Mike @ New Era

iTrader: (10)

Check out this new product , LS1 engine girdle !!!!

Available at New Era Performance for $593.99 shipped (comes with ARP main studs as well)



Here is the description :

Introducing the new patented (6,928,974) LS1/LS6/LS2 engine main girdle. All cad/cam designed.The LS1/LS6/LS2 engine main girdle increases block rigidity and tortional stiffness by 2x by boxing in all the main caps. The LS1/LS6/LS2 main engine girdle can help slow oil consumption by not letting the block twist under load and keeping the bores square , thus not letting oil slip past the rings. the LS1/LS6 engine main girdle adds horse power ,by decreasing windage and helps decrease friction from the piston area and the main caps by decreasing the bending moments and shear stresses experienced by a high performance engine. The LS1/LS6 engine main girdle will stabilize the bottom end of the cylinder block and that will decrease harmonics and vibration ,which will let you run upwards towards 1000 horses (has been up to 1500 horses already!!!) with out shaking the engine apart.Now you do not have to run a expensive c5r race block or go to a heavy iron block. some of the features of LS1/LS6 engine main girdle include: Provisions for oil drain back,fits stock oil pan and windage tray.Made out of aircraft quailty 304 stainless steel,140,000 psi yield strength and 185,000 psi ultimate strength, Notches for rod clearance ,Will fit up to a 4.000 inch stroker crankshaft with out modification. "The most important part of a high performance engine is the cylinder block, to be durable and reliable, it must be very strong especially in the bottom end, or crankshaft main bearing webs. A strong bottom end determines the rigidity of the powertrain, including the transmission." A must have product for all out performance. JUST PLAIN AWESOME!! PATENTED !!!!!!!!!! MADE IN THE U.S.A. DO NOT BUILD YOUR ENGINE WITH OUT THE LS1 ENGINE GIRDLE, YOU WILL NOT BE SORRY.

You can order online anytime at www.neweraperformanceparts.com or call in during business hours at 585-865-1832 .

Thanks ,
Mike
www.neweraperformanceparts.com
sales@neweraperformanceparts.com
585-865-1832

777

iTrader: (21)

I'm guessing that it's new to your shop? I've seen those around for quite some time.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Looks nice, but I'll pass.

ChucksZ06

iTrader: (9)

I would question the product working as stated because of the lack of thickness. Would need to tie into main webs or caps to creat more of a torsion box. The ls1 block and mains are improvement over sbc because of the greater depth of the block it is more resistant to twisting.

777

iTrader: (21)

This is really only needed for high horsepower applications. It is proven to work.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

No doubt that it works. But $600 for a piece of metal with some holes in it doesnt seem worth it to me. Someone could make that for under $50 with proper tooling.

black01_WS6

iTrader: (13)

I have seen those around for over a year now. good product, don't know if it really helps out all that much, but if you are building a high horsepower car what is another 500 or so for some added insurance.

69firebird

iTrader: (14)

to do this and make it work well, it would need to tie into the block where the oil pan bolts up. W2W makes on like that i think and it ties it all together and is made out of a much thicker hunk of metal i think

if you are looking one of these, go to ebay they are cheaper

Ric

Cool idea! I may have to get a piece of 3/8" flat bar out of the scrap bin and mill it out. It'd be a LOT cheaper than this one on here.

DaddySS

Even it were 100% effective $593 for a stainless steel plate cut to size and ARP bolts is pretty pricey. If it were $100 for the plate, and perhaps another $100 if you needeed the bolts, everyone who took the pan off would get one...but not at 593.

Just my .02

leaftye

I doubt this. What kind of steel are you using? I can only find one type of 304 that meets your specs, and I bet the cost of the material alone would be higher than $593. I applaud your release of this product, and I've long wondered when someone would finally come out with this for the LSx block, but I don't like being lied to, so please put my suspicions to rest.

From McMaster's website:

It lists the yield strength of 304 at 20,000 psi.

Matweb has the following:
AK Steel Austenic Stainless Steel 304
Tensile Strength, Ultimate (psi): 90100
Tensile Strength, Yield (psi): 42100
AK Steel Austenic Stainless Steel 304L
Tensile Strength, Ultimate (psi): 85000
Tensile Strength, Yield (psi): 35000
Nickelvac® 304 L UNS S30403 Specialty Steel
Tensile Strength, Ultimate (psi): 74700
Tensile Strength, Yield (psi): 29700
Allegheny Ludlum Stainless Steel Chromium-Nickel Type 304, 0% Cold Rolled (UNS S30400)
Tensile Strength, Ultimate (psi): 83000
Tensile Strength, Yield (psi): 42100
Allegheny Ludlum Stainless Steel Chromium-Nickel Type 304, 10% Cold Rolled (UNS S30400)
Tensile Strength, Ultimate (psi): 98000
Tensile Strength, Yield (psi): 75000
Allegheny Ludlum Stainless Steel Chromium-Nickel Type 304, 20% Cold Rolled (UNS S30400)
Tensile Strength, Ultimate (psi): 115000
Tensile Strength, Yield (psi): 100000
Allegheny Ludlum Stainless Steel Chromium-Nickel Type 304, 30% Cold Rolled (UNS S30400)
Tensile Strength, Ultimate (psi): 132000
Tensile Strength, Yield (psi): 120000
Allegheny Ludlum Stainless Steel Chromium-Nickel Type 304, 40% Cold Rolled (UNS S30400)
Tensile Strength, Ultimate (psi): 147000
Tensile Strength, Yield (psi): 135000
Allegheny Ludlum Stainless Steel Chromium-Nickel Type 304, 50% Cold Rolled (UNS S30400)
Tensile Strength, Ultimate (psi): 160000
Tensile Strength, Yield (psi): 143000
Allegheny Ludlum Stainless Steel Chromium-Nickel Type 304, 60% Cold Rolled (UNS S30400)
Tensile Strength, Ultimate (psi): 186000
Tensile Strength, Yield (psi): 149000
AISI Type 304HN Stainless Steel
Tensile Strength, Ultimate (psi): 105000
Tensile Strength, Yield (psi): 60200

If you're for real, you're using the strongest 304 listed on Matweb.

