LS1Andrew

I just swapped out my stock TB for a Jantzer Ported TB, and the car idles around 1100-1200 now.

It has a bigger hole than my stock TB, so I'm thinking that may be the issue. Also wondering if the car needed time to re-learn everything after the swap.
If it is just the larger hole in the ported TB plate, can I correct it without tuning, or do I need tuning software to bring it back down to a reasonable level?



Thanks for the help in advance

Lithium

iTrader: (47)

Idle adjustment screw maybe?

slimcracka

iTrader: (7)

just unscrew the blade from the ported unit and swap it out with your stock one...im guessin it was off a cam car thats y its drilled out...its an easy 2 screw swap....

LS1Andrew

It does look a bit higher than the stock one...
would that throw a Check Engine light?

Cstick

My car learned idle after a few minutes when I ported mine. Try adjusting the idle screw. It the hole is bigger the car may be able to adjust, but swapping throttle blades may help fix the problem as well. Lock tight the two screws if you replace the the blade. You might also reset the TPS as well, but probably is not causing the high idle.

Crazy Man

iTrader: (6)

Swap the blade Or you can epoxy up the hole in the blade and drill a smaller one...

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

I'm not sure sure this is a good idea. I wouldnt like to drive around with big chunk of epoxy geting slammed open and shut just begging break loose and get sucked in. Swap the blades or buy a new one if you need to. I would try and adjust the screw first. Might want to get out a volt meter for the TPS and find out what it should be at for idle (completly closed). That will tell you if its where it needs to be or not.

Take off the idle air controll and make sure the o-ring is in place. They like to get stuck inside the throttle body you removed it from and are easily missed.

SOM98TA

iTrader: (1)

having a higher idle with a ported TB is normal.. gives it 50 or so miles.. it will return to normal.

LS1Andrew

I think we have a winner.

I'm pretty sure the problem is the idle screw, it's really high on the ported TB, and really low on the stock one. I switched over to the stock TB again just so I can get to work safely tomorrow without having my car idling at 1500rpm in rush-hour traffic.

I'll adjust the screw tomorrow or the next day and see what happens. I'll definitely use a volt meter when I do it.


Thanks again guys for the suggestions.

Lady Redhawk

iTrader: (6)

CrazyMan knows what he is talking about, he has done quite a few Thottle Bodies. If the problem turns out to be the hole is too big, send him a pm and find out exactly what to use.

LS1Andrew

lol, I should have been paying attention...

Crazy Man

iTrader: (6)

And that would be the problem lol

Go Faster

Let us know the screw adjustment worked, I had the same problem and switched back to the stock blade and that solved the idle problem, and the car would ran great until about 3600 rpm and then the rpm would drop and it would shift even tho I was at WOT.???

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

[QUOTE=LS1Andrew]lol, I should have been paying attention...

Awesome illustration job!

I'm not very experienced with epoxy/JB weld. I have some on my car holding the plastic part onto the temp sensor, and it seems tough enough to do anything. I'm just the kind of person who would think about that every time the car started up, even if it was stronger in that spot than the rest of the TB

If it really is that strong, my mistake for doubting it