Textralia OZ700: Z grip Review
01-14-2008, 06:27 AM
#1
Textralia OZ700: Z grip Review ***This for the Eastern Members forum and update on the project
First off I want to state that I love working with a lift. I dont know what I would have done had I had no choice to swap it out on the ground. I know I can do it but why break my ***** more then needed.
Second, with all my after market stuff such as the Dynatech headers, BMR TQ arm, Moser Rear, 3" steel DS, The trans wasn't too difficult to get out. I've done this like 3 times but this is the 1st time for this car (39,800 miles on her).
Situation
Stockish power (bolt ons, stock tune), BMR suspension on M/T ET Street Radials launching at 5.5k rpms leading to dead pedal syndrome. The Slave was bent on the bleeder screw and I couldnt get the dead fluid out.
In the near future, alot more power.....
Solution:
Decided that I needed to swap the slave, and while I was in there, do the clutch and its nearing the 40k mark. With the expectation of making 400ish rwhp in the future, might as well do it all now.
Parts List:
Textralia Oz700 Z-grip (comes with billet steel Flywheel, Pressure Plate, and clutch DisK)
GM Slave Cyl w/ throw out bearing
GM Pilot Bearing
Pennzoil Syncromesh fluid- (literally the same stuff as GM but like 1/2 the price).
Criteria
Durability- Lasting more then 5k miles is a must
Streetability- Drive like stock, normal engagement point, little or no chatter
Power Handling- Can take 400-600 hp and 5-6k clutch dumps
When deciding on a Clutch, I had 4 choices that I was considering....
1) GM LS7
2) Spec 3+
3) Ram HD
4) Textralia
1) GM LS7 was def a front runner due to price but may post of them not liking off the limiter launches and with my car, its needed. But does drive like stock, sometimes has issue with low engagement.
2) In regards to Specs, my buds has both blown through Specs (2, 3, and 3+)like they are water, they are not really a "street" clutch, they can be driven on the street but you cant slip them like stock, but they do handle power well. Again
3) Ram HD was another consideration, one of my buds switched to it, has had great luck with it but havent really put it under hard racing situation so Its still unproven to me. Has bear trap like pedal pressure.
4) Lastly with the Tex clutch, nothing but good reviews, drives like stock, can handle power and is durable in the long run. A bit pricey, about 300$ over Spec 3+ but will last.
Review:
Removed the old stuff with in 40 mins, the stock LS6 clutch had some hotspots on the flywheel and pressure plate, it was not long for life, that was for sure. I am now willing to wager, due to dead clutch fluid and racing it, it beat up the whole unit, and since I couldnt swap the fluid, it just hurt her more. It was just a matter of time before it fragged.
The install went fairly smooth, got snagged up mating the trans to bell housing, the splines on the input shaft just being a lil tight but we got it.
My clutch line was already wrapped so that saved us a few minutes. The install/alignment tool worked fine. the trans took 3 and 1/2 Quarts of the Pennzoil Syncromesh.
We bleed the clutch on the lift, using Valvoline Syn power DOT4 We did about 4 series and by the time we filled for the last time it had AWESOME pedal pressure. It felt better then I have ever felt in this car. It was NO were near a peddle like a Spec, felt strong.
The car fired right up and when I put it in reverse I felt the engagement point was nice and high and didnt chatter at all when I was backing up. When driving home, even at a stop almost no chatter and the car neve r got over 3k rpms. But I felt when I let the clutch up, the tires bit hard, The 0z700 felt VERY positive.
I have about 30 miles on it and so far I am gald I spent the money for it. I will put 200-250 miles on it before even thinking about being hard on it. I want to definitly do some heat cycles on here.
I will have more when I start to race it, Also I must remember to be mindful swapping out the clutch fluid every track day and keep it clean.
Also to mention, once the fluid got up to operating temp the Syncromesh made the trans feel REALLY smooth, mine tends to be notchy but I bearly notice if it all. Another big thumbs up.
First off I want to state that I love working with a lift. I dont know what I would have done had I had no choice to swap it out on the ground. I know I can do it but why break my ***** more then needed.
Second, with all my after market stuff such as the Dynatech headers, BMR TQ arm, Moser Rear, 3" steel DS, The trans wasn't too difficult to get out. I've done this like 3 times but this is the 1st time for this car (39,800 miles on her).
Situation
Stockish power (bolt ons, stock tune), BMR suspension on M/T ET Street Radials launching at 5.5k rpms leading to dead pedal syndrome. The Slave was bent on the bleeder screw and I couldnt get the dead fluid out.
In the near future, alot more power.....
Solution:
Decided that I needed to swap the slave, and while I was in there, do the clutch and its nearing the 40k mark. With the expectation of making 400ish rwhp in the future, might as well do it all now.
Parts List:
Textralia Oz700 Z-grip (comes with billet steel Flywheel, Pressure Plate, and clutch DisK)
GM Slave Cyl w/ throw out bearing
GM Pilot Bearing
Pennzoil Syncromesh fluid- (literally the same stuff as GM but like 1/2 the price).
