync SBC Distributor on an LT1. Actually from previous research I knew you guys would tell me to try thirdgen.org so I registered on there first and posted. So far nothing useful. I have one excellent reputation local lead but he dosen't know all the details to the modifications and I'm afraid is not gonna be comfortable doing it. I have already assumed that any time I will need to remove my intake or dist I will need to drop the k-member. I have done it so many times its like a walk in the park, although time consuming and hard on the back, lol.
This will be a roller rockers & aftermarket valve springs-only stock long block bolt on (& stall) car with a 200 dry shot progressively adjusted by XFI 2.0 to make the 10 bolt last into the mid 11s (I hope). Right now its heads and cam and runs really well except the opti missing and the horrible tune and rev limit of stock'ish PCM. I am specifially trying to beat a few forced induction Mustang owners that I work with at an "Employee drag race" at my local track with a stock long block LT1 with nitrous :-)
If I can't have this done (which I prefer for budget reasons) My plans are to run a FAST XIM with LS1-style coil packs (w/ FAST XFI 2.0), EFI Connections LS Coil Pack-to-LT1 coil brackets (or make them). an "MSD 1x Cam Sync Plug" shoved inside the opti or in the dist cover with an Opti block off plate (which ever is easiest basically) and FAST crank trigger for SBC w/ magnet free OEM Style Ford sensor. These 2 things will provide the cam and crank signals the XIM needs to see and also allow the XFI 2.0 to run in Sequential. Or I have the option to get EFI Connections cam and crank sensors (& a 96+ timing cover) and just plug-and-play with the FAST XIM.....but that is a very expensive option for me, the other (FAST options), not so much.
This will be a roller rockers & aftermarket valve springs-only stock long block bolt on (& stall) car with a 200 dry shot progressively adjusted by XFI 2.0 to make the 10 bolt last into the mid 11s (I hope). Right now its heads and cam and runs really well except the opti missing and the horrible tune and rev limit of stock'ish PCM. I am specifially trying to beat a few forced induction Mustang owners that I work with at an "Employee drag race" at my local track with a stock long block LT1 with nitrous :-)
If I can't have this done (which I prefer for budget reasons) My plans are to run a FAST XIM with LS1-style coil packs (w/ FAST XFI 2.0), EFI Connections LS Coil Pack-to-LT1 coil brackets (or make them). an "MSD 1x Cam Sync Plug" shoved inside the opti or in the dist cover with an Opti block off plate (which ever is easiest basically) and FAST crank trigger for SBC w/ magnet free OEM Style Ford sensor. These 2 things will provide the cam and crank signals the XIM needs to see and also allow the XFI 2.0 to run in Sequential. Or I have the option to get EFI Connections cam and crank sensors (& a 96+ timing cover) and just plug-and-play with the FAST XIM.....but that is a very expensive option for me, the other (FAST options), not so much.
Last edited by High-Ho-Silver; 01-22-2014 at 09:43 AM.
#14
9-Second Club
iTrader: (1)
I would skip the XIM box and LS1 coils. Stock Eliminator LS cars have the multiple coils because rules require it. I have never seen one in Comp Eliminator, where rules don't require them. They use a distributor and single coil. Eight coils, regardless of various people's theory, do not make more power. Save your money.
#15
Yeah it just seems like a bunch of extra work and complication for no gain. I need this car to be able to drive all over the US on road trips. Thats why i'm hoping for the rear mount dist to work out. With a stock motor and all my nitrous coming from one or 2 nozzles right in front of TB I should never have to remove intake (knock on wood). I assume I will be removing whole motor next...after I rod is stick out the side of it no doubt, LOL. Which I could even fix out of town by purchasing a stock LT1 from a local yard and a cherry picker and install it in the yards parking lot, ha.
#16
I could be wrong but I would imagine a carb lt1 manifold would give you the specs you would need. I have one laying around. Ill check and see if that area of the manifolds are the same.
#17
Yes an actual GMPP carb intake would be what I would perfer to have someone take the measurments off of. Because I have heard in the past that a SBC intake is slightly off in those areas. Does it matter? I don't know. But I want it to be as reliable as possible and removing the dist will be a pain in the butt if their are any problems.
#18
I have both stock and gmpp carb intakes on a shelf at a family members house I wont be able to get to it till websday. If no one else can step up before then ill do it then.
If u want to barrow the intake we can work something out
If u want to barrow the intake we can work something out