97badass

iTrader: (8)

Ok ive got 130,000 mile 95 t/a m6 im doing the transmission right now and this winter i want to do some motor work to it. I want to do a 383 over the winter. time for the ??'s is the lt1 block different from a regular 350 block? and does it need a special crank for the lt1 or can i use a basic 400 sb crank and what pistons and rods i was thinking venolia pistons with eagle h beams, and the heads are getting shaved and bigger valves. then i need to know what size/brand of cam you guys prefer i want to stick with the FI because i got to drive my car 40 miles to work. and then the last questions are whats the estimated hp rating on a lt1 383 and are there any places to get a tune for this? and the last question...will i have to upgrade my electronics and whats the best opti? ive heard stock was the best. but i havent had a single problem with mine thats from the factory in 95.

Bad_tx_Z28

iTrader: (3)

ok heres the deal...the diff from the early small blocks and the LT1s is that ours are a 1 piece rear main seal...so you can use a smallblock 400 but it has to be out of the 90s SS trucks.

97badass

iTrader: (8)

ok so i can use an older 350 block and use my lt1 heads and intake? and will my t56 bolt up to the older 350?

tonskiguy

iTrader: (3)

You can't use a SBC block with LT1 heads. The water pump mount, reverse cooling passages, timing chain cover, ignition are all different.

97badass

iTrader: (8)

well **** ive got access to regular sbc's for a dime a dozen but does anyone know the aproximate hp i will get from doing a 383 in my lt1?

Superbeasst

iTrader: (2)

THAT all depends on your heads, cam, valvetrain combo. Along with which headers, exhaust system, tune, fuel injectors, ignition setup etc. etc.

With a good set of ported stockers/ some AFRs or TFS heads and a decent cam (23X/23X) Along with a good tune, and opened exhaust. Expect anywhere from 380hp-450hp. And 390tq-450tq.

Take mine for a poor example, my tranny slipping, stock TB, exhaust and intake and I put down 340 hp/395TQ. I have a LOT left to get out of this motor with the TB, exhaust, headers etc.

Power is all in the valve train, not the bottom end.

97badass

iTrader: (8)

Power is all in the valve train, not the bottom end. true true im just wanting to get in the 400 hp range but 450-500 sounds the best i was even thinking of a 396 its all about the power for me, i havent lost a race yet but those 4.6 mustangs are easy targets and fun practice. i just want something that sounds mean and runs like a raped ape!

Superbeasst

iTrader: (2)

If you want to see some good results for the power check out these

http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiPerfLT1.html

http://www.eportworks.com/lt1.html

http://www.portpros.com/GM_LT1-4.html

What I learned when doing my current motor is that it cost ALOT more than I was planning for...But if you put your money up for Quality products the first time around then you won't have to redo it later. Also check out for the bottom end

http://www.ellweinengines.com/

Karl's a great guy, willing to give you advice and has built some really good engines to date.

qwk93ta

iTrader: (13)

97badass

I am selling my LT1 383 short block....it has a 4130 Eagle forged rotating assembly with JE pistons. I bought the SB from a local speed shop and they would be glad to give you more details. I'm not a mechanic, so I don't know all of the details. I saw the car that this motor came out of run the 1/4 in the high 10s and dynoed something like 440 RWHP. If you are interested let me know......

Mark

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

If you want to make mid 400's na you will have to convert to a solid roller. That is the secret to making sick power. The downfall is having more valvetrain maintnence! This is why hydrolic roller is standard these days.