cam idea's for stock stall and manifolds?
#1
cam idea's for stock stall and manifolds?
hey guys i might be geting a cam put in and i might have vengence racing put it in and tune the car.
i have stock mani's and a stock stall and just a few bolt on's.
i was eather going to go with a cheater cam from thunder racing[or have vergance make some thing close] but what would be the best cam? its a dd car and i would like to keep it driveable like on a road trip and in traffic and so on. also with a good cam that would be best for my app and all tuned ready to go what should i gain??????
will it make a big diff?
i have stock mani's and a stock stall and just a few bolt on's.
i was eather going to go with a cheater cam from thunder racing[or have vergance make some thing close] but what would be the best cam? its a dd car and i would like to keep it driveable like on a road trip and in traffic and so on. also with a good cam that would be best for my app and all tuned ready to go what should i gain??????
will it make a big diff?
#3
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (16)
It seems that the popular 224 degree cams work with everything.
I'm in the same situation right now. My Firebird is a daily driver. I live in So-Cal, so I'm stuck with the stock catalysts (no, I don't intend to play any of the popular parts swapping games). I have some Edelbrock shorties for the car, because they were cheap, and an SLP y-pipe and Magnaflow cat back. I also have the stock stall, for the time being.
Since my exhaust will be far from optimized, I did the old Ford crappy exhaust band-aid trick and went with longer duration on the exhaust. I have a Comp XER273HR I will be putting in, hopefully soon. It is 224 intake, and 230 exhaust, on a 114 LSA. I hope it works well, and I expect it to pass emissions.
Regardless of what you select, the exhaust side of the cam will need some bias.
I'm in the same situation right now. My Firebird is a daily driver. I live in So-Cal, so I'm stuck with the stock catalysts (no, I don't intend to play any of the popular parts swapping games). I have some Edelbrock shorties for the car, because they were cheap, and an SLP y-pipe and Magnaflow cat back. I also have the stock stall, for the time being.
Since my exhaust will be far from optimized, I did the old Ford crappy exhaust band-aid trick and went with longer duration on the exhaust. I have a Comp XER273HR I will be putting in, hopefully soon. It is 224 intake, and 230 exhaust, on a 114 LSA. I hope it works well, and I expect it to pass emissions.
Regardless of what you select, the exhaust side of the cam will need some bias.
#4
TECH Senior Member
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You need an early IVC and a lot of extra exhaust duration for stock converter and stock manifolds. Look at the 210/222 cam in my sig. I was at 325 ft-lbs of torque before 3000 rpm on a Mustang dyno.
That cam is now for sale too.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/728330-210-222-112-high-torque-cam-sale.html
That cam is now for sale too.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/728330-210-222-112-high-torque-cam-sale.html
#6
well i want a mild lope to it but i would like it to stay reliable as its my dd when its nice
maybe like a 220/220 114lsa? some thing that will make a good amount of power but not kill the car and make it run crapy and i also use my ac so i dont want it dieing out on me lol
maybe like a 220/220 114lsa? some thing that will make a good amount of power but not kill the car and make it run crapy and i also use my ac so i dont want it dieing out on me lol
#7
TECH Senior Member
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lope is a function of idle speed and overlap. For example, your 220/220 114 cam has the same overlap as the 210/222 112 cam I had. I had it idle at 800 (stock for an M6) and it was totally stealthy. If I had dropped the idle to 700 rpm, it would lope. With an A4, you'll want your speed to be lower than 800 rpm since you have a stock converter. Almost anything you put in will lope with a 650 - 700 rpm idle.
The 220/220 114 will work but you'll still be slow off line.
The 220/220 114 will work but you'll still be slow off line.
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#9
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If I were going with a 220 / 220 cam, I would look for something with a 110 LSA. It would have the same overlap as the traditional 224 / 224 114 LSA cams. I think you would then have a fair amount of flexibility for degreeing the cam, and getting your ICL where it needs to be.
#11
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Originally Posted by Formulated
If I were going with a 220 / 220 cam, I would look for something with a 110 LSA. It would have the same overlap as the traditional 224 / 224 114 LSA cams.
Zero overlap on stock manifolds and stock converter would take a pretty decent tune to run well at a low enough idle not fight the converter at a stoplight.
#13
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Originally Posted by Ragtop 99
You need an early IVC and a lot of extra exhaust duration for stock converter and stock manifolds. Look at the 210/222 cam in my sig. I was at 325 ft-lbs of torque before 3000 rpm on a Mustang dyno.
That cam is now for sale too.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=728330
That cam is now for sale too.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=728330
#14
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Originally Posted by 66deuce
did you retain the stock manifolds for your new cam?looks a little like LPE's GT11 cam..are those LSX lobes?
The intake lobe is TR's proprietary lobe from the CheaTR. The exhaust is an Xer. The duration is pretty similar to a GT 11 (I didn't realize that LPE had such a huge lobe available at 215*), but the LSA and ICL are very different.
#15
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Originally Posted by Ragtop 99
a 220/220 110 has more overlap than a 224/224 114. A 112 LSA would be identical overlap (-4*)
Zero overlap on stock manifolds and stock converter would take a pretty decent tune to run well at a low enough idle not fight the converter at a stoplight.
Zero overlap on stock manifolds and stock converter would take a pretty decent tune to run well at a low enough idle not fight the converter at a stoplight.
#16
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Originally Posted by Ragtop 99
Still have the stock manifolds; wouldn't run a split that big otherwise.
The intake lobe is TR's proprietary lobe from the CheaTR. The exhaust is an Xer. The duration is pretty similar to a GT 11 (I didn't realize that LPE had such a huge lobe available at 215*), but the LSA and ICL are very different.
The intake lobe is TR's proprietary lobe from the CheaTR. The exhaust is an Xer. The duration is pretty similar to a GT 11 (I didn't realize that LPE had such a huge lobe available at 215*), but the LSA and ICL are very different.
#17
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I'm still messing with the street tune, but I have it idleing at 800 rpm just like stock, but I raised the A/C on idle speed to 850. It drives pretty darn well with good low end and a strong midrange. I hope to get it on a wideband for WOT tuning next month.
The extra compression of your motor would make it even nicer on the bottom end.
The extra compression of your motor would make it even nicer on the bottom end.
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Originally Posted by Ragtop 99
I'm still messing with the street tune, but I have it idleing at 800 rpm just like stock, but I raised the A/C on idle speed to 850. It drives pretty darn well with good low end and a strong midrange. I hope to get it on a wideband for WOT tuning next month.
The extra compression of your motor would make it even nicer on the bottom end.
The extra compression of your motor would make it even nicer on the bottom end.
#19
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It is a fast lobe. keeping the overlap at .006 down helps with idle quality. Yup, double springs are recommended.
To cut down the overlap, I'd leave the exhaust duration alone and go to a 112 LSA first. Installed straight up, that would rock in an LS2. High DCR for low end grunt and should carry well up top
To cut down the overlap, I'd leave the exhaust duration alone and go to a 112 LSA first. Installed straight up, that would rock in an LS2. High DCR for low end grunt and should carry well up top