2000Trans_Am

Hey, guys I'm kind of a newbie here, and I did a quick search but couldn't find anything. Anyway I got my 2000 m6 trans am about a month ago, and my front two rotors are warped. I want to get a pretty good pair of rotors, and also some break pads, prefferably ones that don't dust like crazy. If you guys can recommend some to me, and how much they cost, I would appreciate it. This car is a daily driver, so I don't need any top of the line stuff, but I like to really get on the car ocasionally. Also the back two rotors and break pads are fine, but should I change them too. Thanks for any help you can give me.

VIP1

Here are some tips to a better search:
1. Click "Search"
2. Click "Advanced"
3. Type search criteria in the "Search by Key Word" box (in top left of page)
4. In the "Search in Forum(s)" box, click on "Handling & Braking" to highlight it
5. Click "Search Now"

Try these for search criteria:
* brakes
* rotor -or- rotors
* pads

Or you can do a "Search by User Name" (instead of "Search by Key Word") for myself (VIP1), mitchntx, or trackbird. You should find plenty of information.

Here are two to get you started:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=rotor
http://home.columbus.rr.com/trackbir...led_rotors.htm

ActionJack

Those links were nice but they seem to push you away from slotted and/or drilled rotors which is IMO one sided.

The Power Slot rotors are nice and for 120.00 each or 240.00 for the front it is not bad AND available through some of our sponsors. I had those on my 99' Firebird and I drove it aggressive with those rotors and Hawke pads for over 30,000 miles and no problems but it did feel like a better brake and so much so that with my 01' T/A I took the stock crap off the front immediately. Also, the stock rotors warped on the front of my 99' and then on the rear on my 01' and the 01' had recently had the front done when I bought it a year old.

I have the Irotor slotted/drill rotors (also one of our sponsor) on front and rear with the Hawke pads on my 01' and paid 159.00 per set plus 25.00 for a zinc coating. However when I e-mailed Irotors and asked for a discount since I am a LS1Tech memeber they gave me free delivery and saved on the zinc coating. I have over 7,000 on the rear and 2,000 on the front and no problems. Just a better stop in wet or dry.

I hope this helps...

Sneakyws6

I have the power slot rotor also, and have not had any problems from them as of yet with over 20000 miles on them already.

NOBR8KSS

iTrader: (12)

Brembo OEM replacement rotors from www.tirerack.com and Hawk HPS pads

Budget brake setup that will work better than stock.

If you want slots and holes or something....try www.irotors.com cuz I haven't heard any complaints about those...still use the Hawk HPS pads

2000Trans_Am

Thanks I appreciate the feedback.

Brandon_TA

iTrader: (1)

Go into the "Sponsor Special Section".
There are specials on pads & rotors in there.

absolut_speed

iTrader: (1)

As mentioned in the other forum, definitely type brake instead of break when searching. Secondly, unless fancy rotors do something for you appearance-wise, there's no performance justification for spending anymore than the cost of Brembo replacements. HPS pads will dust more than stock pads. Ceramic pads dust less than most and are fine for daily driving.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I am happy with the Hawk HPS pads. They dust a little more than stock, but the better braking performance more than makes up for it. I am also running power slots in the front. I'll probably go with the Brembos next.

VIP1

I'll second that.
Slotted/Drilled are fine but unnecessary (I am considering a set from iRotor for appearance and because my stock ones are warped). Generall, more expensive pads will do more for stopping than more expensive rotors.

BTA 123

EBC Green Stuff pads and Power Slot rotors. I can't complain about mine, good stuff.

ActionJack

Quote from Baer brakes


What are the benefits to Crossdrilling, Slotting, and Zinc-Washing my rotors?
In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as “green pad fade” or “outgassing”. When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting!

However, with today’s race pad technology, ‘outgassing’ is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra-high performance road pads, look for the phrases, “dynamic surface treatment”, “race ready”, and/or, “pre-burnished”. When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with ‘outgassing’. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit ‘outgassing’, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack.

Although crossdrilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs.

Crossdrilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential “stress risers” from which cracks can occur. Baer’s rotors are cast with crossdrilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings.

Zinc washing is then done to provide a barrier, which resists development of surface scales or rust.

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

slotted/drilled are for appearance, plain and simple. with drilled rotors and aggressive driving/braking....cracks will eventually develop. so far i haven't heard anything bad about the irotors if you ARE going for slotted/drilled. i think i'll just be going with brembo replacements tho. i'd only use slotted/drilled if it was a show-only car. i'd rather be able to stop on a dime then get compliments. my car, while looking quite nice to begin with....is being built to go fast, not look oh so pretty.

ricethis98

EBC Green Stuff pads and cross drilled and slotted rotors. Zero dust, stop amazing compared to shitty stock...........

Krab

iTrader: (28)

You could just get yourself a set of Autozone rotors for the front (~$35 each) and a set of O'Rielly's quiet stop pads (~$25) and be good to go for about $100 total. I have this combo on my car and it's been working just fine with minimal dust. I don't autocross or anything, but you said your car was a daily driver so...

PREDATOR-Z

Power Slot/Hawk/Earl lines
Awsome for daily ops.

Powerslot uses Baer or Brembo casts i believe.
Thunder has an all around package for $589.99 (That's where I got mine)

2000Trans_Am

Thanks for all the feedback I appreciate it.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

Brembo Blanks, and OEM pads for less dust.

BlackHawk131

iTrader: (31)

I don't drive mine everyday but I have the EBC which are slotted and dimpled with hawk pads and they work great. They dust alot, but will stop. I don't believe that pads made the car stop better. I think the rotors played a role for sure. The 2 things I noticed(and I have had 2 LS1's) is that I had almost no warping(yes I drive hard and race often) over stock and I can stop much better from 120 down where stock was best about 100 down.

I can not argue that slotted or drilled does anything, but I know that the rotors have to work with the pads. Warping is a big concern with me along with brake fade and they both were gone with the EBC rotors and hawk pads. In fact, the car is down till I get new pads. Just had the EBC turned today.

ActionJack

You had them turned? I was just gonna replace my rotors to have the extra meat and I am not confident on them being turned and was not sure they could be turned???