Ric and DaddySS, it'll be much more expensive for the materials than you two are guessing. I didn't find the price for 3/8" 304, but for 1/2" 304, in a 12"x16" size, the steel alone would cost over $700! Even a 1/4" plate would cost over $500. This is for a nice finish, which if you can do without, I found 1/4" available at one site for less than $100 for a 1'x2' plate. On eBay it'll still be around $50, but good luck finding out the exact specs on the steel used.

Mike @ New Era

iTrader: (10)

When steel is purchased in a very large quantity , obviously it is a much cheaper price than just buying enough to make one , I am pretty sure they run through batches of 100 at a time . Look , we carry the product (we don't make it) so I am not sure but if you say it is the strongest 304 steel , then that is the material that it is made out of because those specs are not BS to my knowledge . This piece is patented , so anything else you buy similar to it will not be the same . I know it's pricey , but I think it is a good deal considering the material it is made out of and the fact you are also getting aset of custom ARP studs with it . I am not telling anyone to buy it , we thought it was a nice piece so we decided to carry it , it is a DM Performance product .

DaddySS

I'm always willing to learn and admit when I am mistaken. If the steel is that strong and costly then it probably is a good value.

Thanks for the follow up and setting us (me) straight.

BLUEBALLS ZZ

iTrader: (2)

LMAO. i almost fell off the chair on that one. and what proof do we have this does all you say?

Ric

Leaftye, I don't have any stainless laying around like that... I was referring to mild steel. Only 36K lb yield, but it should do fine for me, if I ever even need one. It's still stronger than the aluminum block it'd go on.

leaftye

Mike, I didn't quite realize that this product wasn't developed by your shop. As such, I agree that you can only pass on the information the manufacturer provided you. Thanks for clearing that up. If this is the real deal, it's a hell of a deal. I can't say how effective it is, but it sure looks like it made of some of the best, if not THE best, stuff out there.

I've also been wanting to mention that this product would be much more effective if it was bonded to the mounting surface. I know GM tried to make the bottom end stronger with thicker webbing at the bottom of the block, and with a structural oil pan, so this probably would've been part of the original engine design if it wouldn't have doubled the price of the block.

Blueballz, if strengthening the bottom of the block doesn't do any good, then I guess Katech and Callies are wasting their time manufacturing billet steel main caps eh? Have you ever designed AND tested anything that you're going to challenge a lack of proof of effectiveness?

Z06PSI

iTrader: (33)

I have one of these already and the quality is outstanding and will be going into my 800h.p. TT Corvette as soon as I get out of Kuwait.....Like mentioned before it is not for the low h.p. crowd.....

stage274

I make the girdle and I really do not make any money making these semi custom pieces. I make the lsx engine girdle for the love of the ls1 engine, so you do not have to blow up your aluminum block.I spent months designing the girdle and tens of thousands of dollars to bring a product like this to market and it started as a project in my engineering class. i gave an extensive speech and a mathematical derivation on the theory of engine dynamics. not only was my project looked over and graded by the best areospace engineering professor at my school, it was one of the best projects he has seen in a long time. Of course I recieved an A , plus I was issued a united states patent number (6,928,974). My heart and soul goes in every girdle I make, I made the girdle out of the best stainless steel available, those specs are for chromiun nickel 304 stainless steel.I would not make a product if it was not the best. I would have made it out of titanium if I thought it was a better steel than the one I used.Yeah I could have used 1010 mild steel, but people are not stupid, that is why if you ask any of my customers about the quality of my Girdle, they will tell you its bar none. I have sold over 300 hundred girdles and not one failure, danzio performance called me and I quote "man I can not blow up my engine ,I run it every weekend with 20 pounds of boost " he is running a 6.0 aluminum block stock mains and dynos 1250 horse, he told me the engines he has raced against with out the girdle split the mains and cracked the block, he has been running this set up for more than a year WITH OUT FAILURE, IF THAT IS NOT PROOF I DO NOT KNOW WHAT IS,and most of my customers have 900+ horsepower on stock mains caps. Its been proven the alumium lsx block twist, and they stay that way.Even the mighty c5r block has problems in high horspower applications, the block separates from the mains and usually cracks, this is confirmed from kurt from wheel to wheel performance, that is why it is important that you run the lsx engine girdle,so that twisting will not happen to your expensive lsx motor. When aluminum blocks heat cycles they get weaker, so every time you run an aluminum block it gets weaker, on the other hand iron blocks get stronger when they are heat cycled, that is why the best blocks that are Iron are the ones that have miles on them. I would never run any engine with out a girdle, even a steel block, because they twist too, lets face it ,you need a girdle for an alumium block because the density of an aluminum blocks is about three times less dense as iron block are , plus aluminum blocks get weaker every time you run them, I have one on my motor, and so do 300 other horsepower junkies, Thank you and god bless America, stage274

magius231

iTrader: (8)

FWIW Engine girdles are extremely popular in the Turbo Buick crowd who run an iron block and large amounts of boost. They have been proven to hold the engine together quite well compared to stock, and it sounds to me like this one is no different. I say kudos for developing something like this on your own and bringing it to market.

383ss

iTrader: (14)

I'll ask the dumb questions then lol.

at what hp level are these recommended?? also, what does it weigh?