gear swap...carrier and pinion bearings replacement?
03-09-2005, 09:46 AM
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gear swap...carrier and pinion bearings replacement? When you swap rear end gears, is it a must that one replaces the carrier and pinion bearings during the process?
thanks,
Paul
thanks,
Paul
03-09-2005, 11:12 AM
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I don't think it's a "must", but the Ratech top of the line kit
that replaces everything in the rear end, is only like a hundred
bucks? Relative to the other expenses it's a "why not?" sort
of proposition. I'm also real happy with the way the Ratech
hard pinion spacer setup turned out. Consider that if you
think the 10-bolt will live; this makes the pinion bearing space
not slowly crush down (out) over time and loosen up. A little
more work to set up but you can save the shims and take
another crack it it if you get it wrong, unlike an overtightened
crush collar.
that replaces everything in the rear end, is only like a hundred
bucks? Relative to the other expenses it's a "why not?" sort
of proposition. I'm also real happy with the way the Ratech
hard pinion spacer setup turned out. Consider that if you
think the 10-bolt will live; this makes the pinion bearing space
not slowly crush down (out) over time and loosen up. A little
more work to set up but you can save the shims and take
another crack it it if you get it wrong, unlike an overtightened
crush collar.
03-09-2005, 01:59 PM
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Like everyone else suggests, it's a matter of how much work you want to do--more work means more assurance that everything will be right. . .if everything is done right.
Level 1: You could easily get away with just using the same bearings if everything was fine before--just don't damage anything while taking it out or putting it back. The nice thing about doing this is you can probably get away with doing the least amount of cleaning inside the casing.
Level 2: Some believe that removing the pinion can damage the pinion bearings. Understandable on the tail bearing if it gets missaligned when you hammer it out; guess it depends on how you remove the head pinion bearing as to how much damage you might do to it. So another level of comfort is reached by replacing these bearings during the install. Doing it this way has the benefit of converting the original tail pinion bearing into a setup bearing (most just use a dremel or drill with a grinding wheel to remove a couple thousands from the inside) and save even more wear on the new tail pinion bearing as you play with the gear setup. Again, you can probably get away with not cleaning the carrier case as much. If there is a downfall, it is that bearings and races mesh together in terms of wear pattern, and the new bearing may not mate the old race very well, causing uneven wear to the bearings/races and possibly a greater degree of looseness once worn in. While the amount of looseness from this is not usually a problem, it is an added variable.
Level 3: Some prefer to have full assurance that everything is correct with the minimum of variables, and therefore do a complete refresh including races and bearings. Most of the tech enthusiasts would recommend this as I would since you're already taking the time to get to that point and it's not too much more work--theoretically. Some cautions: The carrier bearings aren't the easiest things to get off and might frustrate you. Also, be sure to check that you didn't damage the race seat when you punched them out; also, thoroughly cleaning the carrier housing will be important to ensure nothing gets trapped behind the pinion races as you drive them in. Doing these things right gives you better assurance that everything will be good, however, doing it wrong could result in a worse result than the previous levels, ie leaving things alone.
So, it comes down to how comfortable you are with doing this work versus how much risk you are willing to take.
Cheers and good luck.
Level 1: You could easily get away with just using the same bearings if everything was fine before--just don't damage anything while taking it out or putting it back. The nice thing about doing this is you can probably get away with doing the least amount of cleaning inside the casing.
Level 2: Some believe that removing the pinion can damage the pinion bearings. Understandable on the tail bearing if it gets missaligned when you hammer it out; guess it depends on how you remove the head pinion bearing as to how much damage you might do to it. So another level of comfort is reached by replacing these bearings during the install. Doing it this way has the benefit of converting the original tail pinion bearing into a setup bearing (most just use a dremel or drill with a grinding wheel to remove a couple thousands from the inside) and save even more wear on the new tail pinion bearing as you play with the gear setup. Again, you can probably get away with not cleaning the carrier case as much. If there is a downfall, it is that bearings and races mesh together in terms of wear pattern, and the new bearing may not mate the old race very well, causing uneven wear to the bearings/races and possibly a greater degree of looseness once worn in. While the amount of looseness from this is not usually a problem, it is an added variable.
Level 3: Some prefer to have full assurance that everything is correct with the minimum of variables, and therefore do a complete refresh including races and bearings. Most of the tech enthusiasts would recommend this as I would since you're already taking the time to get to that point and it's not too much more work--theoretically. Some cautions: The carrier bearings aren't the easiest things to get off and might frustrate you. Also, be sure to check that you didn't damage the race seat when you punched them out; also, thoroughly cleaning the carrier housing will be important to ensure nothing gets trapped behind the pinion races as you drive them in. Doing these things right gives you better assurance that everything will be good, however, doing it wrong could result in a worse result than the previous levels, ie leaving things alone.
So, it comes down to how comfortable you are with doing this work versus how much risk you are willing to take.
Cheers and good luck.
03-09-2005, 02:39 PM
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Yeah Guess ya might as well do it all while ya in there about $100 more without the axle bearing included kit and $120-130 with! Had low miles on mine and done it all with my gear swap! But I done It my self so there was no labor> Good gosh I love Being a tech sometimes all the work for free! But sometimes I get sick of pulling wrenches! 
