TransAmJoe

iTrader: (1)

We are puttin a clutch in the car. We have the drive shaft and the torque arm off and the trans un bolted but it wont slide out. any ideas???

HandsomeBWouderful

iTrader: (2)

Check the top bolt of the bellhousing. There are some top bolts that are hard to see from underneath the car.

TransAmJoe

iTrader: (1)

Do you take the bellhousing and the tranny out together or seperate?

408WS6

iTrader: (1)

I've heard its easier to take the transmission off first, then the bell housing. Makes it easier to get to that top bolt.

Moe

ya, there is a bolt on the very top of the bellhousing so you will need to take the transmission off and then the bellhousing. It is also a good idea to take off the cross member if you haven't already because it will hit the y-pipe when you try to pull it back. The transmission is going to be hard to push back because of the two locater pins on the sides of it. If you have a porta power, it would help a lot to use it to get the transmission pushed out a little bit. Just make sure to not to put to much pressure on it if it does not budge because there may be somethign else holding it in there. Also make sure all bolts are out, should be 8 of them.

DEE99TA

iTrader: (7)

Once you verify you have all the bolts off. Then I would look at the guide pins.

My passenger side pin was rusted from the ac water running on it. I had to take the starter off in order to pry on that side. Also, spray some liquid wrench on the pin to help dissolve the rust.

DEE

'02 SLP#686

iTrader: (1)

Remove: Drive shaft, torque arm, Y-pipe, clutch line, shifter. It is easier to remove the tranny from the bell housing first. There should be 8 bolts, the tough one is where the vent pipe is for the tranny (pass side top). Once you get these, give it a few wiggles, up and down. There are two small pry spots, one by the clutch cable and one on the opposite side. Give some light prys on these two spots to see if you can get movement. If not, then you missed a bolt or two. Sometimes it helps to losen the motor mounts to get some movement out of the motor (backwards tilt).

It can be a real pain in the butt if you haven't had the tranny out in a while or ever. Keep plugging, eventually it will come.

CaliboyTA

iTrader: (2)

Check out the locating pins. My pins were rusted which made it difficult to take out. Took us over 30 minutes to take out the tranny. we sprayed wd-40 and gently pry at those 2 spot. eventually it popped right off. Finess, not stress.

ss1129

iTrader: (16)

Yeah no ****. I spent damn near 20 mins trying to pop off the bellhousing. I was staring at the thing like "Im I that stupid that I cant get this off". I ended up putting antiseize on the guide pins so I dont have to go through that again. There are also 3 pry spots. The one one the drivers side helped me the most. I couldnt even get to the passenger side without taking off the cat.No way in hell was I going to mess with breaking rusted bolts at this point. Then the one on the bottom that has you prying against the oil pan? Anyhow for my first ls1 clutch change with the restriction mod and a 102 degree fever I got it done in about 8 hours.

n2ojunkie

I have done this a number of times and have a question to those that insist on takeing off the y pipe,

WHY?

Like I said its been out maybe 5-6 times and never once touched it. The tail shaft should fit just infront of where the y comes together.

Sorry for jumping in but I see this as a waste fo time.

TransAmJoe

iTrader: (1)

Everything is out!!!

CaliboyTA

iTrader: (2)

well i didn't take off my y-pipe, but i did loosen them. I did that so i could lower my tranny further down to get to the top belhousing bolts.

n2ojunkie

I just use a swivel adapter to help me out. I think I have a couple of inches between the trans tail shaft and the y. I am lazy so I skip every step I can and still get the job done as fast as I can so I can go back and