Cam swap oil question
#1
Cam swap oil question
So I've read a few install guides for cam swaps, and I get the impression that you change the oil with the swap (of course) and then again after a hundred miles or so.
...I also get the impression that most people here use ~$50 worth of synthetic oils for every oil change. (I know I do) Those who have swapped cams, did you just bite the bullet and pay $100 for oil changes? What is the standard operating procedure here?
...I also get the impression that most people here use ~$50 worth of synthetic oils for every oil change. (I know I do) Those who have swapped cams, did you just bite the bullet and pay $100 for oil changes? What is the standard operating procedure here?
#2
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i just completed a h/c swap on my 04 C5 A4 with pp ls6 style heads, 2.055 intakes, ati damper, crane billet dual chain kit, 1.8 crane rocker and spring kit, ti retainers, dynatech ss header kit, magnaflow ss exhaust, tuned with VHP tuner. i had about 2900 miles on the car, 900 on Mobil 1 10w-30, changed when I put about 50 miles on the swap. used euro Mobil 0w-40, did not like results, changed back to 10w-30 and put used only 10 miles euro oil in my son's 180,000 mile pontiac grand prix. recommend you do the install, run it for a hundred miles or more, then change it.
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i only had 500 miles on my synthetic so i just left it in there, i dont see why people would change it twice. no coolant gets in the oil and if your clean u shouldn't have any problems. normally people will change the oil after cam break in on a flat-tappet cam. i see no need to on a roller cam. jmo
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u wont wreck your car, theres a oil filter on there for a reason
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Originally Posted by 68birdls1
well why not take the extra precautions and change the oil after 100 miles?!? i mean do what some others have said and put some cheap ole dyno oil in there, drive it a bit then go back to your regular stuff!
#10
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I didn't have alot of miles on my oil when I did my swap on my pewter car, so I did the swap, drove it for a few weeks (weekend car only) then changed it before I headed to the dyno for the tuning. IMHO it's better to NOT change the oil during the swap, cause it will have oil pressure immediately when you start it, unlike if you had drained the oil and installed a new filter. To each his own, but that's my outlook on it.
#11
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most people change the oil pumps...unless it is 01-02..seeing that he has a 99 he will probably upgrade and if he doesn't he should have...so you need to change the oil then...however...i'd just use cheap stuff during the change/break in period...then switch back after 100 miles....better safe than sorry
#12
Originally Posted by 777
most people change the oil pumps...unless it is 01-02..seeing that he has a 99 he will probably upgrade and if he doesn't he should have...so you need to change the oil then...however...i'd just use cheap stuff during the change/break in period...then switch back after 100 miles....better safe than sorry
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I doubt there will be any negative side affects of running the dino oil for the break-in period, then switching back to the synthetic. I did this, and haven't had any problems in the last 15K miles or so. I just used Castrol 10w30 oil, and then switched back to the german made castrol.
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Not a damn thing wrong with cheap dino oil to break in new engine components . Jeff Creech @ CAM recommended me to use dino oil in my new motor until the break in period was over . I have always done this to Gen 1 SBCs and now will be doing this to my LS1s . No reason to fork over the big bucks just to drain it out in 100 miles .
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Originally Posted by Phil'sC5vette
How much oil drips out of the car during a cam change when the oil pump is replaced along with the cam? any, none, 1/2 a quart.
very little if any, when u lower the pan u will loose some though