Mild Steel VS Cromoly cage
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Mild Steel VS Cromoly cage
How big is the difference between Cromoly and mild steel cages? Is it worth the extra money?
My car is pretty much stripped right now so now is the time to put the cage in, but funds are short, im not sure if I should delay my project 2 weeks and get a Cromoly cage or just get the mild steel one and stay on track?
My car is pretty much stripped right now so now is the time to put the cage in, but funds are short, im not sure if I should delay my project 2 weeks and get a Cromoly cage or just get the mild steel one and stay on track?
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hey man...
most including myself will tell you that any chance you get to save weight on a permanent basis of a mandatory item is a plus. without a doubt, spend the extra dough to get what's the best. it seems by your buildup that that's what you're doing already, so why skimp now? actually, i'm rather surprised to even see you asking such a question, and doubt i'm alone on that one....lol. anyway, according to Wolfe Racecraft's website, the weight difference on a 10pt. m/s vs. c/m is around 40-45 lbs. now i'm sure you, like me, are not going to stop at just a 10pt. cage. i personally will have the cage coming through the firewall to the back of the shock tower, and then from the front of it to the radiator core support. there will also likely be other bars in the interior as well. now, i'm guessing that if you're going with a twin 70mm 408 setup, you're going for 7's in the 1/4 mile. if that's the case, or at least anything faster than 8.50, you're now required to have a full funnycar cage and you may end up realizing a 100lb. weight savings overall! and that, is worth it. think about how much is spent on other weight savers....tires, rims, hood, battery, k-member, a-arms, etc. etc. etc. and the list goes on.
now, you are going for times below 8.5 right? if not those turbos are without a doubt.......OVERKILL!!! so my final vote is, get the full C/M funnycar cage. you wont regret it and if you ever need/want to sell the car, it will be a HUGE plus. so i hope that helps. sorry if i was a bit long winded.
later,
Dave
most including myself will tell you that any chance you get to save weight on a permanent basis of a mandatory item is a plus. without a doubt, spend the extra dough to get what's the best. it seems by your buildup that that's what you're doing already, so why skimp now? actually, i'm rather surprised to even see you asking such a question, and doubt i'm alone on that one....lol. anyway, according to Wolfe Racecraft's website, the weight difference on a 10pt. m/s vs. c/m is around 40-45 lbs. now i'm sure you, like me, are not going to stop at just a 10pt. cage. i personally will have the cage coming through the firewall to the back of the shock tower, and then from the front of it to the radiator core support. there will also likely be other bars in the interior as well. now, i'm guessing that if you're going with a twin 70mm 408 setup, you're going for 7's in the 1/4 mile. if that's the case, or at least anything faster than 8.50, you're now required to have a full funnycar cage and you may end up realizing a 100lb. weight savings overall! and that, is worth it. think about how much is spent on other weight savers....tires, rims, hood, battery, k-member, a-arms, etc. etc. etc. and the list goes on.
now, you are going for times below 8.5 right? if not those turbos are without a doubt.......OVERKILL!!! so my final vote is, get the full C/M funnycar cage. you wont regret it and if you ever need/want to sell the car, it will be a HUGE plus. so i hope that helps. sorry if i was a bit long winded.
later,
Dave
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Yeah, I had considered back halfing the car, infact I really would love to back half it but that is a huge project (next winter).
So, it looks like I'll be going CM for now
So, it looks like I'll be going CM for now
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Im backhalving mine right now its about 75% done its a full 14pt 4130 funny car cage. The whole cage and rear housing weighed in at 332lbs. I cut about 270lbs worth of floor and rear section out of my car. 2 people can pick the whole car up less motor, front suspension, interior, and rear end. It should have a 2550 raceweight with me in it. So yea its definatally worth the money. Also weight saveings. Lil expensivse at 6.00 a foot but in the end well worth it.
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I have CM, one thing to remember CM has to be tigged in, Mild steel can be welded with a mig. If you dont weld your own stuff in Tig welding is EXPENSIVE, before I got my tig I was getting quotes of about 1000.00 to tig in the 10pt cage if I brought them the cage, and the car was completly stripped.