What drill bit size are you guys using for the TB plate for idle?
04-21-2003, 03:37 PM
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What drill bit size are you guys using for the TB plate for idle? I don't have problems stalling but it does dip at times coming to a stop. Also, on hot start it dips for about 3 or 4 seconds. None of this is a major concern, merely a minor annoyance. Just curious before I start drillin' <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
04-21-2003, 06:20 PM
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Re: What drill bit size are you guys using for the TB plate for idle? Best off to try adjusting the idle stop screw
first, and see if you can get what you want
without having the TPS go above idle threshold
(0.5V?). Screw at least you can put back. You
can also mess with the TPS holes, slot 'em, if
you need to mess the TPS angle around afterward.
first, and see if you can get what you want
without having the TPS go above idle threshold
(0.5V?). Screw at least you can put back. You
can also mess with the TPS holes, slot 'em, if
you need to mess the TPS angle around afterward.
04-21-2003, 06:39 PM
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Re: What drill bit size are you guys using for the TB plate for idle? There's something else that occurs to me here.
Looking at my old (new stock) TB's IAC inlet
port, it seems to me that you could drill a
pilot hole straight down from the top, just
left of the upper mounting bolt, up next to
the "wall" between the IAC and PCV ports.
Maybe a 9/64" hole; then tap the part of this
hole that's through the upper wall of the
casting for a #8/32 or #8/40 bolt. Now you'd
have an actual idle air bleed screw, if you
bottom it against the hole you have no air,
if you back it off you add air behind the
throttle plate.
The casting's pretty thin there, so the screw
might end up being a little wobbly. There might
well be an even slicker place to do this kind
of thing, might take two drill tunnels or some
such. Maybe that blind relief you can see from
the back side, drill from there to the throttle
bore from the bore, and from the PCV port side
to that blind hole, for air feed, and tap the
outer PCV wall; that's plenty beefy. And there,
since you don't have to worry about interfering
with the blade, you could use an idle screw with
the conical taper; maybe off an old Q-Jet, for
some nostalgia value <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> as well as finer air
metering.
Just think - an actual adjustment you can make
with a screwdriver! That oughtta be illegal. <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
<small>[ April 21, 2003, 06:45 PM: Message edited by: jimmyblue ]</small>
Looking at my old (new stock) TB's IAC inlet
port, it seems to me that you could drill a
pilot hole straight down from the top, just
left of the upper mounting bolt, up next to
the "wall" between the IAC and PCV ports.
Maybe a 9/64" hole; then tap the part of this
hole that's through the upper wall of the
casting for a #8/32 or #8/40 bolt. Now you'd
have an actual idle air bleed screw, if you
bottom it against the hole you have no air,
if you back it off you add air behind the
throttle plate.
The casting's pretty thin there, so the screw
might end up being a little wobbly. There might
well be an even slicker place to do this kind
of thing, might take two drill tunnels or some
such. Maybe that blind relief you can see from
the back side, drill from there to the throttle
bore from the bore, and from the PCV port side
to that blind hole, for air feed, and tap the
outer PCV wall; that's plenty beefy. And there,
since you don't have to worry about interfering
with the blade, you could use an idle screw with
the conical taper; maybe off an old Q-Jet, for
some nostalgia value <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> as well as finer air
metering.
Just think - an actual adjustment you can make
with a screwdriver! That oughtta be illegal. <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
<small>[ April 21, 2003, 06:45 PM: Message edited by: jimmyblue ]</small>
