does pulling the heads make a cam swap easier? shouldn't i just pull motor?
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does pulling the heads make a cam swap easier? any info on cleaning/home porting hds
im swapping in a f13, im ready to order it tommorow, im going to go ahead and start tearing the motor down soon.. where should i stop? dad thinks it will be easier and worth while to pull the heads and take a peak at the pistons and clean up the heads ect a lil bit. he wants to go ahead and take out the lifters everyone loses when they swap cams... not sure if this is a good idea or bad idea..
now im thinking if we go this far, shouldnt' we go ahead and pull the motor and spend another 600$ for some new pistons and rings? we have the engine puller and stand lol... what do u guys think? how far should i tear it down and wait to race again and will it be worth it? i order my first cam tommorow and now we wanna new bottom end as well lol.
now can someone recommend me or tell me a lil something about what they did when they tore there motor down????? i know im getting the f13 with dual springs and all teh goodies... dad wants to clean up the heads, should we buy a set of manely valves? if i just get pistons/rings and rod bolts, do i need to get any other new stuff, or can the machine shop put it back together with just that?
now im thinking if we go this far, shouldnt' we go ahead and pull the motor and spend another 600$ for some new pistons and rings? we have the engine puller and stand lol... what do u guys think? how far should i tear it down and wait to race again and will it be worth it? i order my first cam tommorow and now we wanna new bottom end as well lol.
now can someone recommend me or tell me a lil something about what they did when they tore there motor down????? i know im getting the f13 with dual springs and all teh goodies... dad wants to clean up the heads, should we buy a set of manely valves? if i just get pistons/rings and rod bolts, do i need to get any other new stuff, or can the machine shop put it back together with just that?
Last edited by LS1_PNYTAMR; 02-27-2005 at 10:19 PM.
#4
Originally Posted by LS1_PNYTAMR
lol.. anyone got a pic of a pen mag so i know what to buy? my dad said something about cleaning of the intake and exhuast valves or something.. what was he thinking?
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http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
I wouldn't use pen magnets or the jpr tool, get some 5/16 stock from home depot. I see you have a 2002 so you may have to grind a flat spot on one of the rods, I'm not sure for which side though. No need to pull the heads unless you've got tons of miles.
I wouldn't use pen magnets or the jpr tool, get some 5/16 stock from home depot. I see you have a 2002 so you may have to grind a flat spot on one of the rods, I'm not sure for which side though. No need to pull the heads unless you've got tons of miles.
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buy some 7/16" dowel rods from home depot....cut them 3" longer than the cam itself...spin the cam around several times when you get the motor tore down to it and insert the two rods on either side of the cam until it hits the back of the block...slide out the old cam and put in the new one
LS1howto.com has all the info on a camswap
LS1howto.com has all the info on a camswap
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Dont have a pic just go to autozone they look like a radio anttena with a magnet on the end or just ask for pen magnets you need 16 of them. It isnt a bad idea to clean the carbon off the valves but I dont think its worth pullin the heads just for that reason.
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he has a billion grinding tools, i think he wants to do a lil port work, what do we need to know or read before hand.. can anything be gained, 10-15 hp outta a port and polish, he siad something about he can do a 3 angle valve job on them atleast? 241 casting heads.
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is there a write up on any of it anywhere? id love to find someone around the sc/nc area taht could do it fairly cheap but done right.. im not looking for much, but just a lil extra while im in there.
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There are tons of write ups on here about a hand port, just do a search for "home hand port" and you will get a lot of usefull threads. Don't get the new valves, that is an extra $200 and then you would nneed machining on the heads to put them in, if you were going to spend that money you might as well just get new pro ported heads. You will need springs also, the patriot gold springs are good and would be great for that cam. Do not use pen magnets, more expense with them than the alum rods from home depot some guys have been talking about, and they will do a MUCH better job than the pen magnets. Taking the heads off and home porting them is basically something you will need to decide on yourself, you can get some nice gains from just a simple port on the stock heads if you really have the time to do it and take everything apart. As for getting new pistons or rod bolts, if you just want to take the motor out and have a project I would vote on getting new rod bolts and a k-member instead of pistons, the stockers are fine but the stronger rod bolts would be a nice addition and the light k-member would be a perfect swap while the motor is out.
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I pulled my heads to clean em up when i did my cam...as long as you don't go crazy you can pick up some nice gains. Even if i only gained 8-10 hp by homeporting, it's still free horsepower. If you already have the tools just do it.
I would look to buy a set of ls6 valves or Manley 2.02 1.57's while you're at it. Stock seats are good for up to a 2.04 intake. But going up in valve size is going to take away a lot of p-v clearance especially with something like the f13. You'll probably have to flycut. Just clay it up to be sure before you put it back together.
Oh and btw the valves already come 3 angled from the factory.
Nate
I would look to buy a set of ls6 valves or Manley 2.02 1.57's while you're at it. Stock seats are good for up to a 2.04 intake. But going up in valve size is going to take away a lot of p-v clearance especially with something like the f13. You'll probably have to flycut. Just clay it up to be sure before you put it back together.
Oh and btw the valves already come 3 angled from the factory.
Nate
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okay, so are u saying not to port the heads a lil bit b/c i will need to fly cut? i thought that was a concern with milling the heads
yes i realize i will need new springs lol, im not quite that new.
and to teh person who said the stock pistons are fine.. yes prolly so for cam only, but if i put down 375rwhp with all these mods, then when i spray the 150 shot, tnt kit, thats going to be a good bit, and some forged pistons if anything would be added security...
yes i realize i will need new springs lol, im not quite that new.
and to teh person who said the stock pistons are fine.. yes prolly so for cam only, but if i put down 375rwhp with all these mods, then when i spray the 150 shot, tnt kit, thats going to be a good bit, and some forged pistons if anything would be added security...
#15
how bout since you don't need to take the heads off to do a cam swap, do the cam swap, takes a couple hours, and run it like that for a while.... and then if you think that's not enough power then go ahead with portin the heads and worry bout pistons, etc ... cam and 150shot does not require new pistons/rods, there's ls1's out there with heads/cam and 200shot doin just fine on the stock bottom end ... if you want added security i'd just do the rod bolts and be done with it
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Originally Posted by madpwr1
how bout since you don't need to take the heads off to do a cam swap, do the cam swap, takes a couple hours, and run it like that for a while.... and then if you think that's not enough power then go ahead with portin the heads and worry bout pistons, etc ... cam and 150shot does not require new pistons/rods, there's ls1's out there with heads/cam and 200shot doin just fine on the stock bottom end ... if you want added security i'd just do the rod bolts and be done with it
yep, the stock pistons are not the weak link when running high horsepower even with nitrous, you will break the rod bolts before you blow up a piston. As for getting new valves, the stock seats might be good up to 2.04 but why would you do it? The benifit of getting larger valves is to open up the bowls so you get more air flow, a larger valve with a stock size valve seat would be pointless. Basically it comes down to how far you want to go while doing the cam swap, you could turn it into something ridiculous, but hey it is up to you. If you take off the heads, port them, if you take out the motor swap rod bolts and a k-member, if you want to spend more money. If not just get some alum rods at the depot to hold up the lifters and do a cam swap only.