Stall converter suggestions?
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Stall converter suggestions?
I have a 95 Z28 with pacesetter lt's/ory, slp loudmouth, moroso cai, 3.42 rear, and a pcm for less tune. I'm planning on a 306 cam over winter and I'd like to get the converter first to see what I can get out of it until then. I drive the car daily so I'm not looking for overkill, just what will work well. No offense but unless you have experience with a similar setup please don't answer. I'm looking more for fact and less for opinion. Thanks for all help.
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
I have a 3400 Edge and it drives just fine, wife even likes it, a bit much if you have to drive in the snow but fine in rain and good weather.
I would recommend Edge, Yank or Vigilante, and that you rethink the cam selection.
I would recommend Edge, Yank or Vigilante, and that you rethink the cam selection.
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Originally Posted by Ls1Bait
Yank SS3600
I would never think about going with a diffrent company!!
I would never think about going with a diffrent company!!
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Originally Posted by Ls1Bait
Also cut 1.7x 60' on a nitto with 4:10s and headers and a sphon touqe adjustable touqe arm.
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Originally Posted by Slowmaro95Z28
I hear that a lot. Around how much would I be looking at spending?
#10
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I have done 1.614 with 3.73s and a 27" tire.
Far as the 306 it is the same price as any other comp cam and many Comp vendors will sell custom grinds at off the shelf prices without the "off the shelf" compromises meant to keep the stupid happy.
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb90252.htm
But hey you want a cam that is too big and known to have lots of surge and mediocre performance(despite it's reputation) you have at it. Just be sure you tell everyone your mistake was the best way to go and the circle of ignorance can continue. That is what lead you too that cam in the first place.
Far as the 306 it is the same price as any other comp cam and many Comp vendors will sell custom grinds at off the shelf prices without the "off the shelf" compromises meant to keep the stupid happy.
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb90252.htm
But hey you want a cam that is too big and known to have lots of surge and mediocre performance(despite it's reputation) you have at it. Just be sure you tell everyone your mistake was the best way to go and the circle of ignorance can continue. That is what lead you too that cam in the first place.
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an auto trans takes away alot of the "cam surge". the bigger cams make good power and now he will have a bigger cam to have alittle more potential with if he decides to do heads. id say stick with the plan
btw i make great power with my shitty off the shelf cam
btw i make great power with my shitty off the shelf cam
#12
To be frank, the 306 is garbage for stock cubes. Too big and lazy. You may get it to dyno like 380 to the wheels on a 6sp, but it will look like a turbo ricer dyno with nothing impressive under the curve until like 6k. The times will show - I see a ton of mid and high 12 sec 306 cars with ported heads, which is crap. It sacrifices driveability and E/T for RWHP - which may be fine for web-racers, but sucks for people who DD and drag their rides.
A smaller custom cam will dyno less, but will have more power where it is used which maks it a lot more fun to drive on the street, and still run quicker at the track.
The stall eats the surge up. An auto is more sensitive to big cams then a manual is. Bigger cams in a stock cube engine rarely make much more power, and often run slower times. For an off the shelf grind for a stock cube engine I would first suggest the Lingenfelter 219, and then the crane 227 if they want on the bigger side. The crane 227 with 1.6rrs makes a beast of a daily driver/weekend warrior LT1.
A smaller custom cam will dyno less, but will have more power where it is used which maks it a lot more fun to drive on the street, and still run quicker at the track.
Originally Posted by Schweet97Z
an auto trans takes away alot of the "cam surge". the bigger cams make good power and now he will have a bigger cam to have alittle more potential with if he decides to do heads. id say stick with the plan
btw i make great power with my shitty off the shelf cam
btw i make great power with my shitty off the shelf cam
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To put all this to rest the reason I'm going with the 306 cam is because a buddy of mine that runs a local performance shop ran 11.8 with this cam and stock heads on an auto car. It already was proven enough for me and I'm sorry to hear others have problems with it. Trust me, I'll be back here with results next year so if it doesn't work out I'll eat my words. Until then I'm sticking to my plan. Thanks for all the info and suggestions.
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People have ran 11s with the stock heads with a lot smaller cams, on the stock heads, you don't need a CC306 to get 11s. Far as the the converter, I have a Vigi 3200, daily drove it, drives great, have cut 1.72 60fts with the stock gears and worn out Nittos. CC306 is a good cam for what it is, with heads it makes good power for its time, first cam people were using to 400rwhp with heads. Far as people running 12s with h/c, I have seen that so many different cams, heads and cam and many other set ups. More to it than just throwing parts at it and hoping it hits a number. But if any of y'all remember Chris B's old 96 Z28, he ran 11.20s with a CC306 and GTP ported LT4s. There was a bunch of cars years ago running 11s with that cam and heads. It may not make as much power as some of these custom grinds some people run, but set up right with heads people have ran good with it. Gotta remember that cam came out in the mid 90s and for its time it made great power.
Last edited by BizZzatch350; 09-17-2007 at 02:12 AM.
#16
It is still a decent cam for the track, but for LT1s that see a lot of street duty their are much better choices.
As long as you are willing to spin it where it wants to be, and have the supporting mods, it will make decent times. I just dont think most of our tired old high mileage LT1s should be spinning that high when they can run the same times with cams that peak earlier .
As long as you are willing to spin it where it wants to be, and have the supporting mods, it will make decent times. I just dont think most of our tired old high mileage LT1s should be spinning that high when they can run the same times with cams that peak earlier .
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Originally Posted by BizZzatch350
I have a Vigi 3200, daily drove it, drives great, .
Ive talked with a couple guys about this and I have rode in a stalled LS1, so I know what a verter does, and how it feels.
My question with you is what your opinion is on a highway race.
Does your stall diminish your top end much, or make it better?
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I have a Vigilante 0 (2800-3000 behind a stock LT1) in my CC306 equipped car, it stalls higher due to the power gain
the car launches very hard and is never a prob in traffic
just wanted to remind you to let the manufacturer know every detail you can about your car when choosing (a good company will want to know it all)
the companies listed all have great reputations so I'd advise contacting them all to get recommendations and go from there
the car launches very hard and is never a prob in traffic
just wanted to remind you to let the manufacturer know every detail you can about your car when choosing (a good company will want to know it all)
the companies listed all have great reputations so I'd advise contacting them all to get recommendations and go from there
#20
Originally Posted by burnzilla
Hey,
Ive talked with a couple guys about this and I have rode in a stalled LS1, so I know what a verter does, and how it feels.
My question with you is what your opinion is on a highway race.
Does your stall diminish your top end much, or make it better?
Ive talked with a couple guys about this and I have rode in a stalled LS1, so I know what a verter does, and how it feels.
My question with you is what your opinion is on a highway race.
Does your stall diminish your top end much, or make it better?