shaun

hey guys i might be geting a cam put in and i might have vengence racing put it in and tune the car.
i have stock mani's and a stock stall and just a few bolt on's.
i was eather going to go with a cheater cam from thunder racing[or have vergance make some thing close] but what would be the best cam? its a dd car and i would like to keep it driveable like on a road trip and in traffic and so on. also with a good cam that would be best for my app and all tuned ready to go what should i gain??????
will it make a big diff?

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

gt2-3 www.lingenfelter.com

Formulated

iTrader: (16)

It seems that the popular 224 degree cams work with everything.

I'm in the same situation right now. My Firebird is a daily driver. I live in So-Cal, so I'm stuck with the stock catalysts (no, I don't intend to play any of the popular parts swapping games). I have some Edelbrock shorties for the car, because they were cheap, and an SLP y-pipe and Magnaflow cat back. I also have the stock stall, for the time being.

Since my exhaust will be far from optimized, I did the old Ford crappy exhaust band-aid trick and went with longer duration on the exhaust. I have a Comp XER273HR I will be putting in, hopefully soon. It is 224 intake, and 230 exhaust, on a 114 LSA. I hope it works well, and I expect it to pass emissions.

Regardless of what you select, the exhaust side of the cam will need some bias.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

You need an early IVC and a lot of extra exhaust duration for stock converter and stock manifolds. Look at the 210/222 cam in my sig. I was at 325 ft-lbs of torque before 3000 rpm on a Mustang dyno.

That cam is now for sale too.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/728330-210-222-112-high-torque-cam-sale.html

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

I think youll like a smaller cam with a notable traditional split.

shaun

well i want a mild lope to it but i would like it to stay reliable as its my dd when its nice
maybe like a 220/220 114lsa? some thing that will make a good amount of power but not kill the car and make it run crapy and i also use my ac so i dont want it dieing out on me lol

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

lope is a function of idle speed and overlap. For example, your 220/220 114 cam has the same overlap as the 210/222 112 cam I had. I had it idle at 800 (stock for an M6) and it was totally stealthy. If I had dropped the idle to 700 rpm, it would lope. With an A4, you'll want your speed to be lower than 800 rpm since you have a stock converter. Almost anything you put in will lope with a 650 - 700 rpm idle.

The 220/220 114 will work but you'll still be slow off line.

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

cheaTR!!!

Formulated

iTrader: (16)

If I were going with a 220 / 220 cam, I would look for something with a 110 LSA. It would have the same overlap as the traditional 224 / 224 114 LSA cams. I think you would then have a fair amount of flexibility for degreeing the cam, and getting your ICL where it needs to be.

tylerdj

iTrader: (31)

Like everyone else said you'll want a smaller cam for that kind of a setup. Possibly the cheaTR or 224 cam.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

a 220/220 110 has more overlap than a 224/224 114. A 112 LSA would be identical overlap (-4*)

Zero overlap on stock manifolds and stock converter would take a pretty decent tune to run well at a low enough idle not fight the converter at a stoplight.

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

personally ive seen the 224 cam with a 112 lsa work fine with alot of stock setups

66deuce

iTrader: (1)

did you retain the stock manifolds for your new cam?looks a little like LPE's GT11 cam..are those LSX lobes?

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

Still have the stock manifolds; wouldn't run a split that big otherwise.

The intake lobe is TR's proprietary lobe from the CheaTR. The exhaust is an Xer. The duration is pretty similar to a GT 11 (I didn't realize that LPE had such a huge lobe available at 215*), but the LSA and ICL are very different.

Formulated

iTrader: (16)

You are correct about the overlap. I had the 224/224 112 in mind when I wrote that. 0 overlap would be more of a challenge with a restrictive exhaust, but I think the magic would be in the calibration of the PCM. The main reason I would push the overlap on a conservative setup is to get the EVO and IVC closer together, and more similar to the OEM cam.

66deuce

iTrader: (1)

looks like your cam will have more power in the mid range and peak earlier.i'm looking at something like this for my GTO.any new numbers with this cam?and how does it idle and drive?

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

I'm still messing with the street tune, but I have it idleing at 800 rpm just like stock, but I raised the A/C on idle speed to 850. It drives pretty darn well with good low end and a strong midrange. I hope to get it on a wideband for WOT tuning next month.

The extra compression of your motor would make it even nicer on the bottom end.

66deuce

iTrader: (1)

how hard is that intake lobe on springs?are u running duals?and what would happen if u back off the exhaust lobe to around 224-226,to cut down on the overlap a bit?

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

It is a fast lobe. keeping the overlap at .006 down helps with idle quality. Yup, double springs are recommended.

To cut down the overlap, I'd leave the exhaust duration alone and go to a 112 LSA first. Installed straight up, that would rock in an LS2. High DCR for low end grunt and should carry well up top