PICS of SLP UD Pulley vs Stock
04-13-2006, 09:03 PM
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PICS of SLP UD Pulley vs Stock I installed a SLP/Powerbond UD pulley today and I snapped some pics for comparison. The quality of the SLP/Powerbond UD pulley is outstanding, plus it comes with a new GM balancer bolt. The install was easy, and it looks really good too lol. The responsiveness and power gain can definately be felt in the SOTP, and I so far I can't tell if there is any difference with the charging system. Definatley a worthwhile mod.
Here's what I used and it took me about an hour to finish with the front of the car up on ramps. My car is a manual so I just put it in 4th gear to keep the engine from turning. The pulley came with a new GM crank bolt.
Breaker bar with pipe to make it longer.
24mm deep socket for the crank pulley.
15mm socket for the tensioners.
3 arm pulley puller.
M16 x 2.0 x 120mm long bolt to help get new pulley back on(picked one up at the hardware store along with a washer that matches the size of the head on the stock crank bolt)
Torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft/lbs(although the best I could actually do was about 200 ft/lbs, which I think is probably fine)
I'm probably forgetting a few things, but those are the major ones to make the job easy. The longer bolt to start the new pulley back on is almost neccessary so the threads on the crank don't get damaged, the longer bolt grabs more threads when putting the new pulley back on. It also helps when taking the stock pulley off because the stock crank bolt is just too short.
One of the AC condenser lines is right in front of the pulley, and along with the radiator fans, this makes it kind of a challenge getting the pulley puller in there when taking off the stock one.
The belts I used are nothing fancy, Drive-Rite 760K6 and 378K4 for the AC.
Here's what I used and it took me about an hour to finish with the front of the car up on ramps. My car is a manual so I just put it in 4th gear to keep the engine from turning. The pulley came with a new GM crank bolt.
Breaker bar with pipe to make it longer.
24mm deep socket for the crank pulley.
15mm socket for the tensioners.
3 arm pulley puller.
M16 x 2.0 x 120mm long bolt to help get new pulley back on(picked one up at the hardware store along with a washer that matches the size of the head on the stock crank bolt)
Torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft/lbs(although the best I could actually do was about 200 ft/lbs, which I think is probably fine)
I'm probably forgetting a few things, but those are the major ones to make the job easy. The longer bolt to start the new pulley back on is almost neccessary so the threads on the crank don't get damaged, the longer bolt grabs more threads when putting the new pulley back on. It also helps when taking the stock pulley off because the stock crank bolt is just too short.
One of the AC condenser lines is right in front of the pulley, and along with the radiator fans, this makes it kind of a challenge getting the pulley puller in there when taking off the stock one.
The belts I used are nothing fancy, Drive-Rite 760K6 and 378K4 for the AC.
Last edited by BIZZARO; 04-14-2006 at 11:18 PM.
04-13-2006, 10:57 PM
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If you just swap this pully, you dont have to swap anything else right? No other pulleys? Looks good, I was always thinking about this mod but wanted to hear some real results. So you can really feel the difference? Just curious!
Or did you get the harmonic balancer too? Is that worth getting or just the underdrive pulley?
Im still kinda new to this stuff, so Im not 100% sure if im even asking the right question!
Or did you get the harmonic balancer too? Is that worth getting or just the underdrive pulley?
Im still kinda new to this stuff, so Im not 100% sure if im even asking the right question!
Last edited by Smokin02WS6; 04-13-2006 at 11:03 PM.
04-14-2006, 09:56 PM
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After researching I am going to get the pully. Where did you get yours from. I love it. Seems like it is a good bolt on to put down on the LS1. Any help would be appreciated.
Mike
Mike
04-14-2006, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Smokin02WS6
After researching I am going to get the pully. Where did you get yours from. I love it. Seems like it is a good bolt on to put down on the LS1. Any help would be appreciated.
Mike
Mike
Breaker bar with pipe to make it longer.
24mm deep socket for the crank pulley.
15mm socket for the tensioners.
3 arm pulley puller.
M16 x 2.0 x 120mm long bolt to help get new pulley back on(picked one up at the hardware store along with a washer that matches the size of the head on the stock crank bolt)
Torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft/lbs(although the best I could actually do was about 200 ft/lbs, which I think is probably fine)
I'm probably forgetting a few things, but those are the major ones to make the job easy. The longer bolt to start the new pulley back on is almost neccessary so the threads on the crank don't get damaged, the longer bolt grabs more threads when putting the new pulley back on. It also helps when taking the stock pulley off because the stock crank bolt is just too short.
One of the AC condenser lines is right in front of the pulley, and along with the radiator fans, this makes it kind of a challenge getting the pulley puller in there when taking off the stock one.
The belts I used are nothing fancy,
Drive-Rite
760K6
6PK1930
and
378K4
4PK0960 for the AC.
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04-15-2006, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BIZZARO
Here's what I used and it took me about an hour to finish with the front of the car up on ramps. My car is a manual so I just put it in 4th gear to keep the engine from turning. The pulley came with a new GM crank bolt.
Breaker bar with pipe to make it longer.
24mm deep socket for the crank pulley.
15mm socket for the tensioners.
3 arm pulley puller.
