Hooker Header Install Help Asap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Hooker Header Install Help Asap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Driver Side Header Wont Go Up. Tried Moving The Tranny And Removed The Steering Linkage. Need Need Help Doing This Intall Need To Finish Tonite. Somebody Please Chim In With Your Opinion On The Driver Side Header Intstall. On Hooker Longtubes.
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WELL WE TOOK A BREAK, AND HAD PIZZA. i DIDN'T THINK WE HAD TO NOTCH OR GRIND DOWN ANYTHING. IS THERE ANY WRITE UP ON HERE THAT CAN HELP THAT HAS PICTURES OF WHAT EXACTLY WE HAVE TO HIT OR GRIND DOWN. eVERYTIME I CLICK THAT LINK I GET A BLANK PAGE AND I LET IT LOAD FOR A FEW MINUTES.
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I just checked a hooker install write up and it said that the oil diverter plate had to be removed and that the casting on the block was hitting the header so they grinded it a little. I did the install over a year ago but I do know that I didn't grind a single thing. They will go in with out grinding
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wELL WE ARE HITTING A BLOCKISH PIECE STICKING OUT OF THE BLOCK I GUESS ITS THE PIECE I WOULD NEED TO GRIND DOWN, THE K MEMBER ALSO IS DRIVING ME CRAZY. I DIDN'T THINK WE NEEDED TO GRIND ANYTHING BUT NOW THAT I LOOK AT IT, ITS ALSMOT AS IF IT WONT GO IN AT ALL WITHOUT GRINDING OR BANGING ALOT OF **** OUT OF THE WAY.
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We tried from the top but didn't look like it would go in at all. We eventually just unbolted the drivers side motor mount and then lifted the engine up and it slid up with no problem at all. My friend was in shock when he turned it on, he also got the TSP Y pipe but hes going to install it tomorrow since it got pretty late, and he wanted to drive to school open headers. His set-up now is Hooker LTs, TSP Y, Electric Cut-Out in the I Pipe, and Flowmaster muffler out back. Sounds good, and i know its going to sound killer with that open cut-out. Thanks againfor all thoses who chimed in with info and tips.
-Joel
-Joel
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I had the same issues putting them in my Firehawk. I had to spend one hour with a big file grinding down that tab on the block, I had to put a small "dent" in the firewall and the a little ding into one of the primaries so it wouldn't touch the k-member when the engine flexed on it's mounts.
Oh yeah, that little thing right abouve the oil filter must come off. Two 10mm bolts and some oil will constantly trickle out. If you don't take off that small piece of aluminum above the oil filter you'll never get it.
I hated my Hookers and if I had to do it again I'd get something else like quality stainless QTP's.
Oh yeah, that little thing right abouve the oil filter must come off. Two 10mm bolts and some oil will constantly trickle out. If you don't take off that small piece of aluminum above the oil filter you'll never get it.
I hated my Hookers and if I had to do it again I'd get something else like quality stainless QTP's.
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There is a little nub that sticks out of the block that keeps drivers
side form going in, saw this of with a sawzall in 5 min. I f you don't
have a sawzall you can find one at harbor freight for $35 to$40 .
Worst case use a hacksaw
side form going in, saw this of with a sawzall in 5 min. I f you don't
have a sawzall you can find one at harbor freight for $35 to$40 .
Worst case use a hacksaw
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I just wanted to add that I didnt grind anything as well.I pulled the steering linkage,oil divetor plate and oil filter and that was it.They slid right in.I also bought mine when they first came out like 4 yrs ago.Not that they're different now.