BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

We just picked up a 1967 RS Camaro and are considerring an LSX conversion. I have been reading some threads in here but need some clarification. We are sending in the subframe to get stripped and coated and before this I want to be sure no modifications are needed to the subframe for the conversion. I understand that motor mounts are needed and that is all to bolt up to the subframe and that a modified F-body oil pan is needed to clear the subframe. Anything else from just a subframe view?

Also, we are considerring the 4L60e for the trans. Will it fit in the tunnel? How about a 4L80e? My 02 is a 6 speed so an auto car would be a nice change. I do not want to hack up the floor.

TIA

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

Don't know about the automatic trans, but the tunnel in a first gen is pretty generous in size. We didn't make any modifications to the subframe at all. You may wind up drilling a few small holes for grounds and whatnot, but you can use you existing subframe, steering linkage, steering gear, upper and lower control arms (though you may want to consider changing the uppers), and you can use most of your existing exhaust if it is in good shape. The biggest modifications for us were clearancing the heater core to clear the number 8 ignition coil (also bange din the heater cover a little to make it easier to get a hose on the lower nipple), new trans crossmember, rebuild the driveshaft (get the yoke from the donor if you can), and the mods for the 02 radiator. If cash isn't an object, there are several aftermarket aluminum radiators available that will bolt right in and make the swap super easy (both in and out on pass side). The fuel tank is a biggy as well. You can either drop $1150 on a new stainless tank with in tank pump, or several people have modified stock style tanks for a whole lot less. The harness is a big job, and the plumbing for fuel, cooling, and power steering take a bit of thought. The headers you pick will make a difference on how hard it is to get them in. We used the S&P style mount plates, but look around for steel plates, it looks easier to get the steel style in. Good luck, and get some pics up soon!

kvanmaanen

I have a 4l60e in mine. I didn't have to cut the tunnel at all all you have to do mod the crossmember because the 4l60e is a little longer

jsconiers

iTrader: (2)

No modifications need to the subframe. The big thing is are you going to run stock steering, stock oil pan and A/C. Oil pan will need to be notched with stock steering. A/C may need to be relocaeted. 4L60E fits no problem. I can let you know about the 4L80e in about a week or two when I swap mine. Cross member can be replaced with BRP cross member.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

Unless you want to notch the crossmember, you will have to relocate the A/C compressor up higher. If you use the F-body accesories, the alternator is a bit tight, but does fit. Everything else fits fine. The only thing we are concerned about now is the radiator cap. We may need to clearance a brace on the hood, but won't know for sure until the sheetmetal is back on. If your RS headlights don't work, let me know, I just completely built up a whole new system, and it works great. Are you planning on changing the rear suspension at all? The mono is pretty hoppy, and you can't fit a lot of tire out back. We wanted a stock look from a distance, so that made it really easy to save the money on changing the rear suspension as we really couldn't and still get the look she wants. Are you planning on doing a disc brake swap? Keeping 14" tires? The floor shifter can be adapted to work with the 4 speed automatic, look into a company called shiftworks [http://www.shiftworks.com/camaro.htm#67camaro]. Congrats on the 67, get some pics up soon. If you need a hosting site, fquick.com has been good to us, and its free.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

By the by, since we are also working on a 67, if you have any questions specific to the year, please ask, we may have an answer/picture/idea for you. I do recomend that while you have the front end off, change your lower door hinges. THey are not expensive, and this is a great time to take care of it. Makes a big difference in using the door, and in aligning it. Subframe connectors need to be high on your list of priorities as well. You can buy bolt ins or weld ins. The weld in type are stronger, but make future changes hard as you cannot easily remove the subframe and some types make the front spring perch almost permanent as well (makes changing a leaf VERY difficult). We are using the stock 10 bolt for now, but don't have a whole lot of confidence in it. Like another guy named Shifty' told us, making braided line is "stupid easy" and that will save a few bucks making your own. You will have clearance issues with the brake booster. I would suggest going with a 9 inch booster, no booster, or the hydra-booster. Depending on which plates you use, the engine may be pretty close to the firewall, and may require a few releifs with a hammer. I believe the BRP style plates put the engine more forward than the S&P style and the Hooker plates put it waaaay back. Any plate that locates the SBC single bolt on one of the forward LSX mount holes will give you good firewall clearance. That seems to be the best fit compromise, but the stock A/C location will hit the crossmember. If you aren't running A/C, that gets real simple, the BRP and S&P and ATS style plates will work out fine for you. You will need to notch the oilpan and extend the pickup tube, not a lot you can do about that. Several companies will do it, or, if you can weld aluminum there are dimensions in one of the stickies. You won't be using the oil level sensor in the pan, but most leave it there to fill the hole. Headers are a contraversial subject, but for ease of fit the mid-length style headers are hard to beat. No ground clearance issues either. There are several threads discussing long tube fit in the first gen. If you decide to replace your steering column, Ididit has a drop in upgrade that works nice, fits well, and is very inexpensive.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

This is all great! I just took some pics last night. I have an fquick acount so I will load them up and start a new thread with plans and pics.

If anyone is interested, I have lots of original parts that I will not be using as well as other stuff like Billet Specialties wheels with brand new tires. I will also have a spare subframe for sale in a bit that was notched for some reason. I will add parts as I find them in the new thread.

Nemesis68

iTrader: (2)

Hey BadZ28, you don't need to modify the subframe if your not running stock AC. You'll probably have to add some holes to mount a transmission crossmember; there's a lot of nice bolt-on aftermarket crossmembers that improve clearance when compared to the stock crossmember.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

I will just do an aftermarket cross member for the tranny. Sounds good. I guess I can go ahead and send in the subframe for powder coat.