LS1 manual alum driveshaft fit in an LT1 auto Z28
08-12-2007, 09:16 PM
#4
Originally Posted by camar0corey
82-02 all the same size, they all work.
08-12-2007, 09:27 PM
#5
Originally Posted by camar0corey
82-02 all the same size, they all work.
Some V6s had 2-peice steel shafts with a center bracket that connected
to the torque arm. That is removable and can be replaced with a 1-peice shaft.
I've installed dozens of these over the last 7 years.
Originally Posted by Mojave
I don't think that is entirely accurate. The 3 speed autos and 4 speed manuals in the early 80's got different driveshafts.
08-12-2007, 09:46 PM
#6
Originally Posted by James Montigny
Which production cars got 3 speed automatics?
Apparently just the 82's.
08-12-2007, 09:59 PM
#7
Originally Posted by Mojave
Trending Topics
08-12-2007, 10:01 PM
#8
08-12-2007, 11:07 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Black94Z28
Anyone actually notice any peformance gains doing from the steel one to the aluminum driveshaft?
Also what should i expect to pay for a used one?
Also what should i expect to pay for a used one?
http://www.ws6.com/mod-1.htm
I see aluminum shafts for sale between $75 and $125 on a regular basis.
Board classifieds and Ebay are good places to look.
08-13-2007, 07:25 AM
#14
Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
Thought i seen the stock LS1 shafts break when you pushing 500+RWTQ, not that i am on my 95 by any means, but when is it time to buy a bad ****?
something beefier than a stock driveshaft. They'll handle the abuse for a while
but they will twist in two at the worst possible time. There are many threads
with pics of broken shafts.
08-13-2007, 08:14 PM
#17
10 Second Club
iTrader: (66)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I loved the aluminum driveshaft in my car.... But on the interstate I mashed down on the throttle and damn my Uv Joint broke in the rear.... oops 
So never the less I pulled over and yanked it out and put the one from my 86 Iroc in my formula and I could tell a loss of power with the steel ds. But anyways I put the new UV Joints back in and It's ready to roll now. But if anyone is interested in an Aluminum Ls1 driveshaft with new UV Joints I'd sell it for $100 the only damage to it is the rear yoke has a few scratches on it but it's not dented anywhere. The ds doesn't make any vibrations at speed so i assume it's ok. Just wanted to add that I've had it at the track a few times and I never had a problem with it launching....just allows me to spin easier which sucks.But anyways I'm gonna get a 3.5" Aluminum driveshaft this winter to put in it so I'm gonna part with the stock LS1 DS. Not trying to talk anyone into buying this from me but I'd recomend putting one in; they do help out in my honest oppinion.
So never the less I pulled over and yanked it out and put the one from my 86 Iroc in my formula and I could tell a loss of power with the steel ds. But anyways I put the new UV Joints back in and It's ready to roll now. But if anyone is interested in an Aluminum Ls1 driveshaft with new UV Joints I'd sell it for $100 the only damage to it is the rear yoke has a few scratches on it but it's not dented anywhere. The ds doesn't make any vibrations at speed so i assume it's ok. Just wanted to add that I've had it at the track a few times and I never had a problem with it launching....just allows me to spin easier which sucks.But anyways I'm gonna get a 3.5" Aluminum driveshaft this winter to put in it so I'm gonna part with the stock LS1 DS. Not trying to talk anyone into buying this from me but I'd recomend putting one in; they do help out in my honest oppinion. 