'70 Chevelle SS
06-01-2014, 11:27 PM
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'70 Chevelle SS Sorry, for the long rant…
I'm doing a full body off restomod on a '70 Chevelle SS that I've owned since '85. It's a real SS, but it was a race car when I bought it, and was already missing the original engine and trans. I have picked out 2 700+ HP BBC engines that are in my budget (forged engines for NOS), but since I've been down that road before and don't like the MPG, I would like to see what I can afford with a twin turbo LS build. I would consider a single turbo build if I could package it up like a GN\TTA.
The car already has a full modern front\rear suspension and front\rear disc brakes under it. The only original parts are the frame, cross member, spindle arms, steering box, and the front A arms. I actually prefer the original look of the stock A arms (although I'm thinking about doing them anyway since everything else has been changed and I know they help drastically). The car will wear factory paint in a 1" lowered stock stance, on a set of Centerlines, and have an original interior except for modern leather seats, and a few little things. I am most likely going with a Legend 5 speed (2.66 first) and a Strange 12 bolt between 3.07 and 3.55.
I've read so much on here, TC, YB, Lat-G, and other forums for about 4 months now that I'm just tired of it! I'm limited on budget due to the cost of everything else on this car, but don't even have a real number to throw out there at this point, but the BBC builds would set me back $8K-$10K. I would consider most anything LS, but it has to be a nice neat install or I'll do the BBC. In other words, I have no problem with $1000 headers if I can still afford the whole package, but I don't have to have them either. I would do manifolds, but only if they are really close to symmetrical like the 2010 Camaro for neat packaging. Now the car didn’t come with AC, and I wouldn’t add it with a BBC, but I will most likely add Vintage Air with an LS build using the Corvette accessory package.
What I've considered the most...
LY6 6.0L short block
ARP main studs
ARP rod bolts
ARP balancer bolt
New rings with correct gaps
New bearings
Rebalance
Custom HR cam and maybe new lifters
VVT conversion kit of course
Oil pan of some kind
Milodon oil pump
LY6 heads
LS9 head gaskets
ARP head studs
Correct valve springs for the cam
Or maybe just LSA heads?
Any intake (I like the Holley and the Edelbrock, but would prefer a stock car style intake if possible)
Holley HP FI
I would like to get around the 800 RWHP level on 93 octane at no more than 15 psi and this engine must last. This will be a street car for weekends, car shows, occasional drag strip use, and even a little daily driving to the office in nice weather. I will only run meth if I have to and might go for water to air intercooler. E85 is only a slight option since there is only one station 5 miles from my house and the next closest is 35+ miles and I don’t personally know of another.
I have an ’89 Turbo Trans Am running 28psi out of a Limit TA61 through an OEM stock V6 engine (plus only external bolts ons and valve springs). I’ve had the car for 14+ years, the engine has never been out of the car, and the heads were only off once in ’91 or ’92 for warranty head gaskets (long before I owned it). I have an Alky Control meth kit and run 93 octane, so I get boost and tuning fairly well.
So, questions…
Will the short block I listed above do the job? Is there a better combo aside from a forged bottom end? I want the opposite of my TTA, which means more cubes, better heads, better cam, and an overall better engine, so it takes less boost to get the power I want. I’ve been beating on a 28psi time bomb for a long time now lol!
Am I asking too much from stock LY6 heads? How long would the stock valves last? Am I better off with LY6 heads stock, or adding the Inconel exhaust valves and/or stainless intake valves, or just looking for LSA heads?
I see countless shops who offer forged short blocks or stockish short blocks with all new parts, but is there anybody offering rebuilt LY6 short blocks with parts like I listed above? Or is there a junk yard that will sell the LY6 as a long or short block? Or do I have to buy a whole engine to start with? Since I’m using a new trans and the Holley HP setup, I don’t want to buy a whole engine\trans\harness\PCM package like everybody I know around here has done.
I’ve learned a lot from my TTA over the years on fuel systems, although I’m open to any suggestions. I already have ½” stainless stock style feed and return lines and plan to run a stainless tank with a RobbMc pickup, some external pump (Aeromotive maybe), and whatever injector is required. I want a decent duty cycle at WOT without going to huge injectors.
Educate me…
I'm doing a full body off restomod on a '70 Chevelle SS that I've owned since '85. It's a real SS, but it was a race car when I bought it, and was already missing the original engine and trans. I have picked out 2 700+ HP BBC engines that are in my budget (forged engines for NOS), but since I've been down that road before and don't like the MPG, I would like to see what I can afford with a twin turbo LS build. I would consider a single turbo build if I could package it up like a GN\TTA.
