low oil pressure, is my ls1 on the way out
08-14-2007, 04:40 PM
#1
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low oil pressure, is my ls1 on the way out i just finished putting a d1sc on my ls1 last night and drove it back from the shop that night. today i drive to the shop to clean up and back to the house, i noticed the oil pressure was low at idle, it was below the half way mark (40 psi) and jumping around in about a 10 psi range (best guess is it was moving from about 30-40 psi very quickly). so i checked the oil and it was a little low (about 1/4 on the hash marks).
my question is this, did i mess up my motor??
my question is this, did i mess up my motor??
08-14-2007, 09:33 PM
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it has a tune from epp that i got with there blower kit, its supposed to be rich to safen things up. im taking it on friday to get tuned with the air/fuel checked out and corrected.
car has around 50-60k miles (off the top of my head)
im currently running that german castrol stuff and i plan on changing the oil soon
car has around 50-60k miles (off the top of my head)
im currently running that german castrol stuff and i plan on changing the oil soon
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08-14-2007, 11:05 PM
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Running heavier oil is more of a band-aid fix isn't it? If you've got low oil pressure, throwing heavier oil in your motor isn't going fix whatever is causing the oil pressure to be low.
Maybe your oil filter is just dirty. When my filter gets dirty close to oil change time my oil pressure drops a little bit. However, it could be caused by anything really. Maybe try hooking up a mechanical oil pressure gauge to see if the stock gauge is accurate.
Maybe your oil filter is just dirty. When my filter gets dirty close to oil change time my oil pressure drops a little bit. However, it could be caused by anything really. Maybe try hooking up a mechanical oil pressure gauge to see if the stock gauge is accurate.
08-15-2007, 12:14 AM
#10
well with as many miles as his car has and now with FI, his rings may have a little space in them, and with heavier oil, it will close that space up and reduce blow-by...
This is just what I was told on this board..... Im no expert by ANYMEANS!
This is just what I was told on this board..... Im no expert by ANYMEANS!
08-15-2007, 01:30 AM
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I had a problem with my oil pressure just crapping out on me. I replaced the sender to start of with and it fixed all my problems. I am running a D1SC with 109k on the clock so I guess it was just its time to go out. Start there.
08-15-2007, 08:55 AM
#12
Originally Posted by Spade
I had a problem with my oil pressure just crapping out on me. I replaced the sender to start of with and it fixed all my problems. I am running a D1SC with 109k on the clock so I guess it was just its time to go out. Start there.
BTW, do not use FRAM filters. Use K&N, Mobil 1, Wicks or NAPA gold, which is Wicks.
08-15-2007, 10:53 AM
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Mine started doing it ever so slightly a couple months ago. New ported LS6 pump in there now and it still does it a little bit but its in need of an oil change. Ive got 5w40 im gonna try next, which supposed to be "good for turbos" as amsoil says. We'll see if that helps any. I'd like to watch it through my OBD scanner and see if its giving similar results.
Wheres the sender located?
Wheres the sender located?
08-15-2007, 10:56 AM
#15
Originally Posted by 2000TurboVert
well with as many miles as his car has and now with FI, his rings may have a little space in them, and with heavier oil, it will close that space up and reduce blow-by...
This is just what I was told on this board..... Im no expert by ANYMEANS!
This is just what I was told on this board..... Im no expert by ANYMEANS!
Do yourself a favor and never take advice from the idiot that told you that. For one, ring gap has nothing to do with oil pressure. Oil pressure is largely dictated by bearing clearance (and of course the oil pump). Secondly, unless your engine was built "loose", if you need higher viscosity oil to maintain good oil pressure, it is a band aid and will not fix the real issue. Thirdly (is that a word?), oil viscosity will not effect ring gap at all. If your burning oil because of bad rings, you need a rebuild (or a 200 shot, j/k). Also, 50K on an LS1 is nothing. They are designed to go 200K and usually the cylinders look great on tear downs, unless the engine was damaged.
Lastly, I don't know the temperature ranges you drive your car in, but if it gets cold I would stop using the 20W50. Next time its 30 degrees leave some 20W50 in the bottle outside overnight. Then go out and try to pour the stuff. Can you say "molasses"? Do you really want your engine relying on that **** to flow to every nook and cranny for lubrication? I don't.
08-15-2007, 12:19 PM
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changing the oil right now, mobil 10w30
checked the dip stick, not puffing oil
will be checking the number 7 spark plug (after putting the procharger on, plugs are like changing an air filter!)
when i was driving it on the ramps, the pressure was over 40 psi so idk wtf is going on, **** maybe its that time of the month for the bird
checked the dip stick, not puffing oil
will be checking the number 7 spark plug (after putting the procharger on, plugs are like changing an air filter!)
when i was driving it on the ramps, the pressure was over 40 psi so idk wtf is going on, **** maybe its that time of the month for the bird
08-15-2007, 01:43 PM
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i don't know about the bobbing of the guage... you have me worried now... my motor was just built... probably 50 miles on it at the most - don't even have the final tune on it til i get acouple hundred on it, but at idle it is a tick below 40psi... somiething like 38 probably cuz its just off 40... and just driving down teh road its like 50, and havnet noticed what its like when giving good gas, but i just hope its ok.... hopefully its not too low at idle
08-15-2007, 02:29 PM
#18
Originally Posted by TS6
Do yourself a favor and never take advice from the idiot that told you that. For one, ring gap has nothing to do with oil pressure. Oil pressure is largely dictated by bearing clearance (and of course the oil pump). Secondly, unless your engine was built "loose", if you need higher viscosity oil to maintain good oil pressure, it is a band aid and will not fix the real issue. Thirdly (is that a word?), oil viscosity will not effect ring gap at all. If your burning oil because of bad rings, you need a rebuild (or a 200 shot, j/k). Also, 50K on an LS1 is nothing. They are designed to go 200K and usually the cylinders look great on tear downs, unless the engine was damaged.
Lastly, I don't know the temperature ranges you drive your car in, but if it gets cold I would stop using the 20W50. Next time its 30 degrees leave some 20W50 in the bottle outside overnight. Then go out and try to pour the stuff. Can you say "molasses"? Do you really want your engine relying on that **** to flow to every nook and cranny for lubrication? I don't.
Lastly, I don't know the temperature ranges you drive your car in, but if it gets cold I would stop using the 20W50. Next time its 30 degrees leave some 20W50 in the bottle outside overnight. Then go out and try to pour the stuff. Can you say "molasses"? Do you really want your engine relying on that **** to flow to every nook and cranny for lubrication? I don't.
Thanks for the honesty! Like I said, I just did what I was told to do by a good source.. But the 20w50 should get me around til it gets cold down here, which will be november!
Thanks though serisouly for the advice!
08-15-2007, 04:32 PM
#19
Originally Posted by SonofaBish
i don't know about the bobbing of the guage... you have me worried now... my motor was just built... probably 50 miles on it at the most - don't even have the final tune on it til i get acouple hundred on it, but at idle it is a tick below 40psi... somiething like 38 probably cuz its just off 40... and just driving down teh road its like 50, and havnet noticed what its like when giving good gas, but i just hope its ok.... hopefully its not too low at idle
08-15-2007, 04:43 PM
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SStolen how often did yours bobble and how much (as in 10+ psi range or very little). Mine looks like its ever so slightly vibrating with the cam idle, which I know its not actually jiggling due to the cam but if I were to describe it thats what it looks like. Only occurs every so often (cold starts mainly), then it goes back to "normal". Not sure if thats similar to yours (thread starter) or not.
also, where is the sender?
also, where is the sender?