M16 x 2.0 x 120mm long bolt to help get new pulley back on(picked one up at the hardware store along with a washer that matches the size of the head on the stock crank bolt)
Torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft/lbs(although the best I could actually do was about 200 ft/lbs, which I think is probably fine)
I'm probably forgetting a few things, but those are the major ones to make the job easy. The longer bolt to start the new pulley back on is almost neccessary so the threads on the crank don't get damaged, the longer bolt grabs more threads when putting the new pulley back on. It also helps when taking the stock pulley off because the stock crank bolt is just too short.
One of the AC condenser lines is right in front of the pulley, and along with the radiator fans, this makes it kind of a challenge getting the pulley puller in there when taking off the stock one.
The belts I used are nothing fancy,
Drive-Rite
760K6
6PK1930
and
378K4
4PK0960 for the AC.
Breaker bar with pipe to make it longer.
24mm deep socket for the crank pulley.
15mm socket for the tensioners.
3 arm pulley puller.
M16 x 2.0 x 120mm long bolt to help get new pulley back on(picked one up at the hardware store along with a washer that matches the size of the head on the stock crank bolt)
Torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft/lbs(although the best I could actually do was about 200 ft/lbs, which I think is probably fine)
I'm probably forgetting a few things, but those are the major ones to make the job easy. The longer bolt to start the new pulley back on is almost neccessary so the threads on the crank don't get damaged, the longer bolt grabs more threads when putting the new pulley back on. It also helps when taking the stock pulley off because the stock crank bolt is just too short.
One of the AC condenser lines is right in front of the pulley, and along with the radiator fans, this makes it kind of a challenge getting the pulley puller in there when taking off the stock one.
The belts I used are nothing fancy,
Drive-Rite
760K6
6PK1930
and
378K4
4PK0960 for the AC.
Did you get the pulley straight from slp's website? I looked at asp's and a few other pulleys but I really liked slp's. If you dont mind me asking, how much did you pay? Im just curious cause I cant do some of the mods I was hoping to do this summer but I can do this one and maybe the cam toward the end. Everyone I have talked to says they notice a difference with the pulley on, do you feel the same. Thanks for your help.
Mike
ps where did you end up getting your belts from??
Last edited by Smokin02WS6; 04-15-2006 at 10:59 PM.
04-15-2006, 10:54 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Smokin02WS6
Did you get the pulley straight from slp's website? I looked at asp's and a few other pulleys but I really liked slp's. If you dont mind me asking, how much did you pay? Im just curious cause I cant do some of the mods I was hoping to do this summer but I can do this one and maybe the LT's toward the end. Everyone I have talked to says they notice a difference with the pulley on, do you feel the same. Thanks for your help.
Mike
ps where did you end up getting your belts from??
Mike
ps where did you end up getting your belts from??
You can buy them from www.texas-speed.com
04-15-2006, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Redneck Z
You can buy them from www.texas-speed.com
04-15-2006, 11:12 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Smokin02WS6
I see you have the powerbond pulley. Which is better, the ASP, Powerbond, or the SLP, or are they all a dime a dozen?
I like the powerbond the best. It's all steal and won't deform like aluminum ones can. It also has higher retaining walls. Some of the aluminum ones have had problems causing KR, and you don't have to worry about this with the powerbond. There are fans of some of the other pulleys, but IMO the powerbond is the nicest one.
I can't stand SLP, but here is what they say about the pulley:
FEATURES:
Extra-tall belt-retention "walls"--no more thrown belts!
No aftermarket tensioner required
100% steel construction
Lighter than the stock balancer
Integral timing marks and puller-mounting threads
Keyed for high-rpm or supercharged applications
Does not cause false knock retard or erratic power-curve dips
Includes a new balancer bolt
04-16-2006, 02:04 AM
#13
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Do you have to replace the alternator pulley, or any other or pulley tensioner. Is i just a simple simgle bolt-on. Remember reading hat someone's car died at idle of a dead battery due to new pulley the owner installed.
04-16-2006, 06:20 AM
#14
Why are you guys still using the old bolt to buck your puller rod up against? Much better to use a large allen head cap screw with some big flat washers. The puller rod is forced to center itself in the hex portion of the cap screw and there is no chance of damaging the crank threads. If you use the OEM bolt the puller rod wants to walk all over the place while you apply pressure to the puller unless you put a dimple of some sort in the bolt head to keep it in place which it to much added work to do.
04-17-2006, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Redneck Z
I like the powerbond the best. It's all steal and won't deform like aluminum ones can. It also has higher retaining walls. Some of the aluminum ones have had problems causing KR, and you don't have to worry about this with the powerbond. There are fans of some of the other pulleys, but IMO the powerbond is the nicest one.
I can't stand SLP, but here is what they say about the pulley:
FEATURES:
Extra-tall belt-retention "walls"--no more thrown belts!
No aftermarket tensioner required
100% steel construction
Lighter than the stock balancer
Integral timing marks and puller-mounting threads
Keyed for high-rpm or supercharged applications
Does not cause false knock retard or erratic power-curve dips
Includes a new balancer bolt
I can't stand SLP, but here is what they say about the pulley:
FEATURES:
Extra-tall belt-retention "walls"--no more thrown belts!
No aftermarket tensioner required
100% steel construction
Lighter than the stock balancer
Integral timing marks and puller-mounting threads
Keyed for high-rpm or supercharged applications
Does not cause false knock retard or erratic power-curve dips
Includes a new balancer bolt
04-18-2006, 08:50 PM
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