half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

hey guys i am looking for a possible walkthrough or somehting. but also a pretty decent list of tools that will be required. i have ALL of hte basics and i have ratcheting wrenches. assortment of Snapon ratchets and air ratchets. looking to see if there are any other tools that may make the job a little easier.

Also if there are any other suggestions on things to pick up before the install. gaskets/bolts/etc.

Edelbrock stepped Lts and y pipe are going on.

Thanks
Louie

mykdiver

All you need is a wrench for the header bolts, and for the exhaust fittings, also long extensions help getting the stock Y off of the stock manifolds, along with some elbow grease.
This is a very simple and straight forward install, you could pull the steering shaft to make the install easier.
The stock gaskets are ok to reuse.

half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

ok cool. thanks
Louie

LS1ownzYOU

iTrader: (1)

When it comes to actually doing the work myself the car always with me and winds up owning me.

Can you be more specific like what tools ie (sockets, wrenches, etc) are needed. Im going to run to home depot to pick this crap up since i dont haev here at school with me so i wanna take a list of wut i need.

Its pacesetter coated Lts and tsp 3" ORY.

TIA


-Keith

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Well, I just did mine last weekend, so it’s all pretty fresh in my mind.

First of all, take a look at the install guide posted in the sticky at the top of the page. It’s here also http://www.geocities.com/foff667/98Camaropg4.html

Then, turn on your air compressor. An air ratchet makes this thing 8 billion times easier. Trust me – you do NOT want to have to stick a regular ratchet in there and try to turn it when you can simply put the air ratchet on a press a button! Make sure it’s a 3/8” air ratchet, and that you have a 10mm socket (preferably an impact socket, as I rounded off 3 regular sockets – only the Craftsman socket lasted). You will also want an extension that is roughly 3-4” long (just long enough to clear the header tubes, but not too long so that you’re hitting crap with the back of the wrench). I had to use a 3/8” to 1/4” adapter (because my 10mm was a 1/4”) plus a 3” long swivel head that I modified not to swivel.

Follow the install guide. All of our cars are a little different. If your engine is even 1/4” off from another, then your install will go differently. Luckily, I did not have to take off my steering stuff, or unbolt the engine. But, I had to do 2 things. First, I had to take off a little tube of some sort right above the oil filter (driver side). It has 2 10mm bolts. Only a few tablespoons of oil drain out when it is off. I also had to grind off a little block of aluminum on the engine for both sides (if you can’t find it, then you aren’t hitting it – you’ll see it when it prevents you from getting the headers in). Here’s a small list of the things you MAY have to do – it will depend on the problems you run into:

1) Remove steering linkage
2) Grind off aluminum flash from engine block
3) Notch K-member for clearance
4) Remove small tube above oil filter
5) Remove heat shielding from floor pan
6) Unbolt engine – move engine side to side or up and down with 2x4
7) Loosen K-member bolts that hold it to frame

I think those are most of the big things that I’ve heard people do. Most have only to do a couple of them – I’ve never heard of anyone doing all!!

Also, put the rear tires on ramps, if you can. Reason? When you begin jacking the front WAY UP, the jack stops rolling after a while (because of all the weight on it). Then, as the arm goes up, it begins pulling the car. I actually had my rear jack stands tilted about 20 degrees, and on 2 legs, before I realized it. You will probably need some 2x4 or 4x4 wood pieces to put on top of the jack to get the car up high enough.

Finally, if you have a garage, try to get it cool. I bought a cheap window unit that barely kept it under 80 degrees. But, my garage is usually over 100 on a summer day! I even thought about just leaving the door open to my house overnight – but didn’t need to. Heat will make you MUCH more tired than the work. It took me 5 hours to do the driver’s side by myself (from turning on the garage light to washing my hands) and 6 hours for the passenger side and y-pipe with my father.

Ultimately, take your time, enjoy yourself, and don’t get frustrated. If you have a problem, take a break, then go back – it will usually work when you get back. If not, then come here and you’ll probably get 2-3 responses in a few minutes. It will be a few hours work for each side, and you will be tired during it. But, when you see the new headers nestled in there, you totally forget that you’re tired!!

Good luck, and have fun!!

Coy

iTrader: (4)

If you can, try to have some freinds with you. It makes **** a-lot easier. Especially if your freinds have girlishly small wrists, like my freind Jay.(good for getting to back bolt by #8 plug.)

kpowr82

iTrader: (9)

10 mm gear wrench. Every ls1 owner needs one.

EDIT also some arp header studs would be a worthwhile investment. it ll save you a good 20 minutes from trying to line up the header gaskets with the headers and make dropping the headers a whole lot easier later without risking stripping the hole

sorry for the lack of punctuation by the way. I m typing this from a point of sale keyboard with several pre programmed keys