Cylinder Head problem??
11-25-2006, 09:23 AM
#1
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Cylinder Head problem?? I recently drained and flushed my cooling system on my 95 Z-28 but it
continues to become a brown and rusty color within minutes! I was told
that I could have a bad cylinder head (i.e. CO bleeding into coolant). If
that is true how can I troubleshoot this problem and has it caused any further problems? My heater core is plugged up.
Patrick
continues to become a brown and rusty color within minutes! I was told
that I could have a bad cylinder head (i.e. CO bleeding into coolant). If
that is true how can I troubleshoot this problem and has it caused any further problems? My heater core is plugged up.
Patrick
11-25-2006, 09:45 AM
#2
Originally Posted by patcam
(i.e. CO bleeding into coolant). Patrick
What is CO? Anyways if the inside of your block and radiater have gotten well coated with brown gunk etc, from having bad water in the system it could take an extra amount of flushing to get it out. Flushing may never competely clean out the inside of the block. Do you use distilled water?
11-25-2006, 09:52 AM
#3
I would park your car right next to a waterhose. open your radiator and put the water hose in it . Turn on the water and let the car run while the fresh water cleans the system out. I did this on my old motor and it took about 15minutes for the water to go from brown to clear. after it goes clear put strait antifreeze in your motor. The brown is corrosion in your motor from using too much water and not enough antifreeze. The water you are probably using has a lot of minerals in it and they help the rust and corrosion process inside the engine block. besides if you had a cylinder head problem your car would overheat. Strait antifreeze ensures great conditioning to the engine block and the water pump seals and hoses and the radiator. Strait water will only crack and dryrot your vital cooling components.
11-25-2006, 09:57 AM
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You can have a combustion leak test performed (chemical check for combustion gases in the coolant)
However, I believe the instant color change you describe means you still have corrosion in you cooling system.
DO NOT USE straight antifreeze/coolant.
However, I believe the instant color change you describe means you still have corrosion in you cooling system.
DO NOT USE straight antifreeze/coolant.
11-25-2006, 10:00 AM
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CO is carbon monoxide from exhaust gases, so I've been told. I flushed the
system thoroughly until clear. However after engine runs it turns brown. I do
not know enough about reverse flow cooling systems and I do not understand
how exhaust gas can get mixed-in with coolant.
Patrick
system thoroughly until clear. However after engine runs it turns brown. I do
not know enough about reverse flow cooling systems and I do not understand
how exhaust gas can get mixed-in with coolant.
Patrick
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11-25-2006, 10:19 AM
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What do you mean by "my heater core is plugged up"? Is it bypassed or just clogged? It's really not that hard to get to. It kind of sounds like what happens when you mix the orange and green coolants, it can kind of gel up and get stuck in the rad, block and core and it's tough to flush out. Theres some coolant flush stuff you can get at any parts store you flush and fill with straight water, add it in then drive for a few miles, then flush and fill as usual.
11-25-2006, 11:13 AM
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Antifreeze is designed to be used in conjunction with water. 100% antifreeze will cause overheating and actually has a higher freezing point than when mixed with water. It is only effective in the range of 44-67%. That's straight from my text-book.
11-25-2006, 11:25 AM
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Water is, from what I remember, actually a better coolant. Problem is, it lacks lubricative properties. I think you can use barsleak in conjunction with water, to help it lube the water pump, but unless you live in the south, it's not so good.
Now the other reason, and a bit more of the main reason, you add coolant to water, is to keep it's boil point down.
Now I'm not "mater-o-fact"ing that info, but I'm pretty sure those are the two primary reasons.
Now the other reason, and a bit more of the main reason, you add coolant to water, is to keep it's boil point down.
Now I'm not "mater-o-fact"ing that info, but I'm pretty sure those are the two primary reasons.
11-25-2006, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ZEX-Z
Straight antifreeze has special chemicals in it to help keep engines cool. Does water?No. H2O 2 elements. Antifreeze....... about 100.
Do a google search. You'll find out that you're mistaken.
Mike
11-25-2006, 02:10 PM
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It appears that the heater core might be partially plugged-up internaly not
bypassed. Both lines to and from are warm to touch but very little heat
coming from heater. The car has Dexcool in it, but with the motor
swap there could have been some green coolant in the block.
bypassed. Both lines to and from are warm to touch but very little heat
coming from heater. The car has Dexcool in it, but with the motor
swap there could have been some green coolant in the block.
11-25-2006, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by foggedz
One reason you should not use straight anti freeze is because it does not cool as good as water.
never to late to learn something new...
If you can use DISTILLED water and add a pellet or two of the GM additive that helps to lap the waterpump seals and prevent leaks....
11-25-2006, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by patcam
It appears that the heater core might be partially plugged-up internaly not
bypassed. Both lines to and from are warm to touch but very little heat
coming from heater. The car has Dexcool in it, but with the motor
swap there could have been some green coolant in the block.
bypassed. Both lines to and from are warm to touch but very little heat
coming from heater. The car has Dexcool in it, but with the motor
swap there could have been some green coolant in the block.
Dex and regular green coolant are not compatable. If it were my car I'd flush that sucker some more, then I'd use a universal coolant.
Mike