Forged 347 vs. forged 383 vs. 402
10-27-2006, 08:38 AM
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Forged 347 vs. forged 383 vs. 402 I'm thinking the 347 as of now, i'd like some FI later down the road for fun. What's your guys opinions? I'm on a budget and would like to keep it cheap. So what i'm asking from you guys is...
1. What would YOU choose and why, keep in mind i'm on a budget.
2. Now knowing what you would do, what is the best ( and cheapest ) way of going about this?
3.5. Is it pointless to do forged pistons, rods etc. while still keeping my original block how it is? or is it smarter or the only way to buy a forged short block and rotating assembly.
3. Price guesstimates
4. Advantages/disadvantages of each in your opinion.
5. Finally does anyone know a site or a reference list that would list all of the parts etc. that need to be replaced in a rebuild, and what all parts are forged?
Thanks
1. What would YOU choose and why, keep in mind i'm on a budget.
2. Now knowing what you would do, what is the best ( and cheapest ) way of going about this?
3.5. Is it pointless to do forged pistons, rods etc. while still keeping my original block how it is? or is it smarter or the only way to buy a forged short block and rotating assembly.
3. Price guesstimates
4. Advantages/disadvantages of each in your opinion.
5. Finally does anyone know a site or a reference list that would list all of the parts etc. that need to be replaced in a rebuild, and what all parts are forged?
Thanks
10-27-2006, 09:48 AM
#2
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Budget is the word here, so stay 347 and maximize your dineros on that.
Forged is the way to go but not necessary if no power adder.
As for the rest of your Qs, just read around on poeple's combos.
Forged is the way to go but not necessary if no power adder.
As for the rest of your Qs, just read around on poeple's combos.
10-27-2006, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Budget is the word here, so stay 347 and maximize your dineros on that.
Forged is the way to go but not necessary if no power adder.
As for the rest of your Qs, just read around on poeple's combos.
Forged is the way to go but not necessary if no power adder.
As for the rest of your Qs, just read around on poeple's combos.
10-27-2006, 11:48 AM
#5
If I did it all over agian I wouldnt forge my bottom end because I have just seem too many people putting down 550-600+whp on SI. Just get the blower/turbo now and save for a forged 402+ later down the road when you have enough money to do it all right. Oh ya and take what ever you plan on spending and double it-because thats how much it will be in the end 
10-27-2006, 12:26 PM
#7
I built a LS6 347cid. and all i did was ,put forged rods and pistons with a stock crank and had it all balanced and i crank it 7800 rpms every time i run it,(not drive it) with no problems at all for over three years now. But time to go bigger ,change motor tonight to my new LS2 418cid.
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10-27-2006, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by NoGamesLS1
If I did it all over agian I wouldnt forge my bottom end because I have just seem too many people putting down 550-600+whp on SI. Just get the blower/turbo now and save for a forged 402+ later down the road when you have enough money to do it all right. Oh ya and take what ever you plan on spending and double it-because thats how much it will be in the end
ps what is si 
10-27-2006, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cerebrex
you already have stock internals...... ..... .... ............
10-27-2006, 03:15 PM
#14
You don't have top replace the pistons on a rebuild. You could pull everything and have it honed to have a good seating surface for new rings and reuse you old rotating assy. Definitely the cheapest route but i wouldn't recommend. I have spun bearings in two different SI set-ups because of cap walk, and the other because the stock rods were out of round. Forge it so you know it is safe.
10-27-2006, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by greatwhitess
You don't have top replace the pistons on a rebuild. You could pull everything and have it honed to have a good seating surface for new rings and reuse you old rotating assy. Definitely the cheapest route but i wouldn't recommend. I have spun bearings in two different SI set-ups because of cap walk, and the other because the stock rods were out of round. Forge it so you know it is safe.
10-27-2006, 03:28 PM
#16
Forged 346/347 block FTW! As someone else posted tsp has good deals on them and since your planning FI in the future then you shoudl def go forged. I would say sell you stock block (should get anywhere from 500-1000 depending on condition) and get a new assembled forged short block as it will be a lot easier to buy it completely assembled rather than having to do the machine work and assembly yourself.
10-27-2006, 04:07 PM
#18
Originally Posted by 99camarosupersport
I didn't know it was even possible to forge the aluminum blocks until someone posted this TSP stuff gah i feel like an idiot.
gah i feel like an idiot.
10-27-2006, 05:31 PM
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Just so you know, they don't forge the actual block, just all the components inside it. I would probably go with a forged LS2 402 because the price is not too much more than an equivelant LS1 346. I have never ordered a motor before, so I could be totally wrong.
How did you plan on going FI? S/C or Turbo?
The thread on the TC76 makes me drool.
How did you plan on going FI? S/C or Turbo?
The thread on the TC76 makes me drool.