Input needed on a poor performing heads cam combo, Help please!
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Input needed on a poor performing heads cam combo, Help please!
Hey guys,
I am in need of some serious help here. I just did a bunch or work to my 99 camaro and it seems to have some pretty chitty performance.
This car has seem to have had problems for some time prior to the heads and cam swap this car ran a best of 13.20 (m6) at 105 mph with macs.
Now the car has
Patriot performance ls6 stage two heads
comp cam with 230/227 .592/571 112+4
mac mid mids with off road y pipe
slp lid
ls6 intake
Stock Throttle body
stock injectors
stock rockers
ram clutch
moser 12 bolt with 4.10 gears
spohn arm and lower control arms
slp oil pump
Nitto's
msd plug wires and ngk plugs
Flowmaster muffler inplace of the stock unit
I took the car to the track last night and ran it several times With a best of 12.62 at 110mph with a 1.88 60, Shifting at 6500 This seems like a stock cars mph and times can anyone help me with any suggestiong as to why this unit performs so poorly.
The car was dyno tunned right after the heads and cam swap, but it did not have the clutch, ls6 intake and was running through a stock rear muffler.
It only put down 363.8hp and 356.6 torque While this was low I figured It might wake up with the new exhaust and intake.
I am really boggled as to why this unit runs so poorly and has such a low mph. The car has a very noticable tick noise after warm up and sounds like a sewing maching. Guys any insight would be great and thanks again for reading this.
Elec
I am in need of some serious help here. I just did a bunch or work to my 99 camaro and it seems to have some pretty chitty performance.
This car has seem to have had problems for some time prior to the heads and cam swap this car ran a best of 13.20 (m6) at 105 mph with macs.
Now the car has
Patriot performance ls6 stage two heads
comp cam with 230/227 .592/571 112+4
mac mid mids with off road y pipe
slp lid
ls6 intake
Stock Throttle body
stock injectors
stock rockers
ram clutch
moser 12 bolt with 4.10 gears
spohn arm and lower control arms
slp oil pump
Nitto's
msd plug wires and ngk plugs
Flowmaster muffler inplace of the stock unit
I took the car to the track last night and ran it several times With a best of 12.62 at 110mph with a 1.88 60, Shifting at 6500 This seems like a stock cars mph and times can anyone help me with any suggestiong as to why this unit performs so poorly.
The car was dyno tunned right after the heads and cam swap, but it did not have the clutch, ls6 intake and was running through a stock rear muffler.
It only put down 363.8hp and 356.6 torque While this was low I figured It might wake up with the new exhaust and intake.
I am really boggled as to why this unit runs so poorly and has such a low mph. The car has a very noticable tick noise after warm up and sounds like a sewing maching. Guys any insight would be great and thanks again for reading this.
Elec
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thats a big cam for macs, you'll benefit from longtubes. the flowmaster doesn't add that much over the stock muffler, I'd say either get a cutout or a full catback. then add an underdrive pulley, ported TB, go back and redyno and adjust A/F if necessary. that should bring you close to your expectations.
As for the ticking/sewing machine noise, i would check the preload out andmake sure its within spec.
As for the ticking/sewing machine noise, i would check the preload out andmake sure its within spec.
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Macs are fine if ported correctly and the ***** cut off and collectors added.
**Personal opinion**
Remove the flowbastard, Port the Mac's or get a set of LT's and get it tuned again.
Dale
**Personal opinion**
Remove the flowbastard, Port the Mac's or get a set of LT's and get it tuned again.
Dale
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With that reverse split cam your exhaust is REALLY hurting you. Btw, I tried a reverse split with a set LS6 styles like you are running and didn't have very good luck with it. I gained alot by going back to a traditional split.
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what did the car dyno before these mods???
adding the ls6 intake and Flowmaster will change the tune the flowmaster is not known for being a good flowing piece on f bodys
i would add a ported TB and a crank pulley and go redyno and go from there
also if the valve train noise seems excessive i would recomend looking into that issue first, do you have the correct length pushrods for that set up?
adding the ls6 intake and Flowmaster will change the tune the flowmaster is not known for being a good flowing piece on f bodys
i would add a ported TB and a crank pulley and go redyno and go from there
also if the valve train noise seems excessive i would recomend looking into that issue first, do you have the correct length pushrods for that set up?
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Originally Posted by gomer
With that reverse split cam your exhaust is REALLY hurting you. Btw, I tried a reverse split with a set LS6 styles like you are running and didn't have very good luck with it. I gained alot by going back to a traditional split.
