damn coolant lines.........
06-02-2006, 02:49 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
damn coolant lines......... well "was" going to do my cam and ls6 intake swap this weekend but no one has the cover in stock. i can get the coolant pipe but no cover............any ideas or am i screwed?
06-02-2006, 03:25 PM
#4
I recently read a post by someone who kept the rearmost coolant lines, they only had to crush them down a bit with a ahammer to get them to fit under the intake. They may have had to clearance the intake just a little bit as well with a dremel if memory serves.
06-02-2006, 04:13 PM
#5
12 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,898
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've heard that if you take your time, you can dremel the crosshatch plastic pattern on the bottom of the LS6 intake to fit the LS1 coolant lines.
Rob (Bad30th)
Rob (Bad30th)
Trending Topics
06-02-2006, 07:32 PM
#8
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
is their any pics i can look at to see what your talking about? I really would like to not make the drive if i dont have too. I have the LS6 Pipes, just dont have the plugs.
THX
THX
06-02-2006, 07:38 PM
#9
Check out ls1howto: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5
This pic shows a coolant pipe the guy plugged up and made himself.
http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii...//IMAGE013.jpg
you could probably make one out of the stock lines. Really you only need those two blocks at the end without any of the metal piping. You could possibly cut them and plug them up real well.
This pic shows a coolant pipe the guy plugged up and made himself.
http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii...//IMAGE013.jpg
you could probably make one out of the stock lines. Really you only need those two blocks at the end without any of the metal piping. You could possibly cut them and plug them up real well.
06-02-2006, 08:05 PM
#11
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Aight guys, i need a little more help. In this pic
http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii...//IMAGE011.jpg
There is that large looking pipe in front of the LS6 intake. I do not have that. All i have is one pipe with one rubber hose on it. THIS pic.
http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii...//IMAGE013.jpg
Do i need more than this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^?
http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii...//IMAGE011.jpg
There is that large looking pipe in front of the LS6 intake. I do not have that. All i have is one pipe with one rubber hose on it. THIS pic.
http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii...//IMAGE013.jpg
Do i need more than this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^?
06-02-2006, 08:15 PM
#13
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HMM. Al i have is one of the pipes with the rubber hose hanging off it. I did not know i needed two. Is the long contious pipe the stock one? Can i cut that one up, use it for the rear and block it off? Using the LS6 one i baught for the front?
06-02-2006, 08:19 PM
#14
Originally Posted by killaz
HMM. Al i have is one of the pipes with the rubber hose hanging off it. I did not know i needed two. Is the long contious pipe the stock one? Can i cut that one up, use it for the rear and block it off? Using the LS6 one i baught for the front?
06-02-2006, 10:10 PM
#15
In "How to Build High Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8's" in states that pre-LS6 engines had the steam vent lines to improve cooling in cylinder 7 because of detonation problems in that hole.
We also know that if a piston goes it's usually number 7, with the theory that it's the intake design that causes that cylinder to run lean and detonate causing premature failure of number 7.
After reading what the author has to say about the issue and the fact that GM put the vent lines on both ends of the block I'm inclined to agree that it's improper cooling that causes breakage in number 7.
To reconnect the lines from front to rear it is suggested that some slight grinding is required on the stiffening ribs on the bottom side of the intake.
I think running a small rubber hose along either side the intake would work as well. I'm going to reinstall mine since my block is not forged yet and since I am running an ATI charger.
If you don't think that proper venting of the steam lines back to the radiator is not needed or won't cause overheating or elevated coolant temps, just switch the lines and I guarantee you will overheat.
A mechanic switched mine by mistake: the steam vent line to the radiator cap overflow and the overflow tube into the radiator steam vent inlet tube.
We also know that if a piston goes it's usually number 7, with the theory that it's the intake design that causes that cylinder to run lean and detonate causing premature failure of number 7.
After reading what the author has to say about the issue and the fact that GM put the vent lines on both ends of the block I'm inclined to agree that it's improper cooling that causes breakage in number 7.
To reconnect the lines from front to rear it is suggested that some slight grinding is required on the stiffening ribs on the bottom side of the intake.
I think running a small rubber hose along either side the intake would work as well. I'm going to reinstall mine since my block is not forged yet and since I am running an ATI charger.
If you don't think that proper venting of the steam lines back to the radiator is not needed or won't cause overheating or elevated coolant temps, just switch the lines and I guarantee you will overheat.
A mechanic switched mine by mistake: the steam vent line to the radiator cap overflow and the overflow tube into the radiator steam vent inlet tube.
06-02-2006, 10:19 PM
#16
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So are you saying it would be a good idea, to cut out the center portion of the stock cooling line and replace it with a little bit longer of a rubber hose, and to run it on the side of the ls6 intake? This sounds like it might be a good idea? Anyone like to chime in?
06-02-2006, 11:21 PM
#17
Until someone can prove to me that the firewall end of the heads run cooler than the front side, I personnally think the steam vent lines should be attached on both ends (especially since GM put them there in the first place).
Honestly, since I didn't do the heads/cam LS1/LS6 swap on my motor I never realized mine had been removed. I found out about the steam vent lines when reading the book mentioned previously when I was researching how to stop my overheating.
Reverse engine cooling thru the heads first works better too, but I recall GM had to quit doing that because of a patent rights lawsuit with Evans.
Meziere might be onto something also, since the flow through their electric pump runs differently then the stock water pump.
Honestly, since I didn't do the heads/cam LS1/LS6 swap on my motor I never realized mine had been removed. I found out about the steam vent lines when reading the book mentioned previously when I was researching how to stop my overheating.
Reverse engine cooling thru the heads first works better too, but I recall GM had to quit doing that because of a patent rights lawsuit with Evans.
Meziere might be onto something also, since the flow through their electric pump runs differently then the stock water pump.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 06-02-2006 at 11:29 PM.
