Drill Mod Review: Just Done!
05-10-2007, 11:07 PM
#1
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Drill Mod Review: Just Done! Well, I just got the drill mod done to my car today, I ended up taking it to a shop, glad I did, it was a pain in the ***....
-You need two people defiently, mostly to help get the ubolt and clutch rod back in the firewall.
Bleeding the master cylinder was interesting, here is what we did (which didn't really work)
1 - Fill res with fluid.
2 - Clutch in, open bleeder, pump clutch, close bleeder. Did this a million times, no pressure in pedal.
3 - The guy at the shop says sometime these cars bleed themselves.
4 - Pumped the clutch many times w/o opening the bleeder......clutch pedal got firm, felt back to normal..Been driving it all day, no probs.
Impressions after driving (nothing over 4000 RPM yet).
-Feels smoother, feels like it wants to go into gear more easy. I will have to see what happens after going thru the gears a few times.
Hope this info helps for somebody.
-You need two people defiently, mostly to help get the ubolt and clutch rod back in the firewall.
Bleeding the master cylinder was interesting, here is what we did (which didn't really work)
1 - Fill res with fluid.
2 - Clutch in, open bleeder, pump clutch, close bleeder. Did this a million times, no pressure in pedal.
3 - The guy at the shop says sometime these cars bleed themselves.
4 - Pumped the clutch many times w/o opening the bleeder......clutch pedal got firm, felt back to normal..Been driving it all day, no probs.
Impressions after driving (nothing over 4000 RPM yet).
-Feels smoother, feels like it wants to go into gear more easy. I will have to see what happens after going thru the gears a few times.
Hope this info helps for somebody.
05-11-2007, 12:06 AM
#2
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Hi, #3. He was running outta ideas on why it wasn't working for him. B/S, when you hear it is easy to spot. Lol. The drill mod is the way to go. You feel it engauge better. You have to wait a bit on letting the petal up, before you try to push the petal down to push the air out. To have the maters internals return to normal position. Lets the resivour refill the internal by opening up the port. My dum thoughts. Dave
05-11-2007, 08:12 AM
#3
I just did the drill mod to my new master. Doing the actual deed is easy (drilling the line). But I had my headers off and the car up on jack stands so it wasnt too bad.
When I was done, I used a motive power bleeder to bench bleed. I couldnt believe how well it worked just to bench bleed it. Im starting to sound like a commercial for them because Im always talkin about how well the things works. I cant wait to get things back together and power bleed the whole system and get all that black crud out of there.
Glad to hear the drill mod worked well for you!!
Justin
When I was done, I used a motive power bleeder to bench bleed. I couldnt believe how well it worked just to bench bleed it. Im starting to sound like a commercial for them because Im always talkin about how well the things works. I cant wait to get things back together and power bleed the whole system and get all that black crud out of there.
Glad to hear the drill mod worked well for you!!
Justin
05-11-2007, 02:02 PM
#6
Its really easy...
The abbreviated process is...
1) Remove master cylinder from car...
2) Knock out roll pin holding the hydraulic line in the MC...
3) Then get a 1/8" drill bit, hold the line with locking pliers or carefully in a vice around the metal end of the line. Dont clamp the line iteslf. Then just drill straight down through the end of the line. You will go about an inch, then feel it slip in and out really easy. Thats when you nkow you are through the restriction. As you are drilling, pull the bit out often to help get rid of the shavings.
4) Now, take some fresh brake fluid, and from the quick disconnect end, squirt fluid into there and flush out all the shavings. Do this a few times
5) Re-insert the line back into the MC, and re-install the roll pin.
6) Bench bleed the MC using your choice of processes.
7) Re-install the master into the car
8) Bleed the clutch and drive.
Atleast thats how it goes to my understanding... Its how I did it anyway. There is more work involved in removing, reinstalling, bleeding than there is in actually performing the drill part of the drill mod.
Justin
The abbreviated process is...
1) Remove master cylinder from car...
2) Knock out roll pin holding the hydraulic line in the MC...
3) Then get a 1/8" drill bit, hold the line with locking pliers or carefully in a vice around the metal end of the line. Dont clamp the line iteslf. Then just drill straight down through the end of the line. You will go about an inch, then feel it slip in and out really easy. Thats when you nkow you are through the restriction. As you are drilling, pull the bit out often to help get rid of the shavings.
4) Now, take some fresh brake fluid, and from the quick disconnect end, squirt fluid into there and flush out all the shavings. Do this a few times
5) Re-insert the line back into the MC, and re-install the roll pin.
6) Bench bleed the MC using your choice of processes.
7) Re-install the master into the car
8) Bleed the clutch and drive.
Atleast thats how it goes to my understanding... Its how I did it anyway. There is more work involved in removing, reinstalling, bleeding than there is in actually performing the drill part of the drill mod.
Justin
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05-11-2007, 02:34 PM
#8
Im no expert on it...I just did it because I already had the new master apart.
But its supposed to help solve the pedal sticking to the floor during hard driving, and its supposed to help high RPM shifting.
