60' Talk - If you're already hooking...
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60' Talk - If you're already hooking...
If you're already hooking for the most part, how much of a benefit are additional suspension components? I have to get my 60' down some.
I'm still on the stock LCAs (with relocation brackets) and stock torque arm. I have a MTI T1 cam 221/221 .558/.558 112 and a 4000 stall usually running on 26x11.5x16 ET Streets and only cut 1.68-1.69 60' times at 3550 lbs raceweight. Running stock springs, Koni SA shocks set on full soft, one swaybar endlink disconnected, and 17x9 wheels up front with 275 radials currently.
I usually hook and go so I'm wondering how I can get my 60' times down because I've tried all launch techniques and it does the same number no matter what. Planning on slicks and skinnies, lightweight race seats, and trying to get some more weight off the nose of the car as well as a bigger cam (something in the 230+ duration with newer lobe technology). I'd like to see some 1.5X 60' times so I'm looking for all the help I can get.
I'm still on the stock LCAs (with relocation brackets) and stock torque arm. I have a MTI T1 cam 221/221 .558/.558 112 and a 4000 stall usually running on 26x11.5x16 ET Streets and only cut 1.68-1.69 60' times at 3550 lbs raceweight. Running stock springs, Koni SA shocks set on full soft, one swaybar endlink disconnected, and 17x9 wheels up front with 275 radials currently.
I usually hook and go so I'm wondering how I can get my 60' times down because I've tried all launch techniques and it does the same number no matter what. Planning on slicks and skinnies, lightweight race seats, and trying to get some more weight off the nose of the car as well as a bigger cam (something in the 230+ duration with newer lobe technology). I'd like to see some 1.5X 60' times so I'm looking for all the help I can get.
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Getting as much weight off the front of your car will give you the most benefit. That will also shift your CG towards the rear of the car too! I'd probably keep the stock springs in the rear and get some soft ones for the front. Skinnies will help out alot too( close to a tenth probably). Take the front sway bar off completely. With that done I don't see why you couldn't get in the 1.5's. Good luck. -Mark
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You really think so gator? My little cam probably only gave me 25rwhp. Something like an MS3 would probably give me close to double what my little T1 gave me. I have thought about throwing on a set of very good heads (most likely CNCd Darts) and maybe an LSx 90/90 combo, but dont know if thats overkill for my little cam or not. I do like the drivability of my little T1 but I wouldnt mind a little more lope too. And something with a little more exhaust duration that might be a bit more suited to a little giggle gas wouldn't hurt either.
With LCAs and an adjustable TA do you think I'd really see some benefits at the track? I guess I'll need them in the future so I might as well get them and find out. I was just wondering if I'm at the point where I need to add more power or add more suspension.
With LCAs and an adjustable TA do you think I'd really see some benefits at the track? I guess I'll need them in the future so I might as well get them and find out. I was just wondering if I'm at the point where I need to add more power or add more suspension.
#5
If you usually hook then your suspension is fine for the power you're making. Why would you do anything if you're already hooking?
If you add power and are having a problem with traction you could start with boxed or tubular control arms and a solid mount torque arm and take it from there.
If you add power and are having a problem with traction you could start with boxed or tubular control arms and a solid mount torque arm and take it from there.
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Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
dont change the cam. you will be dissappointed in how little gains you get.
get the supension parts. start with lcas and an adj tq arm to give yourself some negative pinion angle.
get the supension parts. start with lcas and an adj tq arm to give yourself some negative pinion angle.
I'l agree with that. My gains were minimal changing to a huge cam from a smaller aftermarket cam.
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#8
if you are still running with the front sway bar on take it off, it really dropped my 60 fts, all i have is lca and sfc for suspension and i pulled a 1.57 60 ft with my SI car, it was lighter though at 3365, trust me the sway bar off the front really helped my 60ft, good luck
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the big cams make more power from only 6000 rpms and up. this does not affect ET or MPH. think area under the curve. we want the most average power.
change cams if you want. but i am just saying it has very little effect on what you really want to change. now if you want more on the dyno graph at 6600 rpms....well lol.
besides like i said before, high 1.6s are not hooking for that combo. 1.55 60' should be no problem on a good track.
change cams if you want. but i am just saying it has very little effect on what you really want to change. now if you want more on the dyno graph at 6600 rpms....well lol.
besides like i said before, high 1.6s are not hooking for that combo. 1.55 60' should be no problem on a good track.
