Looking for 383 396 LT1 Stroker Info
#1
Looking for 383 396 LT1 Stroker Info
Now before I get alot of posts cracking on me for being a somewhat newbie to the forums, I have searched on the site for 396 and only came up with 3 posts. So I think I'm justified in starting a new thread on this topic.
I have a 96 M6 Trans Am with around 120,000 on it and am trying to figure out a good plan of attack for a motor build to have ready to drop in it before the stock one goes. I know alot of people down the LT4 set up, and when it comes bang for the buck, I've considered it, along with some stroking. Now here's where the options come in. I really like the thought of being able to badge my car as a 396. Is going with a 396 stroker kit worth the few extra ponies? Or just stick with a 383 kit and run AFR's or the LT4 with the Hot Cam? I'm not looking to go out and break records, I just want to be able to have a streetable car that will run in the 12's and to be able to say that yes it's a 500hp car. My car now with the miles runs a damn near 14 flat at 99.88 on street tires, my other stipulation is that I want to put down at least a 110mph. And yes, I know that if I put in 4.10's and DR's I'd be able to do that now, but I like being able to run 150+mph at under 6000 rpm. This might come in handy running out in Arizona some time in the future with some suspension work.
Basically give me the pros and cons on the 383 and 396 builds along with some insight into the hp numbers that should be expected with the LT4 and AFR 210 heads and a cam along the lines of the Hot Cam.
Anyone in the Kansas City area have a LT1/LT4 4 bolt block for sale?
Pics of my Cars and Projects
http://groups.msn.com/HarpersArmyTimes/cars.msnw?Page=4
I have a 96 M6 Trans Am with around 120,000 on it and am trying to figure out a good plan of attack for a motor build to have ready to drop in it before the stock one goes. I know alot of people down the LT4 set up, and when it comes bang for the buck, I've considered it, along with some stroking. Now here's where the options come in. I really like the thought of being able to badge my car as a 396. Is going with a 396 stroker kit worth the few extra ponies? Or just stick with a 383 kit and run AFR's or the LT4 with the Hot Cam? I'm not looking to go out and break records, I just want to be able to have a streetable car that will run in the 12's and to be able to say that yes it's a 500hp car. My car now with the miles runs a damn near 14 flat at 99.88 on street tires, my other stipulation is that I want to put down at least a 110mph. And yes, I know that if I put in 4.10's and DR's I'd be able to do that now, but I like being able to run 150+mph at under 6000 rpm. This might come in handy running out in Arizona some time in the future with some suspension work.
Basically give me the pros and cons on the 383 and 396 builds along with some insight into the hp numbers that should be expected with the LT4 and AFR 210 heads and a cam along the lines of the Hot Cam.
Anyone in the Kansas City area have a LT1/LT4 4 bolt block for sale?
Pics of my Cars and Projects
http://groups.msn.com/HarpersArmyTimes/cars.msnw?Page=4
Last edited by Fresca4u2; 01-15-2006 at 11:37 AM. Reason: add info
#2
8 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
Well....If all your looking for is running 12's. A stock bottom end with heads and cam can run 11's all day long. A 383 build would be a solid 11 sec car with stock ported LT1 castings and even better with a set of AFR say 195 or 210's. A 396 with good AFR heads you can see 10's n/a and 9's on spray. The 396 is what I have been running for about 5 years.
Check out Port Pros at www.portpros.com. Ask for Harold. He can lead you in the right direction. Harold can build you the stroker and the heads. So you can one stop shop and have a long block ready to go.
You cant go wrong with any of these combos. The 383 would be my choice for you.
Check out Port Pros at www.portpros.com. Ask for Harold. He can lead you in the right direction. Harold can build you the stroker and the heads. So you can one stop shop and have a long block ready to go.
You cant go wrong with any of these combos. The 383 would be my choice for you.
Last edited by Tony Shepherd; 01-17-2006 at 07:20 AM.
