Potent68

I have grown tired of the vibration that comes from my poly mount. So I'm looking at going back to my rubber mount, regardless of how often I tear the rubber.

Anybody else done this?

Tom

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Yep, I put the stocker back in. I think some trannies vibrate more than others. Also some people can tolerate vibrations and certain noises better than others, I'm not one of those people. Why are you tearing stock mounts so often? Possibly have a bad motor mount?

bryan c

Funny you should ask, I took out my poly and replaced it with my stock mount last night. I just couldn't stand the noise and vibration.

stoker420

I like the noise and vibration, makes me feel more in-tune with the car.

rhaig

when i first installed the poly trans mount i put the "preload spacer" in. i vibrated like hell. when you take it out it makes it a lot better

Camaro99SS

iTrader: (4)

I went back to a stock mount after driving with the Prothane for a month. That didn't last long so I tried the Energy Suspension. It was pretty stiff and vibrated at first but after a week, it was pretty close to a rubber mount with vibration. IMO, the ES is the best combo of stiffness and smoothness.

Jason

Derek98z

iTrader: (55)

yep, had a poly and hated it

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

leave the poly in, take a strip of rubber, and put it between the trans crossmember and the frame...


this is what Spohn and some other companys do with their crossmembers that soildly mount the TQ arm...

it really reduces the vibrations felt, while still limiting trans movement like a good poly bushing should..

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

btw if your vibrations are from a improper driveshaft angle to to the height of the poly unit, you can either run it without the plate, or lower the crossmember slightly with a thin washer under each bolt as a shim.

Joker

Just had a poly installed and love it; a little more vibration and noise but not enough to lose sleep over, much happier with this than the stock one.

Gallitin

iTrader: (4)

I just put one on my car and had debated on going back to the stock one, but you say it's ok to take the preload spacer off of it? If that's right it might be a good compromise.

Tom L. Busby

I often reply to this question. Both company’s poly trans mounts are allegedly designed for the LT1, and are a couple of mm's too tall. The top of the trans rubs against the tunnel and transmits a huge amount of noise at 2200 rpm and up.

A fix is to put one fender washer, with a 3/8ths inch hole I think, between the floor and the crossmember, at each of the 4 bolts that hold the trans brace to the floor. This will lower the trans back to stock height and the noise is basically gone.

A slight vibration is normal, but noise like a helicopter going by is not. The poly mount makes a little vibration you can feel through your feet rather than noise, to me, the way mine is set up, and the "rest of the story" is that I used 4 delrin fender washers. Delrin is brand name for a harder and more durable type of nylon. It compresses very little and is a little harder than most polyeurathanes. The theory for using delrin is that by connecting a material different than steel the harmonic vibrations are diminished. A friend of mine makes windsurfing masts and booms so finding delrin was easier than it may be for you. He carved it round on a lathe and drilled the center holes. I think they are 3mm thick. If you want to use a more exotic solution, there is some improvement with delrin washers.

The compressed thickness of the delrin is 2.5mm. The washers are a little under 3mm uncompressed.

The tailshaft of the trans and the pinion snout on the diff should be parallel, so you need to measure their up/down and the side-to-side relationship. My trans was slightly off at the side-to-side too, so I pressed it to the drivers slightly to align it when I bolted it up.

I don't know where you get delrin. It is a trademarked brand name so you could search for it. I would think that someone would make delrin washers. You know what the stock sway bar endlink bushings look like -- the white plastic *****? That's pretty much what delrin looks like, if that is any help.

I did not take the preload plate off or grind the nubs off. I think they are part of the pre-load. Otherwise why would ES go to the trouble of making the bumps? It would be cheaper to make the part without bumps.

spgino

iTrader: (1)

i have the ES mount on and it does make quite a bit of noise and i did notice that it is taller than the stocker. I was thinking of taking off the extra metal plate (pre-load spacer) and was debating on grinding off the rubber 'nubs'. If i take of the spacer do i have to grind the nubs off??

thanks

black_z

iTrader: (4)

I run the ES mount, I didnt run the extra plate and I grounded off the nubs. I notice no vibrations or noise from it.

Gallitin

iTrader: (4)

Is this an ok thing to do? Or will it mess things up? I'd like to take mine off.

-Q-

iTrader: (10)

I think my trans mount is shot, and I can't decide whether to get the ES poly bushing or just go back with the stocker. I think the new mount will help out with some of the rattles and banging I'm getting from the trans and rear, but I'd just assume keep from creating new vibrations and noise from a new mount. Does anyone have a definitive answer as to whether it is better to take the preload spacer off and grind the nubs down or just to shim the crossmember? Also, where did you guys get your mount at? I went to Advance and they told me that they didn't have it and couldn't even order it for me.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

either or.. doesnt matter... ive done both. in theory, if the preload plate does somthing useful, it would be better to use a shim.


ignore the guy at advance, walk over to where all the poly stuff is (endlinks and such)... there should be a "GM trans mount" one sitting there... thats what you need.

they wont have it in the computer..

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

btw, before you shim it, run it as it comes.. if it works, great.

if it doesnt, THEN shim or remove the preload spacer and see if it helps.

-Q-

iTrader: (10)

Thanks a lot for the help. I read the install how-to on installuniversity, and I was wondering if I'll be able to do this with just a set of jackstands and a hydraulic jack to hold the tranny. I don't have a set of ramps to drive the car up on; will getting only the front of the car up in the air give me enough to make the swap?

Tranzor

I'd put it up on four jackstands so the whole car is level... that way you won't be supporting the transmission at an angle.