94lt1m6

iTrader: (9)

My GF is getting me a gift card for my b-day. Either to Jegs or Summit, I dont know which one yet. Which mod will give me the best results.

K&N CAI with a HP MAS

LT's, ORY, Borla XR-1 Muffler

MSD ignition, Coil

Crane Cam

Does JEgs or Summit have more/better/cheaper LT1 Parts?

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

LT's ORY and muffler.

PunishedU

iTrader: (1)

LT's and ORY + catback will definately be best for you as far as gains. But that is way more expensive than a CAI. If you want something cheap a K&N will definately be good to have but exhaust is they way to go if you have more to spend.

93 blackformy

iTrader: (1)

I take it your completely stock?

I think the best mod would be (but its not up there) a K&N CAI and a borla cat bacK...or whatever brand ya like

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

yes, you cant just buy a cam. i mean, thats a lot of work to do if you dont have the heads to support it or exhaust or enough air coming in so on and so forth. you must open up the mouth and butthole first.

94lt1m6

iTrader: (9)

lol open up your mouth and butthole? I have nevr heard it called that before but ok. if i get the headers how hard will it be to delete the emmisions ****?

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Start with the basics, CAI, free mods like tb by pass, plug the intake, straight pipe for the CAT, then headers, to a cat back

zigroid

iTrader: (22)

the air pump is easy to remove. the pipe that runs from side to side will be tough. if you dont plan on reusing it again, cut it out. I think it attaches near the rear of the A/C bracket and also to the AIR pump itself.
the EGR is pretty simple too. you'll need to remove the EGR valve on the back of the intake and the pipe next to it. then you'll have to either buy EGR block off plates or make your own (not hard to do.)
you might want to look into getting a tune for the full exhaust and EGR/AIR delete. if you're gonna get gears in the near future wait until they are installed so you can correct your speedo at the same time.

as for a CAI, don't waste your money on a new one. go look on ebay or in the for sale forums here for a used one. moroso and K&N are supposed to be good. I had an SLP cai and I didnt really care for it.

one more suggestion: instead of a borla XR-1 muffler, spend the money on an electric cut out. that way it will be loud and free flowing when you want it and quiet when you want it. just keep the stock catback on there.

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

if you want a cold air intake for a steal, send me a pm. i bought a brand new k&n fipk and had it on my car for about a week then i put a new oversized aluminum radiator on the car and it took up much of the space the intake uses. so i had to come up with something else.

so i have a basically brand new k&n fipk just chillin, all you need is a filter for it, i used the filter on my custom intake. filters about 30 bucks. shoot me a pm if you are interested. i will cut you a deal.

UA-Plumber

iTrader: (2)

exhaust

94lt1m6

iTrader: (9)

jegs or summit?

Hot94Z28

Try one of the sponcers on here. I ordered some stuff from www.Ws6store.com I really liked the service.

hyperzone

Exhaust. You will get some gains but, most of all, you will get to hear the results of your efforts every time you stomp on it. A cam would be good but, need to have all the other stuff in order for that to be worthwhile.

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

I would start with the suspension first. You will gain more from working on it than from small bolt on's. I would get the Energy Suspension torque arm bushing, Lakewood rear control arms and adjustable pan hard rod bar, and the KYB 5 way adjustable struts. For the rear springs you can go to your local parts store and get a set for a 79' Chevy Monza with the V-8 motor. These are about $42 here in NM. This set of rear springs are the right heigth and diameter but a much softer spring rate. My freind had a set of Eibach drag launch springs and got rid of them for this set because they helped him 60 ft better. With the rest of the sugested suspension parts your car with actually handle better than what your car would stock for a bonus.

Ryan34

Just out of curiosity, how does a softer spring rate help your launch? Also how do those springs affect handling?

Ls1Bait

I would pass on the aftermarket mass air flow sensor. I have one, put it on for like 5 mins and took it off. Some people say u have to tune for it but I dont know how.

Chris95Z

iTrader: (3)

you'll likely lose cornering stability to a great extent, but for drag it has to do with weight transfer, rwd automatically shifts weight to the rear if ya stomp on it, goot suspension will help your traction because it can absorb the load. Lowered cars usually have trouble getting off the line because the rear suspension can't handle the weight transfer esp with stiffer springs, and therefore spinning results. It will not help you after you get moving. Depending on budget, low go for cai, high exhaust. Doing a cam swap is going to require way more than the cam itself

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

The rear springs don't help you with your cornering ability, the new lower control arms and pan hard rod bar do. The stock pan hard rod bar and lower control arm's are weak and flex a lot!! The new parts that I recommended are tubular and have poly bushings in the eyelets. As for helping with the launch with the new rear springs, it lets the vehicle transfer more weight to the rear axle. The more weight that you can place on your rear end of the vehicle the harder it recoils(for lack of a better word) off of the starting line. That is why GM put a torque arm on the F-body. The more weight that is placed on the rearend the more the rear diff wants to turn down towards the ground, killing pinion angle and forward bite. With the torque arm in place it helps keep the rearend centered forcing the car to move forward instead. That is why I recommended the poly torque arm bushing, because the stock rubber one is not up to the task. Really it would be best to go with BMR Fabrication's Extreme duty torque arm, keeping the flex off of the transmission tail housing and haveing less flex of the torque arm itself.

94z28L

iTrader: (4)

i would go to a stiffer rear spring for a drag car. you do not want the car to squat outta the hole

The LT1 That Could

iTrader: (3)

a cam will not do near as much do a stock "breathing" car. Get a CAI, or build one for that matter....and get a free flowing exhaust.

from your choices i selected LTs, ORY, Borla....altho I would recommend a true dual.....Long Tubes and True Duals are incredible!! but I am biased!