not your average clutch sticking question
#1
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not your average clutch sticking question
alright so to start off with i have an 02 near stock z28.
i've bled my clutch fluid so that everything is clear i used prestone dot 4 then entire way.
went for a drive on the 1st high rpm from 2-3 shift it wouldn't go in so i figured i'd have to do the drill mod
drill mod completed used prestone dot 4 agian bled everything out clutch felt really good.
went for a drive on the 1st high rpm shift from 2-3 it wouldn't go in the same problem as before didn't help one bit.
my question is. is the 01 master better than the 02 or is it the 01-02 master and slave.
next question has anyone ever tryed just putting in different brake fluid in it? i've been doing some research off the board and the top of the line (DOT 3,4 approved) has a insanly high boiling point compared to the presone stuff that i have do you think its worth a shot? or should i just go ahead and do the stock adjustable master?
http://www.quadrigamotorsports.com/DOT_Chart.html
is what i was lookign at.
i've bled my clutch fluid so that everything is clear i used prestone dot 4 then entire way.
went for a drive on the 1st high rpm from 2-3 shift it wouldn't go in so i figured i'd have to do the drill mod
drill mod completed used prestone dot 4 agian bled everything out clutch felt really good.
went for a drive on the 1st high rpm shift from 2-3 it wouldn't go in the same problem as before didn't help one bit.
my question is. is the 01 master better than the 02 or is it the 01-02 master and slave.
next question has anyone ever tryed just putting in different brake fluid in it? i've been doing some research off the board and the top of the line (DOT 3,4 approved) has a insanly high boiling point compared to the presone stuff that i have do you think its worth a shot? or should i just go ahead and do the stock adjustable master?
http://www.quadrigamotorsports.com/DOT_Chart.html
is what i was lookign at.
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yeah but i'm suposed to have the better slave and master also you should be making a ton more power than i am i just don't get it i guess. if that will fix it thought that is what i'll prolly end up doing in the winter.
and i agree with tired of ******* with it.
and i agree with tired of ******* with it.
#5
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So is the pedal sticking when it won't go in gear? Or does the pedal feel normal it just won't go to the next gear? Just want to know what's going on before I give advice.
As for as those high temp brake fluid's you may want to check the price on those, some of those super high temp fluids can run $25+ a quart. Also be sure any fluid you use is dot 3 compatable, most are but some dot5 and 5.1 are not but just be check the bottle first. A decent dot3 or 4 will be fine as long as you keep the fluid fresh and clean.
As for as those high temp brake fluid's you may want to check the price on those, some of those super high temp fluids can run $25+ a quart. Also be sure any fluid you use is dot 3 compatable, most are but some dot5 and 5.1 are not but just be check the bottle first. A decent dot3 or 4 will be fine as long as you keep the fluid fresh and clean.
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Originally Posted by JonB
So is the pedal sticking when it won't go in gear? Or does the pedal feel normal it just won't go to the next gear? Just want to know what's going on before I give advice.
As for as those high temp brake fluid's you may want to check the price on those, some of those super high temp fluids can run $25+ a quart. Also be sure any fluid you use is dot 3 compatable, most are but some dot5 and 5.1 are not but just be check the bottle first. A decent dot3 or 4 will be fine as long as you keep the fluid fresh and clean.
As for as those high temp brake fluid's you may want to check the price on those, some of those super high temp fluids can run $25+ a quart. Also be sure any fluid you use is dot 3 compatable, most are but some dot5 and 5.1 are not but just be check the bottle first. A decent dot3 or 4 will be fine as long as you keep the fluid fresh and clean.
the peadal sticks down to the floor and act likes it locking out the next gear. i'm almost 100% that it is not a internal trans problem as if i start in 2nd i can go into 3rd no problem but then when 4th comes around it will do the same thing
i have to lift the peadal up off the floor with my toe and then pump once and it will go in no problem. car will go into gear just fine as long as its not floor'd and going through multiple gears if that makes since
example. if i'm in 2nd i can bring the car to redline flooring it and then let off and it will go into the next gear no problem but if i start in 1st go through 2nd (which feels fine pedal starts to get lighter) then from 2nd to 3rd it will stick to the floor on my "downstroke" and will keep it from going into 3rd.
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Sounds to me like your's is doing the same thing mine is. I have a different clutch master cylinder, so I don't have the problem with having to drill it out, but my problem is the brake fluid getting so hot it boils and I lose pressure only when I am in gear pushing it. The only thing I could do was buy the better brake fluid, but it wasn't expensive. Only about $3 a pint. I can't remember which brand it was, but it was synthetic made for dot 3 or dot 4 but a higher boiling temp than both. Got it through Checker Auto Parts.
I would try that first and then if it don't work, look somewhere else.
Good Luck
I would try that first and then if it don't work, look somewhere else.
Good Luck
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#8
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You are having your average sticking clutch pedal problem then. When the pedal sticks it will either A. lock you in gear untill you pull the pedal back up or B. lock you out of gear untill you pull the pedal back up. All I can tell you is to take a look at the sticky at the top of this section and start replacing parts. You've already done the first step bleeding, next is a new master.
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I went throgh the same issues, I broke down and put in a ls7 clutch, new master and slave and and had the trans upgraded by sixspeedsinc. It was the best money I have spent on the car yet
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You are having your average sticking clutch pedal problem then. When the pedal sticks it will either A. lock you in gear untill you pull the pedal back up or B. lock you out of gear untill you pull the pedal back up. All I can tell you is to take a look at the sticky at the top of this section and start replacing parts. You've already done the first step bleeding, next is a new master.
the car has the prestone dot 4 (like ranger recommends).
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alright so an update. i bled the clutch agian got all of the prestone dot 4 out of the line. and got a decent deal on the GS610 i bought 3 12 oz bottles. i gravity bled the clutch like normal. then pumped the clutch a few times and finished the bleeding process. i then took wrapped the master to slave line in header wrap that i had lying around. then i put this "reflective metal tape" that i got at the AZ drove around easy for a few mins and it felt great so i figured i'd see if any of this helped or if i was just SOL. so i did 6 1st - 4th pulls. no problems at all. i then we and launched the car got all the way to 4th before the peadal felt even the slighest bit softer. i'm not sure if the brake fluid helped this or if the wraping of the line is what did it but i'm back to shifting hard and fast