#3
So with your 396 running for 5 years has it given you any trouble? I'm wanting to get a list of parts put together to start searching for. I've read some of the stroker postings on here about the flywheel needing to be worked over if you run an internally ballanced crank? I thought pretty much all the newer motors were internally balanced already? I'm really leaning toward the 396 side of things, even if it's a faster set up. Next question on that is what other aspects need to be looked at as far as injectors and fuel pump along with cams, I mean I'm sure that AFR 210's will do good with an LT4 cam, which would be fairly streetable. And that's more so what I need is something I can drive on the street and not have to trailer it everywhere. Any input is appreciated here. As I said, I just want to figure out a good combo and get a good parts list started that I can start checking off.
#4
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (53)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Monticello, Kentucky
Posts: 4,433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Lt4 hot cam is gonna make a stroker seriously underpowered. The cam is basically an upgrade for stock cubes. My cam is not really as big as I would like but if you're gonna be on the street, probably big enough. If you want that 500 horse, get a custom grind and the AFR's. The hot cam will be your bottleneck, especially if you get the great heads.
#5
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm running a 396 with stock ported heads & a hot cam which was a big mistake. The power just isn't there but was god enough for 12.50's with 1.67 60' times. I wish had gone with a bigger cam.
#7
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There's a guy who builds stroker LT1s on ebay. He could help you out a lot with your questions, and he did a hell of a nice job on my 383. When he built it, all I had to do was leave my car with him, and he installed the new motor in his shop for $500. That included reprogramming, a 3000 stall torque convertor, and a shift kit. I'm sure he'd install a larger stall if you wanted. He also builds 396s, and he will help you get the most bang for your buck in performance. His user ID is sbc_engine_builder His prices are pretty reasonable too.
Trending Topics
#8
Thanks for the info cartman I'm all about getting a good deal on parts and what not, there is a forged Eagle, and a Lunati crank on Ebay right now. Now if I could find a decently priced block to fit the crank for clearancing. There has to be some people fairly close to Kansas City, by close I'm talking like, within a 3 to 4 hour drive. I don't mind driving for good deals on parts
#9
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: courps christi tx.
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i say 396 all the way man, the bore is the same as a 383 you just have a longer strock, and yes being able to lable your car as a 396 is pretty nice, i have a 396 for about 9 months now and love it and the price between to 2 engines is almost nothing.
also like said before do not use the hot cam in a strocker motor i have a 236/244 in mine and still wish i would have gone a bit bigger.
also like said before do not use the hot cam in a strocker motor i have a 236/244 in mine and still wish i would have gone a bit bigger.
#10
You could also talk to Loyd Elliot about the heads and cam for your 396. He's doing my heads and intake right now, just have got the cam for my 396 stroker. www.eportworks.com Give him a call.
#11
So on to the great cam question, and I know everyone has a different opinion, but for a seriously streetable car, what are some good choices. It's not a track only car, I do tend to take it out on the town from time to time. Or drive it to work about an hour away on nice days in the summer.
#13
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Fresca4u2
Thanks for the info cartman I'm all about getting a good deal on parts and what not, there is a forged Eagle, and a Lunati crank on Ebay right now. Now if I could find a decently priced block to fit the crank for clearancing. There has to be some people fairly close to Kansas City, by close I'm talking like, within a 3 to 4 hour drive. I don't mind driving for good deals on parts
#16
Originally Posted by asudecat
I also have a 396. cam is about 240/248 and will be streetable. The more cubes you have the bigger cam you can go. my cam would be quite big on a 355. So I was told
#18
I will be running Loyd Elliott heads. I sent him Trick Flow bare castings. He worked them to 2.08,1.625 valves, with LT4 intake port matched. Check out www.eportworks.com You tell him what you want and he'll recommend what u will need.
#19
I'm wondering, how the hell does that intake fit under the hood? I do like the setup though, the regular LTx intakes seem like they would be better off being replaced with something like yours. I'd think that a centrally located TB would be better for airlflow overall anyway.
#20
Originally Posted by 94Z396
I will be running Loyd Elliott heads. I sent him Trick Flow bare castings. He worked them to 2.08,1.625 valves, with LT4 intake port matched. Check out www.eportworks.com You tell him what you want and he'll recommend what u will need.