Derek 357i

iTrader: (1)

My dry sump pan just arrived from Armstrong Racing Engines (www.drysump.com) and I am in the middle of putting together the rest of the system. I talked to Gary a bit about drive pulleys and ratios. I am going to run the tank (12 QT) in the "back seat" of my car and run -16 kevlar braided lines to and from the tank. I will use -12 lines from the pan to the scavenge sections and from the pressure section to the filter and back to the engine. The fittings in the pan already have screens on them, so inline filters will not be required leading to the scavenge section. I am going to run a 3 stage Barnes pump.

Anyone have any input, thoughts, suggestions or otherwise for me? This is my first dry sump system.

Derek 357i

iTrader: (1)

d@mn, I guess not. All of you guys have these bazillion dollar motors and no one is running dry sump. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

I know for the money, it is not the way to go to add HP, but since I was going to have to run a Holden wet sump pan, I was afraid of starving the pump road racing. Either that or LS1's have an outstanding oiling system already and I am just a big <img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" /> for spending all of this money on the system.

NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

I am getting ready to purchase almost an identical set up from Gary. couple things you might want to think about would be an oil cooler of one form or another on the return side. I dont know what kind of racing you plan on doing with the car but if your going to a dry sump I am guessing you plan on spinning the motor pretty high or for an extended period of time, or even both like me <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> ! Another would be rethinking in line filters as an option. The way I look at it is there is more area in a filter for stuff to pile up and still allow oil to pass through than the couple of fittings with screens. I always look at it as "more protection the better". And if you do it put the filter in put it on the return side close to the tank. Keeps debris from possibly damaging the filter. Also think about putting one on the supply side.

Just a few side notes incase you havent thought of them or already talked to Gary about it. Use AS FEW 90 degree angles as possible. Every 90 you throw in cost's you 5psi and should be avoided like the pleague!

A check valve would be a good idea also. A good Winston Cup motor is making about 14-16 lbs of vacuum, and a street motor with less than perfect tolerances should make about 12 lbs. The check valve can be set to OPEN at 12 lbs, thus preserving the critical vacuum the oiling system needs to be efficient.

Hope some of those ideas helped you out. Get in touch with me if you have any other questions. I would love to follow your instal progress seeing as I am going to be doing one soon and also to bounce ideas off of ya!

Oh and this isnt a bad investment, I am suprised more people arent running them. Other than some of the inhearent headaches that come with them they are a great thing to have.

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

Oh forgot one thing on the check valve. Make sure it is crankcase pressure NOT manifold pressure

Louis

iTrader: (7)

Well, LG is coming out with the radiator just for you. It has an inline oilcooler, on the pressure side. Just like the Trans Am car. I suggest 2 filters, the 1st being a coarse screen, so that you can pick up the large chunks, then a larger HP-what ever.

Put a heater on it so that you can heat the oil up, and pressurize the oil tank if you are using a stock pump for feed, dont prime it with the starter.

I have quite a bit of experience with DS systems, so feel free to mail me. Boyce- I may have some good news too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

AP-Engineering

Are you guy's just running a scavenge pump from Gary, with just 2 pickups in the pan? This type system would still use the production g-rotor oil pump in the block for pressure. if this is the case, then you will not be drawing more than 5" of vac. with it. Almost no power increase will be gained. I have run this type system on my engines for a few years now and have used Gary's pan on every single one of them. His pans are very nice and seem to work good. If you want to draw more vac, you will need either more pickups in the pan or bigger bodies in the pump. Then you will be able to pull more vac. If you have any more questions, let me know.

Thanks,
Chris Gelineau
Diamond Pistons
877-552-2112 toll free

Derek 357i

iTrader: (1)

NataSS: Great to hear someone else is doing this too. I just have a couple things. My first thought on the screens was the same as yours until I saw them ( http://www.drysump.com/screenfit.htm ). I think these will accomplish what I am trying to do without doing separate inline filters. It didn't look to me like the inline filters have much more area than these, though I could be wrong. I had considered the oil cooler, but the guys at the local NASCAR used / surplus shop talked me out of it. I am building the car for One Lap Of America, so actual racing time will be small compared to road time.

I was going to put as few 90's in there as possible, but at 5 psi drop I'll try to avoid them all together, at least on the pressure side.

As for the check valve, how would you plumb that?

G2 LS1 & DIAMOND: I will be using a rebuilt NASCAR Barnes pump with at least 2 scavenge and 1 pressure section. I haven't talked to them about section size yet. I did see on the pan there is a third spot just waiting to be machined for an additional scavenge section. Is there anyway to pull oil from the top part of the engine to keep it from running down over the rotating assy? I can buy a 5 stage pump as cheaply as I can get a three stage. What is a HP filter and where would I find them?

Thanks for the help guys.

AP-Engineering

A HP filter is a Fram HP6 filter. It is a lot larger than a conventional oil filter for the car. It will flow and hold a lot more oil. The ARE oil pans do have a third spot for you to machine your self for an extra pick up. As for scavenging out of the top of an LS1, there is no good way to do that. The LS1 lifter valleys do not hold oil like on a old SBC. They are basically dry, so no need to suck out of there. Good luck with this project, keep us posted.

Thanks,
Chris Gelineau
Diamond Pistons
877-552-2112 toll free

Derek 357i

iTrader: (1)

I did see when I was out looking at my "mock up" block today that the old lifter valley appeared to be dry and each cylinder had it's own small lifter area. No way to suck the oil out of there. So if I go ahead and run a 3 stage (2 scavenge) pump, what size sections would I need to run to pull adequate vacuum in the bottom end? If I ran a 4 stage (3 scavenge) pump, what size sections would I be looking at?

I am not going with the dry sump for the HP benefits as much as for the security of not starving the engine of oil. But if where is horsepower to be had, one has to take advantage of it. This would also make me feel a bit better about my expenditure.

NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

If I was you, I would seriously consider at least 2 in line large oil filters. Those ones on the fittings I just wouldnt trust. Not only that but if you run them close to the tank the in line filters would be a heck of alot easier to change rather than fighting to get a fitting off a hose in a tight spot. Another thing is that if something goes wrong with one of those fitting filters (damage etc) while your out doing the one lap its going to be a bitch to try and get another one. Where using an inline filter, you can get at any schmucks or pep boys. In the Open Road Racing events I get to spend alot of time around dry sump systems and the guys that run them in the big dog cars. They preach the use of filters up and down in every conversation. I figure if they can build a dry sump system that effectivly feeds a stroker motor that turns 8 grand for 30 minutes straight, they know what they are doing.

NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by G2 LS1:
<strong>
I have quite a bit of experience with DS systems, so feel free to mail me. Boyce- I may have some good news too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">oh oh oh do tell!!!!! shoot me an email when you get the time.

Louis

iTrader: (7)

An HP-6 filter is very large. You may want to check out some other Fram sizes at autozone- Something that you dont have to order out of a catalog.

LSfan70s

Great input here. Sorry for bringing back such an old post.

For you experienced LS dry sumpers: is there any recipe for the gears size? (drive and pump) I'm using a 2 stages scavenging pump only, stock pump for pressure.

Please help! I've been looking for this info for a long time.