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The cam and head package was selected and installed by a very reputible shop. I Did not use a flowmaster catback just a muffler in place of the stock unit with single in single out.
I had the macs at the time so they were used. The pushrods were also installed by the same shop and they seem to have alot of fast cars So I think they should of gotten that correct since they work mainly on ls1 based units. I did not do any dyno numbers prior and wish I had. I am still so Lost thanks again for any input.
Elec
I had the macs at the time so they were used. The pushrods were also installed by the same shop and they seem to have alot of fast cars So I think they should of gotten that correct since they work mainly on ls1 based units. I did not do any dyno numbers prior and wish I had. I am still so Lost thanks again for any input.
Elec
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Originally Posted by Elec87
The cam and head package was selected and installed by a very reputible shop. I Did not use a flowmaster catback just a muffler in place of the stock unit with single in single out.
I had the macs at the time so they were used. The pushrods were also installed by the same shop and they seem to have alot of fast cars So I think they should of gotten that correct since they work mainly on ls1 based units. I did not do any dyno numbers prior and wish I had. I am still so Lost thanks again for any input.
Elec
I had the macs at the time so they were used. The pushrods were also installed by the same shop and they seem to have alot of fast cars So I think they should of gotten that correct since they work mainly on ls1 based units. I did not do any dyno numbers prior and wish I had. I am still so Lost thanks again for any input.
Elec
#10
here is some information on those heads.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=901796
There is a ton more of information if you really look.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=901796
There is a ton more of information if you really look.
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There is nothing wrong with your macs, 01-z and I picked up nothing switching to a long tube. Do you have a LS6 intake? A pulley will help as will a cut out, and Flowmasters are not much better than stock. Also what was your A/F? Timing? gas used? Weight of the car with driver?
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Originally Posted by ONEBADWS6
There is nothing wrong with your macs, 01-z and I picked up nothing switching to a long tube. Do you have a LS6 intake? A pulley will help as will a cut out, and Flowmasters are not much better than stock. Also what was your A/F? Timing? gas used? Weight of the car with driver?
I have no idea what those specs were, I only got a dyno sheet not that I really would of understood what it was saying anyways. I was told that the a/f was correct.
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I took the car out today with a scanner on it, I noticed that the car under wot has anywhere from 19 to 25 degrees of timming and this seems low to me can any of you fill me in on a normal amount of timming one of these cars has during wot? thanks
Elec
Elec
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Originally Posted by ONEBADWS6
There is nothing wrong with your macs, 01-z and I picked up nothing switching to a long tube. Do you have a LS6 intake? A pulley will help as will a cut out, and Flowmasters are not much better than stock. Also what was your A/F? Timing? gas used? Weight of the car with driver?
How can I get my A/F info without an laptop and LS1 edit. I have access to a scan tool with that pull that info? I have to send my puter back to tune for a couple things and he asked what the a/f was.
I have no idea...
#17
hey, it doesn't happen to be a hugger orange ss that goes to cordova dragway here in il ?....maybe you might have some knock sensors pulling some timing for some reason...can you scan to see if how much knock retard is showing.....as far as timing goes....that seems a little low maybe some tuners on here can confirm that for ya.....
#18
Originally Posted by Elec87
I took the car out today with a scanner on it, I noticed that the car under wot has anywhere from 19 to 25 degrees of timming and this seems low to me can any of you fill me in on a normal amount of timming one of these cars has during wot? thanks
Elec
Elec
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Someone is on to you Elec......
I'd say buy a set of Jet-hot long tubes, with Off-road pipe. and then take it up to Aforementioned shop and have it redyno'd/tuned, and see where your at.......someone else might be able to get it to run 118MPH i doubt it but, hard to say....Other than that i dont know what else to tell you....
Andy
I'd say buy a set of Jet-hot long tubes, with Off-road pipe. and then take it up to Aforementioned shop and have it redyno'd/tuned, and see where your at.......someone else might be able to get it to run 118MPH i doubt it but, hard to say....Other than that i dont know what else to tell you....
Andy
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Originally Posted by BAM-BAM
hey, it doesn't happen to be a hugger orange ss that goes to cordova dragway here in il ?....maybe you might have some knock sensors pulling some timing for some reason...can you scan to see if how much knock retard is showing.....as far as timing goes....that seems a little low maybe some tuners on here can confirm that for ya.....
Maybe it is.
I did run it down the road with a copilot and it had no knock retard going on at all but timing seemed to go lower dependent on throttle positon usually around 25 degrees or so.