Criteria
Durability- Lasting more then 5k miles is a must
Streetability- Drive like stock, normal engagement point, little or no chatter
Power Handling- Can take 400-600 hp and 5-6k clutch dumps
When deciding on a Clutch, I had 4 choices that I was considering....
1) GM LS7
2) Spec 3+
3) Ram HD
4) Textralia
1) GM LS7 was def a front runner due to price but may post of them not liking off the limiter launches and with my car, its needed. But does drive like stock, sometimes has issue with low engagement.
2) In regards to Specs, my buds has both blown through Specs (2, 3, and 3+)like they are water, they are not really a "street" clutch, they can be driven on the street but you cant slip them like stock, but they do handle power well. Again
3) Ram HD was another consideration, one of my buds switched to it, has had great luck with it but havent really put it under hard racing situation so Its still unproven to me. Has bear trap like pedal pressure.
4) Lastly with the Tex clutch, nothing but good reviews, drives like stock, can handle power and is durable in the long run. A bit pricey, about 300$ over Spec 3+ but will last.
Review:
Removed the old stuff with in 40 mins, the stock LS6 clutch had some hotspots on the flywheel and pressure plate, it was not long for life, that was for sure. I am now willing to wager, due to dead clutch fluid and racing it, it beat up the whole unit, and since I couldnt swap the fluid, it just hurt her more. It was just a matter of time before it fragged.
The install went fairly smooth, got snagged up mating the trans to bell housing, the splines on the input shaft just being a lil tight but we got it.
My clutch line was already wrapped so that saved us a few minutes. The install/alignment tool worked fine. the trans took 3 and 1/2 Quarts of the Pennzoil Syncromesh.
We bleed the clutch on the lift, using Valvoline Syn power DOT4 We did about 4 series and by the time we filled for the last time it had AWESOME pedal pressure. It felt better then I have ever felt in this car. It was NO were near a peddle like a Spec, felt strong.
The car fired right up and when I put it in reverse I felt the engagement point was nice and high and didnt chatter at all when I was backing up. When driving home, even at a stop almost no chatter and the car neve r got over 3k rpms. But I felt when I let the clutch up, the tires bit hard, The 0z700 felt VERY positive.
I have about 30 miles on it and so far I am gald I spent the money for it. I will put 200-250 miles on it before even thinking about being hard on it. I want to definitly do some heat cycles on here.
I will have more when I start to race it, Also I must remember to be mindful swapping out the clutch fluid every track day and keep it clean.
Also to mention, once the fluid got up to operating temp the Syncromesh made the trans feel REALLY smooth, mine tends to be notchy but I bearly notice if it all. Another big thumbs up.
01-14-2008, 07:28 AM
#4
From what I researched and from what I read your going to like it, just make sure the slave, and hydraulics are updated and bleed properly. There is no drill mod done to this car, but I dont power shift.
On the 4th of the 4 series of the bleeds (I only needed a Small Brake fluid bottle, not a big one)
The pedal had alot of travel but my helper hadnt refilled the resivore and once he did, all the peddle came right back. Just awesome.
On the 4th of the 4 series of the bleeds (I only needed a Small Brake fluid bottle, not a big one)
The pedal had alot of travel but my helper hadnt refilled the resivore and once he did, all the peddle came right back. Just awesome.
01-14-2008, 09:12 AM
#5
I've had my Textralia in for 2.5 years now, and really like the clutch. Put it in after I welded a spec 3 x-pad to the flywheel after 5k miles. Streetability is great, like stock engagement and no chatter. Had been holding up real well at the track, but the past season I had a couple of hiccups where I couldn't grab the gears. I think some of it was due to a less than ideal burnout in a dry box (LVD seems to like to conserve water) and overheating the clutch. When the man Chef stepped in and hosed down the box, and gave me a little bit of guidance, the burnouts went much better and the clutch shifted great again.
01-14-2008, 09:51 AM
#6
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Same clutch i am running. I love it, made it through last season great even with the hit of nitrous. It didnt even slip when i wheel hopped and snapped the main shaft in my t56 
01-14-2008, 10:03 AM
#8
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I've had my Textralia in for 2.5 years now, and really like the clutch. Put it in after I welded a spec 3 x-pad to the flywheel after 5k miles. Streetability is great, like stock engagement and no chatter. Had been holding up real well at the track, but the past season I had a couple of hiccups where I couldn't grab the gears. I think some of it was due to a less than ideal burnout in a dry box (LVD seems to like to conserve water) and overheating the clutch. When the man Chef stepped in and hosed down the box, and gave me a little bit of guidance, the burnouts went much better and the clutch shifted great again.
01-14-2008, 11:12 AM
#9
When we do a clutch it is good to put a new slave in. As for F-body's it is very important to do the drill mod not matter how you drive it.Then you bench bleed it.Then change the clutch fluid in the resivior atleast 2-3 times a year.Never a need to bleed it that way.