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The car doesn't spin, I just cant figure out why it wont 60'. Thats my dilemma. I can go WOT off idle or stall it up against the brakes and drop the hammer, either way 1.68-1.69 is all it's doing. I'm guessing it has something to do with my weight and gearing more than anything, and a little more stall probably wouldn't hurt. The thing is, I'm already running a 4000 TCI stall and dont want to go much higher as I want to spray the car and I'm thinking my 4000 stall might be too big already (shifting at 6400rpm currently, and the car makes very flat power from 5000-shift which I why I think a bigger cam might pick up the top end power more).
What exactly is your setup gator (heads, cam, stall, gearing, weight, spray setup)?
Maybe I should just get a set of really well flowing heads like AFR 205s or Darts, get a little more gear under the car, and throw on a Fast setup with a DP NX 150 shot. I'd still like a little more cam though and the 221/221 isn't exactly ideal for nitrous anyway.
What exactly is your setup gator (heads, cam, stall, gearing, weight, spray setup)?
Maybe I should just get a set of really well flowing heads like AFR 205s or Darts, get a little more gear under the car, and throw on a Fast setup with a DP NX 150 shot. I'd still like a little more cam though and the 221/221 isn't exactly ideal for nitrous anyway.
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Well, 1.500 for me, stock internal, full weight, and 350 RWHP. I don't think changing the cam is where you need to be looking.
LCA's are a big help, do the Torque arm too. Dialling in the pinion angle is a huge help. Try a right side air bag, it helped me. Pull all the weight off the nose you can, especially the sway. I run QA1's with front drag springs, really helps the weight transfer.
Good luck!
LCA's are a big help, do the Torque arm too. Dialling in the pinion angle is a huge help. Try a right side air bag, it helped me. Pull all the weight off the nose you can, especially the sway. I run QA1's with front drag springs, really helps the weight transfer.
Good luck!
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TCI SSF 4000 stall
Stock 10 bolt out of a M6 car (3.42 gears)
I guess I didn't add this into my original post, but this question is mainly because I'm wondering if I'm loosing alot of my 60' in the suspension from squat and things flexing a little rather than if I had LCAs and a TA where it would put the power to the tires more. Granted I hook now but I'm not 60' very good at all. LCAs and a TA might cause me not to hook until I get everything dialed in, but might put more power to the actual tires so that I could really get some 60' times out of the car.
Slicks and skinnies, removed swaybar, RR airbag, and relocated battery will all help and that stuff will be done before Fall comes around but with things the way they are I still dont see any 1.5 60' times out of the car the way it sits. I really like my spring/shock setup and would hate to change it (Koni SAs on full soft, stock springs which are 300# springs). I did have a HAL F-series setup a while back and it didn't help me out at all at the track, but that was when I was stock internal on a crappy 3200 stall and 2.73 gears so that may have had something to do with it.
Stock 10 bolt out of a M6 car (3.42 gears)
I guess I didn't add this into my original post, but this question is mainly because I'm wondering if I'm loosing alot of my 60' in the suspension from squat and things flexing a little rather than if I had LCAs and a TA where it would put the power to the tires more. Granted I hook now but I'm not 60' very good at all. LCAs and a TA might cause me not to hook until I get everything dialed in, but might put more power to the actual tires so that I could really get some 60' times out of the car.
Slicks and skinnies, removed swaybar, RR airbag, and relocated battery will all help and that stuff will be done before Fall comes around but with things the way they are I still dont see any 1.5 60' times out of the car the way it sits. I really like my spring/shock setup and would hate to change it (Koni SAs on full soft, stock springs which are 300# springs). I did have a HAL F-series setup a while back and it didn't help me out at all at the track, but that was when I was stock internal on a crappy 3200 stall and 2.73 gears so that may have had something to do with it.