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Building 408 for my D1 Procharger Setup...opinions!

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Old 12-08-2005, 01:25 AM
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Default Building 408 for my D1 Procharger Setup...opinions!

I am basically setting this up as a street/race car. I still drive it about 75% of the time and enjoy driving it on the street so nothing too crazy. I just want to know what you guys think of what I have discussed with various people and I think decided on!

Looking for compression around 9.0:1
Iron 408
Callies 4340 LS1 4.000 Crankshaft
Callies Compstar 6.125 LS1 Rods W/ ARP 2000 rod bolts
Wiseco K396A3 LS1 32cc Pistons 4.030 Bore
Wiseco Moly Rings
ARP 234-5608 Main Studs

I am also planning on a set of ETP Heads, but which do you recomend for my particular application? 240s? 255s?

I will also be going with a custom cam which obviously will be ground for this setup specifically...

So what do you guys think? What kind of numbers should I see with this setup at around 13-15psi? This is on a GTO and I have a single IC front mounted.

Any suggestions?

Also If anyone knows what size crank pulley/blower pulley combo I will need to make between 13-15psi on this setup please chime in! I have little to no clue what I will need for this right now!
Old 12-08-2005, 04:44 AM
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You will be seeing 700+ rwhp with the combo you have planned out.

I suggest you look into the LS2 block which can give you an easy 402 ci, and save you 63 extra lbs on the front end, compared to the iron block.

The ETP 240 heads should be plenty stout for your combo, I'd call them and see what they would recommend for your combo.

I'd go with the ATI ProCharger 3.4" blower pulley for your combo, it should put you close to where you're looking to be. Bob
Old 12-08-2005, 07:26 AM
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puttin an iron block in an otherwise heavy car with already high underhood temps makes no sense. go alum 402 like bob said.
Old 12-08-2005, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
puttin an iron block in an otherwise heavy car with already high underhood temps makes no sense. go alum 402 like bob said.
if its heavy to begin with,whats the difference with another 63 lbs?

It all depends on what your looking for though.

My car is a street car and I didnt wanna take a chance with an alunimum block since there has been proven performance with iron blocks.

Nothing against 402CI ls2's, just hasnt been around long enough like the iron blocks.
Old 12-08-2005, 08:38 AM
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[QUOTE=2000 Tran Zam]if its heavy to begin with,whats the difference with another 63 lbs?

exactly what i was thinking.
Old 12-08-2005, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000 Tran Zam
if its heavy to begin with,whats the difference with another 63 lbs?

It all depends on what your looking for though.

My car is a street car and I didnt wanna take a chance with an alunimum block since there has been proven performance with iron blocks.

Nothing against 402CI ls2's, just hasnt been around long enough like the iron blocks.
Thats basically the same reason I am going iron... proven performance! I have no clue how the aluminum block will react to boost! And I plan on relocating the battery to the trunk along with a light weight skid plate to help me save the weight! Between those 2 things alone I figure I should save 30-40lbs up front and with some other minor adjustments I think I can shave 50lbs off the front half of the car! Thats my goal atleast!

So how about the setup itself!? Does that look like a pretty stout setup!?
Old 12-08-2005, 09:42 AM
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if its goin to be street and strip car you dont need heads to hit 14psi
... you could just use your stockers and unshroud them a bit and polish and save $2400...

just a thought... espcially when your wanting that horsepower level with those specific rods...

personally id rather skimp on heads and put more meat in the rod area... like lunati pro billet rods
Old 12-08-2005, 10:43 AM
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63lbs from the Iron block and another 3x lbs from the ET heads would put u around 100lbs. I also saw somewhere that the iron block weigh 9x lbs. Hell my car started at 3340lbs and now it ended up at 3610 lbs because of small things i didnt care about. My race weight is around 3850-3900lbs! depending on how much gas i have in the tank. Now imagine if i get an iron block with ET heads that adds another 100lbs.

I think 32cc pistons would drop u lower than 9.0 C/R running 71cc heads and 6.125 rods. You need to check that cc on the piston if you want a 9.0 C/R. 15cc 4.030 piston with 71cc heads would put u around 8.6-8.7 C/R running .054 MLS gasket. 20cc pistons will drop u to 8.3 C/R or so. So i think 32cc pistons will be too much of a C/R drop. Just my observation.

Im doing the exact same thing, but im going with a 402 LS2 running Oilver Billet rods and custom CP pistons with lower rings to handle boost and Nitrous better. My goal is to max the D-1SC first and then give it either 100-150shot to bring that TQ up a little bit.

Good luck
Old 12-08-2005, 10:48 AM
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didnt erik konig spec this motor out?

if so, then thats enough creditability for me.
Old 12-08-2005, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
didnt erik konig spec this motor out?

if so, then thats enough creditability for me.
Yes... Erik put this setup together for me! Weight is just something I will have to overcome with power... because I am pretty set on this setup! I am not sure how much an aluminum 402 would like all this boost!
Old 12-08-2005, 12:07 PM
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Concerning the aluminum blocks I was thinking alum at first for weight savings but I talked to a guy up in new york that does much of GMs engine/product development about my turbo setup. He said the alum blocks are junk for boost and he has seen on 3 occasions due to some detonation the sleeves cracked and ripped the block to pieces. I took his word for it and went iron for that reason only. I know some guys have put 1200hp through the alum block but I think for the rest of us "average joes" the iron is the economical and safe route to go to protect our investments.
Old 12-08-2005, 12:12 PM
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go iron, its the only way to be dependable
Old 12-11-2005, 08:38 AM
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The aluminum block will handle a lot of power. If you are looking for 700 to 800 rwhp, the aluminum block will work just fine, as long as you have a good rotating assembly. The iron blocks are certainly more affordable, and cost much less to bore, but they do add weight to the front of the car. Bob
Old 12-11-2005, 09:19 AM
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Default ETP heads

Since when do the ETP heads weigh 30 something pounds more than ls6 heads? Are they that heavy duty?
Old 12-11-2005, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 52172
Since when do the ETP heads weigh 30 something pounds more than ls6 heads? Are they that heavy duty?
My friend shop did weigh them. The ETP heads had nothing on them compared to LSx heads that has valves and springs. The difference was 3x lbs between both of them.
Old 12-11-2005, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TrakDay
Yes... Erik put this setup together for me! Weight is just something I will have to overcome with power... because I am pretty set on this setup! I am not sure how much an aluminum 402 would like all this boost!
I was thinking about going iron block also but the aluminum is good to about 1000hp with a good rotating assembly. For a blower cam you dont want to go too big cause it will push the power up higher in the rpm range, I have a 230/238 .600/.610 115 lsa on a 382 motor so you would want to go a little bigger on a 402/408 motor. At 13-15lbs you should make some great power, I don`t know how well a T56 tranny will do, that 1-2 shift will be about 1sec off the line. Good luck.

Dave



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