96-speed

iTrader: (19)

How strong are the C5 rears?

I grenaded my Fbody's rear end with a good clutch, drag radials, and a measly 330rwhp. Are C5 rear ends stronger that this? Is there anything you can do besides a full upgrade of everything?

Ryan

MICAH HERRON

iTrader: (3)

Well, just like the weak link in the F-body's rear-end, you would have to make some upgrades, but not until you get into the 400rwhp ranges, but it is recommended to get harden output shafts and a DTE tranny brace to protect your rearend. Hope this helps.

SteveDoten@ARH

was at Lebanon Valley, NY, 2 weeks ago; 4 c5's, 2 broke from diff/trans failure; DTE brace and left side hardened output shaft should be standard for any c5's going to the track

96-speed

iTrader: (19)

Were these cars on Slicks? ET Streets? Drag Radials?

I looked on Thunder Racing's website and I see that the upgrades to be around 1500 or 3500 for both output shaft upgrades. Quite a difference!

Ryan

ToplessTexan

I've seen stock powered cars snap output shafts on DRs on a hard launch. Short of upgrading hard parts, stay away from wheel hop and use a soft sidewall tire.

The $3500 option includes a lot more than just the short shaft, it has a lot of labor in it and starts with a new case. I think you can get the short shaft as well now w/o going whole hog.

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

Just doing some digging around, THunder Racing has the DTE brace for under $400, and Lingenfelter has hardened output shafts at about $250 each for L and R side (going off of memory, prices aren't 100% accurate) with a transmission main shaft for approx $550 for the M6 also. That doesn't seem too outlandish if your rear end will hold up under slicks with just a brace and the left and right output shafts.

JR-CRUZN-C5

iTrader: (1)

DTE's version also has a pinion support, stronger Posi packs, AND cryoed & polished gears. I run a 28" tall ET Street, run in the 9's, and lift the tires out of the hole - My DTE rear end has held up for 3 seasons with no problems!

JR

96-speed

iTrader: (19)

Sorry guys, I'm a C5 newb trying to figure out what I'm up against. Are the output shafts a bolton like a driveshaft, or do you have to drop the rear end and "install/setup" the output shafts?

Also, for reference, I am only concerned with M6 cars. I am sure the A4s can get away with much more. Anyone have a "solid" (not indestructable) setup for an M6 with drag radials? Are output shafts and the rear end brace a pretty good defense against 1.8ish 60's and drag radials?

Ryan

Hardtop

iTrader: (3)

Stay away from drag radials. If you make a mistake on a hard launch or wheel hop, boom. If you are going to drag the car look into some biased ply ET Streets. CCW makes a real nice wheel package for C5's. The rear needs to be dropped to change the shafts. Get the drivers side at least, because its the one that usually goes first.

Bruce

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

Uh Oh, Ryans big C5 pimpin

96-speed

iTrader: (19)

Bruce: I'm confused. Don't use drag radials, but use ET Streets? Do you mean to say that if you are going to drag at all, upgrade the rear and go straight to ET Streets?

I like drag radials not only for the launch, but it is nice to catch 2nd gear and keep going forward.

Neilish: Look out for a stock LS1!!

Thanks guys. If anyone has anything else to add, please do. At this point, I think that the general consesus is that C5 IRS = 7.5" 10Bolt as far as strength. First mods will be shifter and complete rear upgrade .

Ryan

Hardtop

iTrader: (3)

The softer sidewall of the ET Streets take the hit of a hard launch better than drag radials. Phil97SVT, and some others tried to talk me out of DR's for my car. I went with 17" MT DR's, on OEM Z06 front wheels. I have a bunch of runs under my belt with my old M6 Z/28. Broke the left output shaft on my first pass down the track. I wasn't even leaving that hard and did not dump the clutch. Replaced it with a hardened shaft. Ranger, and some others have the launch technique down, and have made many passes on DR's. Others have not been so lucky. You need to roll out on the clutch a little to be safe. I'm going to buy a set of 17" bias ply ET Streets for my rims eventually. I will also eventually upgrade the entire rear with a built DTE unit.

Bruce

1BadZo6

iTrader: (1)

How much was the rear set-up all together.. Im thinking about Fully built for mine... I will be putting around 760rwhp with my car as soon as I get the nitrous finished up...

96-speed

iTrader: (19)

Bruce: The softer sidewall absorbs the shock more, which, in turn, transfers even more "hit" into the car. In other words, the stiffer sidewall of the DR will not allow the tires flex. No flex = less traction = "softer" launch. Instead of absorbing the shock like a bia ply tire, the DRs will just spin.

The complete upgrade from Thunder Racing/DTE is ~3500 plus core .

Ryan

GTFORMULA

iTrader: (94)

Well I just bought both the hardened output shafts and gear from Lingenfelter for about 500. Bought the DTE brace for 380. This from what Ive talked to lingenfelter is the strongest and cheapest way to go. They said it should hold 900-1000 horses. I totally agree with the drag style tire ,it will give alittle on the launch and between shifts. It wont shock the rear and trans as bad as a drag radial. It will also hook better. Even with 28" slicks most high powered C-5's will spin alittle off the line so I believe for my twin turbo project I will be "OK" but not bullet proof. Also if your lookin for a clutch that will hold 800+rwhp go to RAM and thier twin disk with 900 series material. It is what Ive gone with and from talking to every clutch maker it was my best option. I would call all of them yourself just to see your needs and get a recommendation.

allngn_c5

iTrader: (3)

LG Motorsports can totally beat that $3500 price, no core either. When you get a level III rear from DTE it is new, not rebuilt and has all the goodies. Cryo treatment, micro polishing etc etc etc. I got mine for around $2800 and sold my used 3.42 to a guy that needed a 3.42 to quicken his dog slow a4 2.73 Made a few hundred on that one, when I had no use in keeping it.

Hardtop

iTrader: (3)

I thought the same thing, while others told me this is wrong. They were right. The soft sidewall does not shock the drivetrain as bad with bias ply. The stiff sidewall of the DR's is what breaks the rears, according to many Vette guys. The MT DR's are no joke and hook like crazy. Phil said he broke a few rears with DR's, and now runs bias ET Streets. He has cut some 1.4X 60's with a M6. Not sure how that rear holds together, but the tires are part of it.

Bruce

96-speed

iTrader: (19)

Bruce: Does this have something to do with the IRS? If not, it would apply for all cars, not just vettes, right? From my experiences with drag racing Fbodys (7 years), my hypothesis holds true.

Ryan

MGorman

This seems to be true just for IRS. The (C5) Vette rear is WAY stronger than the F-body rear. If you hook up with a slick or Et street on an F-body rear the rear will usually break if you get traction because it is small and weak. The Vette rear is much stronger. It tends to break when shocked or wheel hopped, not from power and traction. You car break a Vette rear with a stock motor and clutch on a drag radial if you shock it or wheel hop it, but it will hold up to many 9 second ¼ mile runs on ET streets or slicks.

96-speed

iTrader: (19)

Counterintuitive for sure!

Ryan