robertbartsch

I finished my H/C install recently. While under the car I noticed that the y-pipe is less than 1/2 inch from the floor boards in some spots. In other locations, it touches the heat sheilds causing a sound that shakes my fillings...

Since these headers have never fit since I installed them in December, I suppose I should return them to FLP and demand a full refund. (They told me to take off the CATs, use a crow bar when changing oil, reposition the steering linkage, and to run without cats if they bang) All this is unacceptiable to me - I bought an expensive pair of headers, Y-pipe and cats that do not fit my car.

Ok - Enough of that. What are my other alternatives?

Thanks...

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

One thing that you might consider is installing the Prothane poly motor mounts. They've significantly reduced the amount of engine rotation/Y-pipe banging in my case. While there is a bit of additional vibration passed through the chassis now, it is minimal IMO.

robertbartsch

Motor and tranny mounts? Where do you buy them?

Thanks,,

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Summit Racing, Thunder Racing, JEGS and even Autozone now carries the ES line.

TaTommyWS6

Get out the ol' sledge hammer and fix those annoying floor boards! I bet they never bang again after a little massaging with the ol' hammer!

Tommy

robertbartsch

Oh thanks! Tom: lets sledge hammer your rig first! ...if it work I'll do mine...

Seriously, you drove this car; these pipes are a terrible fit...

...i think it is getting worse too; the banging is now in at least three places; I think the tranny tail housing is hitting the floor board but the last time i checked the tranny mount was OK...

2002blackZ

iTrader: (4)

I agree with what everyone said above. I had similar problems with my Hooker LT's and Y pipe. I put in a poly motor mount on the drivers side and a poly trans mount. The banging is gone. Now I have some rattles from them. I am told this will go away after a while. Good luck!

robertbartsch

BlackZ:
why not a poly mounts on both sides of the engine?

are the rattles from heat shields; if yes, just take them off....?

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

robert,
you can pick up the Prothane mounts at Thunder Racing. These are a direct replacement, the ES version requires some shimming. I saw no appreciable change between driver's side mount only vs. both poly mounts, so either will help. One thing I did notice is how smooth the engine idles now with the hotcam. hardly any shaking at idle at all. i highly recommend these motor mounts.

Roadrunner 45

iTrader: (1)

Engine tie down strap to limit engine rotation- easier to do than motor mounts.
also- massage the floor boards. It is bull that for $1000 you get ill- fitting headers.

Dean-o

Join the club. I have the SLPs and the y-pipe banged on the drivers side under hard acceleration due to the motor torque. I hammered a wedge shaped piece of wood between the pipe and floorboard in front of the smallest gap (source of banging) to move the pipe away from the floorboard and then epoxied a piece of rubber hose to the bottom of the floor board. I then removed the wooden wedge and I have never heard a bang since. This was 10 months ago.
Also sub frame connectors will eliminate a lot of rattles and squeaks from the rough idle of a cam. Harder bushing will only increase this. My entire exhaust shakes up and down when looking at the car from behind. My passenger seat even bounces around when I'm sitting at a light.
I found sub frame connectors to be the answer, and they are great for cornering and launching. Just my 2 cents.

Dean

Roadrunner 45

iTrader: (1)

but shaking is coool. That's 1/2 the reason I put in a cam!

robertbartsch

DB99:
Can you further clarify your mod?

What kind of rubber hose did you use; was it a raditor hose? Did you cut it in half lenght wise

What kind of glue will work between rubber and sheet metal? Was the hose corrigated?

I don't suppose you have a picture?

Thanks...

sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

You buy their expensive products, and then they tell you to remove and dismantle your car, just to get them to fit. That is totally unacceptable. They should have had better quality control. You should not have to remove standard equipment, that's on just about every F-body, to use those. You shouldn't have to redesign your entire car, that's pathetic of them to even insult your intelligence, by telling you that crap. I'd return em'. A f*cking crowbar, or a sledge hammer, please, maybe to their head.

Roadrunner 45

iTrader: (1)

I agree that its bull to have to modify. Especially for those VERY EXPENSIVE headers. I could see it if they were bargain basement cheapies. But, the automotive aftermarket is known as the 50% industry because half the **** you buy that is a "bolt on" is not- it usually requires some cutting, bending, fussing etc. And universal parts universally don't fit anything. I think if there was a co. that made products that ALWAYS worked & fit as advertised, they'd make a killing.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Maybe we should go after GM for their tolerances too - after all, it's why it is so hard for a 3rd party to make parts for us.

DriveATransAm

i use a hoseclamp with a piece or rubber hose. hoseclamp it to your pipe and wala. make sure the rubber hose is between the floor board and pipe

TaTommyWS6

I would sledge hammer my floor pans, but my good ol' Macs don't bang at all!!!

Tommy

PS. Its about time you threw some SFCs on that car anyway....

robertbartsch

I suppose that if I use a rubber hose clamped to the Y-pipe that I should remove the **** before I go for NY inspection.

They DO take a mirror under the car to check for leaking, rusting, and modified exhaust systems... I'm sure they would spot this immediatly and fail the car making me take off the aftermarket pipes and headers...

If I go without the rubber clamped to the system, I can at least have a straight face if they ask about it. I would tell them these pipes came out of the factory like this with the SS package...

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

The Y-pipe banging is old news, but I agree with Viper. My Grotts are tucked up pretty close, but even so I have very little ground clearance with my ProKit springs. The problem is that there has to be a balance between floorpan clearance and ground clearance. As I recall the FLP's were designed to maximize ground clearance (thereby tucking them up closely) for lowered cars. When you factor in GM's loose tolerances, you simply will not get a perfect fit every time. Combine that with the sloppy stock motor mounts and you have a recipe for banging. It's just something these F-bodies are going to have to deal with. My theory is this: design an exhaust that uses flex joints or ovalized piping and you will solve most of the problems. Of course it'll cost more too, so then people will bitch about that instead...