00Vette

iTrader: (4)

Just saw a post in another forum where a guy had some engine problems with his H/C car after 25,000miles. I would think a good H/C install would handle way more miles than that!

How many miles do you guys think one should handle?

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

as many as any other motor. heads and cam have no bearing on engine life. the way you treat it does.

CRL 01 SS

iTrader: (4)

I agree.

00Vette

iTrader: (4)

Yeah.........that makes perfect sense. I was a little weary when I heard that 25,000 miles was average for H/C cars.

transAm-98

iTrader: (1)

i have 105k on a cam with .600 lift and decked Ls6 heads. and i didn't start modding till almost 90k.i'm very strict about my oil changes though. nothing but amsoil 10w 40 and i never go more than 4000 miles without changing it. i figure at this point i better not not get lazy, but so far not 1 mechanical problem. the stock rear is holding up so far too (knock on wood)

777

iTrader: (21)

I've never heard that. Maybe the average time before you need to change your valve springs.

nomorews6

iTrader: (7)

If you are worried about h/c install, why not just run 11's with boltons and then strap on some spray for 10s?

777

iTrader: (21)

If he's worried about heads and cam, I am pretty sure he will be worried about nitrous. Just FYI it's not easy by any means to run 11's on bolt-ons. You toss that out there like if anyone has bolt on's they can run 11's. Many people with heads/cam don't even run 11's. You would need some serious work (suspension, weight reduction, etc...) and top of the line bolt-ons to do that.

cslithergo

I think 777 has it, its the spring issue. It is a question of mine also. I have read a few post that say with certain amount of lift it is suggested/required that the springs be changed every 25k miles. Is this the case? I have very little experience with LSX motors.
chris

S1LV3R

iTrader: (5)

If you wanna get nit picky about it the H/C motor may not last as long. I agree with SUX2BU, but someone with a larger cam is more likey to spin the motor higher in the RPM's to get moving under normal driving just because the power band of the motor has shifted. If it is an auto car then more than likely it has a matching stall for the cam and you know that's gonna rev higher than normal when accelerating from a stop. What I'm getting at is the motor is always gonna be moving faster thus increasing wear. I also think the extra cylinder pressure from the better filling (heads/cam) would exert more of load on the bearings. These are just my thoughts. So, yeah I think a H/C motor won't last as long as a stocker. The difference may be so little....who knows.

777

iTrader: (21)

Yes, you need to change the springs ever ~20-25k miles. Maybe earlier depending on the cam you have.

nomorews6

iTrader: (7)

I agree with the nitrous issue - however he wouldn't have to run it all the time. Also, for the boltons, I think a lot of it has to do with weather and where you are at, track conditions, etc. I'm sure for folks running at a 0 da, and not with a pig, it would just take some good traction, a big stall, and the other supporting boltons.

my01camaroz28

iTrader: (15)

I must suck at driving on the track. I ran a 12.8 with a mild cam, bolt ons, m6, Ram stg II clutch and mickey thompson et streets. I had trouble matching where the clutch gripped in relation to the tires gripping. Everytime I did a 3K drop I would bog once or go into a spin with higher rpm. WTF.

777

iTrader: (21)

Get a 2-step and a shift light. That'll help out quite a bit. You should be running better than that though, considering the weather is good and you aren't in high altitude.

PREDATOR-Z

Nitrous safety is relative to how well you can tune your motor. I spray up to 200 dry on a stock block with no issues.

H/C on motors that see less than 6500 rpm have no reduced life IF the setup is properly tuned and blueprinted (all tolerances up to spec).

777

iTrader: (21)

Nitrous still takes it's toll on the engine. Just because it doesn't blow up doesn't mean things aren't being worn. However, I agree, safety equipment and a good tune is key.

PREDATOR-Z

It only takes a toll if you go over the limits. Detonation is what hurts nitrous use. eliminate that (meaning stay within acceptable range of DCR for octane used and within cylinder pressure capabilities of the block) and you'll have no problem.
As a matter of fact, my motors run better after nitrous use because it cleans all the carbon deposits.

777

iTrader: (21)

The high cylinder pressures don't wear out the rings earlier than normal?

PREDATOR-Z

In theory yes but there are margins and then there are extreemes.
The life reduction is not that dramatic, otherwise any mod to the internal can be thought of as life reducing.
Proper oil grade and changes, proper tuning, proper geometry, proper crank harmonic control (basicaly a properly built and maintained motor) will not have a short life.
I've used blown motors that lasted 100K miles, but in every motor there is friction, so parts get tired and rebuilts are necessary.
BTW most of the damage done to motors is when you start the motor and for a minute amount of time, there is not enough lubrication on the parts.
An accusump or pre-start oiler for exemple can stretch the life of your motor dramatically.
The moral of it all is, if used within respectable margins, using the proper tune, nitrous is no more damaging than any other internal mod.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

actually i think running 11's with bolt ons is pretty easy. its the 10's with bolt on's that i'm having trouble with.