The car already has a full modern front\rear suspension and front\rear disc brakes under it. The only original parts are the frame, cross member, spindle arms, steering box, and the front A arms. I actually prefer the original look of the stock A arms (although I'm thinking about doing them anyway since everything else has been changed and I know they help drastically). The car will wear factory paint in a 1" lowered stock stance, on a set of Centerlines, and have an original interior except for modern leather seats, and a few little things. I am most likely going with a Legend 5 speed (2.66 first) and a Strange 12 bolt between 3.07 and 3.55.
I've read so much on here, TC, YB, Lat-G, and other forums for about 4 months now that I'm just tired of it! I'm limited on budget due to the cost of everything else on this car, but don't even have a real number to throw out there at this point, but the BBC builds would set me back $8K-$10K. I would consider most anything LS, but it has to be a nice neat install or I'll do the BBC. In other words, I have no problem with $1000 headers if I can still afford the whole package, but I don't have to have them either. I would do manifolds, but only if they are really close to symmetrical like the 2010 Camaro for neat packaging. Now the car didn’t come with AC, and I wouldn’t add it with a BBC, but I will most likely add Vintage Air with an LS build using the Corvette accessory package.
What I've considered the most...
LY6 6.0L short block
ARP main studs
ARP rod bolts
ARP balancer bolt
New rings with correct gaps
New bearings
Rebalance
Custom HR cam and maybe new lifters
VVT conversion kit of course
Oil pan of some kind
Milodon oil pump
LY6 heads
LS9 head gaskets
ARP head studs
Correct valve springs for the cam
Or maybe just LSA heads?
Any intake (I like the Holley and the Edelbrock, but would prefer a stock car style intake if possible)
Holley HP FI
I would like to get around the 800 RWHP level on 93 octane at no more than 15 psi and this engine must last. This will be a street car for weekends, car shows, occasional drag strip use, and even a little daily driving to the office in nice weather. I will only run meth if I have to and might go for water to air intercooler. E85 is only a slight option since there is only one station 5 miles from my house and the next closest is 35+ miles and I don’t personally know of another.
I have an ’89 Turbo Trans Am running 28psi out of a Limit TA61 through an OEM stock V6 engine (plus only external bolts ons and valve springs). I’ve had the car for 14+ years, the engine has never been out of the car, and the heads were only off once in ’91 or ’92 for warranty head gaskets (long before I owned it). I have an Alky Control meth kit and run 93 octane, so I get boost and tuning fairly well.
So, questions…
Will the short block I listed above do the job? Is there a better combo aside from a forged bottom end? I want the opposite of my TTA, which means more cubes, better heads, better cam, and an overall better engine, so it takes less boost to get the power I want. I’ve been beating on a 28psi time bomb for a long time now lol!
Am I asking too much from stock LY6 heads? How long would the stock valves last? Am I better off with LY6 heads stock, or adding the Inconel exhaust valves and/or stainless intake valves, or just looking for LSA heads?
I see countless shops who offer forged short blocks or stockish short blocks with all new parts, but is there anybody offering rebuilt LY6 short blocks with parts like I listed above? Or is there a junk yard that will sell the LY6 as a long or short block? Or do I have to buy a whole engine to start with? Since I’m using a new trans and the Holley HP setup, I don’t want to buy a whole engine\trans\harness\PCM package like everybody I know around here has done.
I’ve learned a lot from my TTA over the years on fuel systems, although I’m open to any suggestions. I already have ½” stainless stock style feed and return lines and plan to run a stainless tank with a RobbMc pickup, some external pump (Aeromotive maybe), and whatever injector is required. I want a decent duty cycle at WOT without going to huge injectors.
Educate me…
06-02-2014, 10:57 AM
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Oh, I've watched your build and track times. Very impressive so far...
06-02-2014, 01:01 PM
#5
I thought maybe we were neighbors!
Not quite. :-)
I wish we had more E85. But just isn't the case and it just made a big price jump. Oh well.
I kept a spread sheet of costs and it totaled right around $10k. I'm sure a guy could trim money off that pretty easy. The only elaborate part was the turbo. I used the GM ECM, which sounds cheap until you buy the tuning software and consider the learning curve to tune it.
If you shop wisely, use one turbo, and do all your own work it's certainly cheaper than a 700 hp rat, will easily eclipse the rat power, and have wonderful street manners.
Cool project. I had a 70SS, really nice cars.
Ron
Not quite. :-)
I wish we had more E85. But just isn't the case and it just made a big price jump. Oh well.
I kept a spread sheet of costs and it totaled right around $10k. I'm sure a guy could trim money off that pretty easy. The only elaborate part was the turbo. I used the GM ECM, which sounds cheap until you buy the tuning software and consider the learning curve to tune it.
If you shop wisely, use one turbo, and do all your own work it's certainly cheaper than a 700 hp rat, will easily eclipse the rat power, and have wonderful street manners.
Cool project. I had a 70SS, really nice cars.
Ron