dalez28

iTrader: (1)

I know it is not a very cut and dry question about the drivetrain in these cars but I was looking at one and wanted to do some upgrades but dont know much about the limits of the drivetrain.

This would be an '04 c5 with a a4... I am thinking of doing a head cam package but dont want to kill the IRS in the process.

So generally whats the consensus for hp/ torq. limits when you start needing to thing about upgrading parts????

Sorry if this question is dumb, but I searched and nothing really just says a simple # or ballpark #.

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

There's no set amount of power that does "x"

Just mod your car and fix/upgrade everything as you break stuff.

That's basically all you can do.

Hell I drove a cammed, twin turbo LS1 using the stock LS6 clutch and the original clutch now has 48k miles!

jdhommert

iTrader: (2)

Well ithink more can be explained on this. I know a lot about fbodies drivetrain, and the limits, but know very little about limits of the rear end of the Vette. I know its supposed to be stronger, but i dont know how much stronger. If you take a stock lsx Fbody to the track with drag radials, in a M6, your probably going to break your 10 bolt. Its a fact of life. 10 bolts aren't even strong enough for the car as it was built, stock.

I think C5 rear ends are stronger, but how much stronger? Will they or can they still break with stock power and drag radials? What power levels, or most importantly, what et/ 60' time do most people start breaking them at?

itsfast

iTrader: (1)

My transmission gave out after running about a month with 510rwhp. I launched several times pulling a best of 1.58 60's and many many 1.6x 60's and never had a problem with my 3.42 rear diff. (stock 3.42 from a M6) [based on my '00 A4 C5]

I think you'd be fine with heads/cam putting down 430-440rwhp (or less) for quite a while.

YOUNG

iTrader: (3)

My car only makes 310 RWHP and so far has smoked the stock clutch(powershifting it) so replaced it with a RAM PowerGrip HD and last Saturday broke the rear end. Probally just a output shaft, but I have not tore into it yet to verify.

vetred

Just saved yourself a loooong climb to the mountain top as this is actualy "sage" (wiseman) imformation!

Brad02Z06

Being a Auto car I would worry about the trans before the rearend. Auto's are easier on the drivetrain compared to a 6 speed car. I have 500 rwhp , 6 speed car, still on stock rearend. But I only put 6 passes on it. 1.5 - 1.6 60fts.

jdhommert

iTrader: (2)

keep it coming...

dixonk

iTrader: (8)

I have 350 rwhp and do 3500 - 4000 rpm clutch dumps weekly on it no problems yet. I will say the tranny is the weakest spot. Damn syncros and forks. But you have an auto so disregard.

GTFORMULA

iTrader: (94)

it is all in how you drive and what tires you run. Ive broke everything in a corvette. Then again I drive to win. With street tires and you probably wont break with an auto. With drag radails they like to wheel hop and break things. Slicks give a little and dont hop and break things. My problem is I always have 6 speeds and come out a 5000 rpm on slicks.

germeezy1

the stock A4's go before the rear end does. Mine went soon after the torque management was removed and some nitrous runs. Just removing the torque management is enough to grenade a stock 4L60E. You could just leave the shift torque management and cross your fingers on WOT shifts.

Red99C5

I have read lots of people saying the stock A4 wouldn't hold up very long after about 400 RWHP. As far as the differential, Drag Radials and slicks are brutal on them. The Vette rear end is not that strong. And wheel hops are defently killers. So it's more to your driving and tires that breaks the differentials, than the RWHP. If you run run-flats, then you will probably be safe. If you want to run something that bites, then I have been reading people saying don't run the drag radials, but run the ET streets. I guess they have more sidwall deflection and take some of the shock out.

germeezy1

Which is why I only like to race from a roll! The IRS in the Vette is extremely good for handling which is one thing the Vette is designed for. An F-body makes a much better strictly drag race car.

the man

iTrader: (3)

will the 4l60e from an f-body fit a vette? both 2000 models

vetred

Actually there ARE other considerations,....like, the "powdered metal" pushrods of the early model LS1s and the drive axcels have been known to twist from a good 425H.P. launch.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Left output shaft in the rear is probably the weakest link. The DTE brace and hardened rear are things to seriously consider as hp increases to prevent major damage at the track.

allngn_c5

iTrader: (3)

I have an exedy twin place clutch, Carbon Fiber drive shaft, and DTE stg III rear end with 3.42 gears and the DTE rear end brace. Will 485 rwhp and 454 rwtq be too much for the rear end or will the trans go first.

NOT INTENDING TO HIJACK sorry.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Auto prob won't last to long. I have over 200 sprayed passes, and only have broke the long output shaft on a dead hook on DRs. If ya get wheel hop stop quick this can kill the rear/trans fast. get a DTE strut brace for sure. I now run ET Streets and had 575rwhp 665rwtq going through an aussie clutch. My launches are allmost full clutch dumps at about 5500rpm. Some live, some die, but hop will be a killer for sure.
Robert