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Should i pull motor for heads,cam swap?

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Old 09-12-2006, 01:55 PM
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Default Should i pull motor for heads,cam swap?

Should i pull the motor for a head and cam swap, or just do it in the car. i've heard its just as easy to pull the motor. i have a friend with a lift so that would make it esier. i'm using arp studs too so that would be hard to do in the car.
Old 09-12-2006, 02:11 PM
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I Would Say Do It In The Car.. But Thats Just Me, You Pull The Motor From The Top Be Ready To Pull The Tranny Off, Just More Work..
Old 09-12-2006, 02:14 PM
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dont pull the motor
Old 09-12-2006, 02:16 PM
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ya dont pull the motor for heads and cam. only when you need to put a crank in will you have to pull the motor out.but for heads and cam install make sure and have a full weekend to do it..
Old 09-12-2006, 03:25 PM
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You shouldn't have a problem doing the heads with the motor in the car, even with the studs. If you needed more clearance, you could always drop the motor mounts and lower the engine down with a jack.

I've taken mine off before, with the studs, but I dont have A/C crap on the car, or the AIR stuff.
Old 09-12-2006, 03:54 PM
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thanks i was thinking i should do it in the car. thanks guys
Old 09-12-2006, 05:00 PM
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pull the motor. it will be 23456783456789xs easier to work on out of the car. removing the motor from the car isnt that big of a deal (ive done it). to do your rod bolts you are going to have to disconect the motor mounts and either jack up the motor or drop down the cross memeber or both. by that time you are more than halfway to just removing the motor. working on the back (anything really) head bolts is a female pooch. i had a friend that broke off a head bolt trying to do his head/cam swap in the car
Old 09-12-2006, 07:10 PM
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when cleaning the deck and head bolt holes,i just sat down in the engine compartment..The flat rail above the radiator makes a good seat and the front swaybar is a good foot rest.
Old 09-13-2006, 12:21 AM
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Id say with a hoist DEFENITLY drop the eng/trans out the bottom. you can have the eng/trans/suspension sitting on the floor in about 2.5 hours and think how easy it will be to replace the heads and install that cam that way. it'll take alittle longer to reinstall the eng/trans/suspension becsause of having to fill everything and bleed the brakes but trust me its easier to do it that way. Ive done it both ways. the radiator/fans/ac condensor will stay up in the car, and no leaning over the fenders for everything you do. and, this is the best way to do a real quality job and get all the harness's back exactly how they were before.
it can be done the conventional way, but why if you have access to a hoist? oh yeah, and, all you gotta take off the exh. is disconnect the ypipe from the cat back system. you can lower teh eng with the headers/ypipe still on the engine.
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Old 09-13-2006, 12:26 AM
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sorry for the size. I dont have a clue how to resize pic.s. anyways you dont have to take the suspension apart like I ahve it there either. just take out the 2 nuts and 2 bolts on top of the strut/shock and take out the 4 bolts holding the uclamps of the front sway bar and leave the end links attached to the control arms. you will have to remove 2 brake pipes from the abs motor pack.
Old 09-13-2006, 12:28 AM
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Dropping the engine is an assload of work just for a heads cam install. However, it's easier than heck to work on the engine when its out of the car, obviously. You're first time, you're looking at at least 6 hours. Took me two days to drop my motor, but that was with some bullshitting along the way.
Old 09-13-2006, 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Ferocity02
Dropping the engine is an assload of work.
that is the bottom line here. You can practically leave your A/C installed. Don't pull the engine.
Old 09-13-2006, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
that is the bottom line here. You can practically leave your A/C installed. Don't pull the engine.
Yep, didn't unhook any of my A/C sytem, unbolted the compressor and ziptied it out of the way, slick way of doing it.



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