ARP rod bolts on stock engine? Good/bad? help.
#1
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ARP rod bolts on stock engine? Good/bad? help.
My engine sees past 6500 on a regular basis. I know it's a matter of time before it pops but do you think changing the rod bolts to ARP's would help prolong it's life some?
2000 T/A
232/236 .585/.585 XE-R 113
1-7/8 grott long tubes
LS6 intake and other minor bolt ons...
hope that helps. any ideas suggestions would be appreciated. Also the kemember will be off the car(for other reasons) which is the reason I can do this as a quickly.
Also any special measurements i need to do this(other than the tq specs)?? or do i just take out the old bolts, clean the threads, add locktite and put in the ARPs and tighten??
thanx
2000 T/A
232/236 .585/.585 XE-R 113
1-7/8 grott long tubes
LS6 intake and other minor bolt ons...
hope that helps. any ideas suggestions would be appreciated. Also the kemember will be off the car(for other reasons) which is the reason I can do this as a quickly.
Also any special measurements i need to do this(other than the tq specs)?? or do i just take out the old bolts, clean the threads, add locktite and put in the ARPs and tighten??
thanx
#2
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I think it'd help.. I have them, and I've been to 6800 about 25 times, and to 7000 once or twice (missed gear). If my motor is still together this time next year, I'll know for sure.. lol
Peace,
Josh
Peace,
Josh
#4
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Try to do one rod at a time. If you can, do not remove the rod cap off the crank (as the bearing has already seated itself and it is better to leave it the way it is)
If you feel like it replace the crank main bolts too (Not really necessary though)
The rest is like you said, just follow the ARP bolt torq specs.
PS: To clean the bolt hole treads you can groove grind one of your old bolts like we do with a head bolt when we do head change or what I used before was a 22 caliber rifle wire brush as it goes in there easy but tight and is not a pain the rotate around and cleans extremely well.
If you feel like it replace the crank main bolts too (Not really necessary though)
The rest is like you said, just follow the ARP bolt torq specs.
PS: To clean the bolt hole treads you can groove grind one of your old bolts like we do with a head bolt when we do head change or what I used before was a 22 caliber rifle wire brush as it goes in there easy but tight and is not a pain the rotate around and cleans extremely well.
Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; 07-24-2004 at 02:55 AM.
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It is a good idea if you are trying to push 500+HP but if not leave it alone. My shop car has seen 416rwhp for over 15000 miles and sees 6800 daily it is still just fine. The LS1 motor can handle more than you think.
Also by any means DO NOT replace the main studs while at it. Every motor we have built and added main studs has needed a line hone to be straight.
Nate
Also by any means DO NOT replace the main studs while at it. Every motor we have built and added main studs has needed a line hone to be straight.
Nate
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Originally Posted by Nasty N8
It is a good idea if you are trying to push 500+HP but if not leave it alone. My shop car has seen 416rwhp for over 15000 miles and sees 6800 daily it is still just fine. The LS1 motor can handle more than you think.
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I plan to do mine some day, I see 7000 RPM every once in a while, depends on my mood and how the car is running, just sometimes it seems pissed off and runs weird.... maybe it's just me, I don't know. But my motor has held together fine, 85k miles on a '99 LS1. But I plan to add nitrous to the car come winter, so the rod bolts may come to worry me, so I plan to change them, seeing 500+ RWHP up to 7000 RPM may give them a workout
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#9
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Futral Motorsports install price was very reasonable IMO, so I paid them to do the install. Much rather have somebody experienced do it than I. I'd give them a call and see what they'll do for ya if your thinking about it seriously.
Took my car to 7k again today, and to 6500 several times.
Peace,
Josh
Took my car to 7k again today, and to 6500 several times.
Peace,
Josh
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well i will be doing it myself. I have a full shop to my disposal. I just wanted to know they do's an dont's. Nothing other than rod bolts would be touched. so i can see do them one at a time, clean with .22 rifle brush. Sounds like a plan. I like living in the high RPM's so i need the help i can get.
#11
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definately worth it. i am going to go with a set this winter when it cools down. my SHIFT POINT in my automatic is 6800 rpms and have around 200 passes on this setup and countless "spirited" driving times on the street. being an automatic, i cant short shift. i know i am on borrowed time but it IS fun to live at that rpm.
#12
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Originally Posted by Nasty N8
Also by any means DO NOT replace the main studs while at it. Every motor we have built and added main studs has needed a line hone to be straight.
Nate
#14
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Originally Posted by Damian
Studs are good insurance. I have them in my motor, pull to 7K daily..
INSTALL THEM ONE AT A TIME
INSTALL THEM ONE AT A TIME