Stripped stud, wheel now stuck on car, need ideas!
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Stripped stud, wheel now stuck on car, need ideas!
Hey guys, I was test fitting some 15x10 Prostars after grinding on the calipers. The fit was pretty close, so I torqued them down to check the progress. After seeing where they were still rubbing, I started backing out the lug nuts until one of the studs started spinning freely. The big problem is that the wheel is still on the car, the lug nut is galled onto the stud, and the calipers aren't ground far enough for me to drive it on the remaining four!
Any ideas for how to fix it? I don't think I can pull the axle because the wheel is stuck on the car and I can't get to the brake bolts. Can I remove the ABS sensor and get to the back of the stud? If so, I might be able to grind the head on the back to the point where I can break it free and pull it out from the front? I'm working in the driveway without air tools, but I have a Dremel, grinder, drill, etc.
Any ideas for how to fix it? I don't think I can pull the axle because the wheel is stuck on the car and I can't get to the brake bolts. Can I remove the ABS sensor and get to the back of the stud? If so, I might be able to grind the head on the back to the point where I can break it free and pull it out from the front? I'm working in the driveway without air tools, but I have a Dremel, grinder, drill, etc.
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I think you only option at this point is to cut the lugnut and stud off and install a new wheel stud. If you have enough room I would try and use a cutoff wheel but if not then you may have to torch it off.
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I had this happen on an old Ranger once. It was a style of wheel that the lug nut was count sunk inside the wheel. I was able to get to the back side of the rotor(where the studs are pressed in) and put a small weld on it to hold it in place.
Mine was due to the infinate wisdom of tire shops puttting the lug nut in the impact wrench and just running them down on the studs and cross threading them.
Mine was due to the infinate wisdom of tire shops puttting the lug nut in the impact wrench and just running them down on the studs and cross threading them.
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Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm trying not to marr the face of the wheel, so torching or cutting the lugnut will only be a last resort.
It is a definite that the stud will need to be replaced. I did consider tack welding the stud on the back and then removing the lug nut. But if I can get to the back of the stud, I would rather just grind the head off with a Dremel and pull it out through the front. Sound feasible?
Any reason why I wouldn't be able to access the back of the stud after removing the ABS sensor?
It is a definite that the stud will need to be replaced. I did consider tack welding the stud on the back and then removing the lug nut. But if I can get to the back of the stud, I would rather just grind the head off with a Dremel and pull it out through the front. Sound feasible?
Any reason why I wouldn't be able to access the back of the stud after removing the ABS sensor?
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Maybe you could drill out the middle of it with a smaller bit, then using that hole as a guide, drill out the whole thing with a larger bit. If you do this, make sure you stop before you hit the base, don't want to drill out the hole where the stud presses in or you might as well throw the thing away.
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Afraid not, I am still running the stock studs which do not extend past the end of the lug nut. They are the open end, shank style lug nuts, which also means that they grip the stud way down inside of the wheels. They look like this:
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Originally Posted by taintedmeat
Maybe you could drill out the middle of it with a smaller bit, then using that hole as a guide, drill out the whole thing with a larger bit. If you do this, make sure you stop before you hit the base, don't want to drill out the hole where the stud presses in or you might as well throw the thing away.
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Originally Posted by LS1 Sounds
Are you talking about drilling from the front? or from behind the axle? I'm not sure if i can fit a drill back there, but I should be able to get to it with a Dremel.
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Good news guys, I ran into a bit of good luck today. I had enough room to unbolt the caliper, compress the pistons, and wiggle it out from behind the wheel. After that it was just a matter of sliding out the axle with the wheel attached. I started drilling it from behind (get your minds out of the gutter), but didn't finish because it got dark outside. I'll bust that head off of there, press in a new stud, and I should be back in business. Well, at least back to grinding for the Prostars.
Thank you all for the suggestions!
Thank you all for the suggestions!