If you look at the end of the stock line, you'll see how bad its restricted. Its a tiny tiny hole. And that diameter of restriction goes down into the line for atleast 1" to 1.5". Open that up and now the fluid can flow much more effeciently.
J.
But its supposed to help solve the pedal sticking to the floor during hard driving, and its supposed to help high RPM shifting.
If you look at the end of the stock line, you'll see how bad its restricted. Its a tiny tiny hole. And that diameter of restriction goes down into the line for atleast 1" to 1.5". Open that up and now the fluid can flow much more effeciently.
J.
05-11-2007, 06:37 PM
#10
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I never bleed a clutch with opening the bleeder. I Vacuum bleed them.
1. modified master cap
2. hand held vacuum pump
3. pump up do not exceed 15in of vacuum you'll hear all the bubbles come right up.
4. Repeat step 3 if needed.
This is from a GM factory service bulletin. that only GM dealer ships get.
I had a friend that work for one I have a bunch of bulletins about clutches in these cars.
1. modified master cap
2. hand held vacuum pump
3. pump up do not exceed 15in of vacuum you'll hear all the bubbles come right up.
4. Repeat step 3 if needed.
This is from a GM factory service bulletin. that only GM dealer ships get.
I had a friend that work for one I have a bunch of bulletins about clutches in these cars.
05-11-2007, 10:24 PM
#11
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I was able to do the drill mod and replace the slave alone in the garage (granted I had a kwik lift and trans jack). As far as bleeding, the new master I had was "pre-bled", but I still hooked up a Motive power bleeder since my new GM slave was dry. Anyway, the combination of the Motvie power bleeder and Steve-D slave extension line allowed me to submerge the end of the line in brake fluid and bleed in minutes - once bubbles stopped, closed bleeder and all done.
01-29-2008, 12:26 PM
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you dont need to remove the transmission, go to www.installuniversity.com then click lsx vehicles, then click install documents, then scroll down a bit then click drill mod with mcloed master cylinder install, its a pretty good write up
01-29-2008, 12:34 PM
#14
you dont need to remove the transmission, go to www.installuniversity.com then click lsx vehicles, then click install documents, then scroll down a bit then click drill mod with mcloed master cylinder install, its a pretty good write up
01-29-2008, 12:39 PM
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When i was having clutch problems in my 2000 camaro I had to replace the master cylinder anyway so I did the drill mod. I hope you have little hands because that would be a huge help. It wasn't so bad coming out but it was a huge pain getting everything lined up to reinstall. Otherwise it is a very straight forward process.
02-12-2008, 04:56 AM
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Thats the way i did mine about 2 years ago with no problems and a few other cars no problems 
. I have never touched it and it shifts and goes through the grear nice and easy. All my friends that used all the other toys or tricks have had problems and had to go back and re bleed the.
. I have never touched it and it shifts and goes through the grear nice and easy. All my friends that used all the other toys or tricks have had problems and had to go back and re bleed the.
02-12-2008, 09:00 AM
#18
Drill mod should be a mandatory tranny saving mod.
As for the correct way to bleed.
Pump clutch, HOLD clutch in, crack bleeder, close bleeder.
Repeat.
Have you done brakes before? You wouldn't do a open bleeder, pump brakes then close bleeder method on them either. If you pump with the bleeder open, you create a situation where the open bleeder is an easier source for the system to replace lost fluid volume than the reservoir. The result is you will not regain pressure this way.
As for the correct way to bleed.
Pump clutch, HOLD clutch in, crack bleeder, close bleeder.
Repeat.
Have you done brakes before? You wouldn't do a open bleeder, pump brakes then close bleeder method on them either. If you pump with the bleeder open, you create a situation where the open bleeder is an easier source for the system to replace lost fluid volume than the reservoir. The result is you will not regain pressure this way.
02-12-2008, 09:12 AM
#19
You didn't bleed the clutch correctly. You should have bench bled the master while it was out of the car and it comes out PERFECT.
Basically, you fill the reservoir and then close it, have one person push the rod down all the way, then have another person use a punch (or something similar) to push the "bleeder" open on the end of the braided line, THEN RELEASE AND CLOSE THE BLEEDER BEFORE YOU RELEASE THE ROD. You repeat this a few times, then check and fill the reservoir. Keep repeating this process until you have new, clear fluid coming out and no more air coming out, then top off and cap the reservoir. THEN install the master cylinder. The whole process only takes a few minutes if the master is already out of the car, but if you put it back in, it's more trouble than it's worth to take it out again. Just bleed it using this process and the bleeder under the car.
Basically, you fill the reservoir and then close it, have one person push the rod down all the way, then have another person use a punch (or something similar) to push the "bleeder" open on the end of the braided line, THEN RELEASE AND CLOSE THE BLEEDER BEFORE YOU RELEASE THE ROD. You repeat this a few times, then check and fill the reservoir. Keep repeating this process until you have new, clear fluid coming out and no more air coming out, then top off and cap the reservoir. THEN install the master cylinder. The whole process only takes a few minutes if the master is already out of the car, but if you put it back in, it's more trouble than it's worth to take it out again. Just bleed it using this process and the bleeder under the car.