Novas Forever

Since my poor old Nova got stripped down to the bare shell and I am replacing the original antique master cylinder I wanted to check with some of you out there about my plan. I have 4 wheel discs now and want to use a dual master cylinder. I bought an adjustable proportioning valve for the back and figured that I would not use a factory style combination valve. Not too interested in the brake pressure warning light either. I figured I would run a line for the front brakes from the master cylinder and then a separate one for the rears from the master cylinder with the adjustable valve in that line. Like to hear if you have done that and the results.

Or if that is not a good idea.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

You plan sounds good if Im understanding you correctly. By dual master cylinder, are you talking about a master cylinder that has an output for front brakes and an output for rear brakes? Like most "newer" cars have?

If so... then you will be setting your brakes up just like mine are. I have single line coming out for the front brakes, that gets t'd off to each caliper with 3/16" line. For the rear brakes, I have a line going from the master, to a wilwood adjustable proportioning valve, then back to the axle with 1/4" line. At the axle, it gets split into two 3/16" lines to each caliper. My brake fluid/pressure light was in the master cylinder body...so since it was there I used it.

I will tell you that my braking is crazy now. I have 4th gen f-body front and rear discs...and after playing with the adjustable valve, it will haul down quick and steady.

Good luck! Install a line lock while you are doing the front brakes...they are fun as well

Justin

patgizz

iTrader: (6)

the advantage to plumbing a factory style combo valve into the system is when you lose front or rear brake line/caliper seal/hose and do not lose braking 100%. i learned that the hard way once now i use them in everything including scratch built custom braking systems.

sparkwirez06

iTrader: (18)

What size are the banjo fittings on the late model ls1 calipers? i'm going to order lines to replace all the steel tubes,on the rear end, with braided stainless. thanks

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Are you sure about this? I was under the impression that all the prop block did was regular rear brake bias and meter the front brakes on a disc/drum car... And the only reason why the front line goes through it is only to keep things together, to have one line going in, and two lines going out, and to meter the pressure so the drum brakes come on slightly sooner.... I mean, I could always be wrong...but thats how I always thought the regular prop. valve worked. ABS blocks may work differently, but you wouldnt install an ABS block into a custom application...usually. If any line in the system fails, or a leak happens, I thought the master would take care of making sure only one circuit will keep loosing pressure. Again...just what was in my head about it. Thought the master cylinder took care of the circuits...

sparkwirez06: No idea what size the banjo bolts are. I just used the ones off the donor car. But, you can get stainless lines from vendors that are meant to go with those calipers. bigbrakeupgrade.com has them. As well as many others. They are pricey and thats why I found stock hoses to use instead of goin with them. Im sure someone on here knows the size though. Search around a bit...and even try google.

Justin

sparkwirez06

iTrader: (18)

i checked with a freind at the dealer parts dept., it's a 10mm banjo. thanks

Novas Forever

Thanks for the input everyone. I don't think both the front and back master cylinder resevoirs are connected. If one set of brakes has a problem the others would still work to some degree. I thought the combination valve was more for distribution and housing the proportioning valve. I am always open to ideas though.