FiredUpZ28

The car is a 93 Z28. I'm installing a set of Pacesetter LTs. I had a problem with driver side clearance with a primary and the engine mount. A grinder took care of that. Now the driver side header is bolted in(not torqued yet) and I noticed the collector sits just barely too high. I won't be able to connect the Y pipe to the collector because it will hit the body. Anyone else have this issue?

RickyMartinZ28

iTrader: (5)

Mine actually cleared fairly well on the drivers side. Mine was really close though, and still hits under hard acceleration.

BFH.

-Rick

Razor_Blade

iTrader: (8)

Mine was really close. I had to unhook the trans crossmember and let the engine and trans tilt back in order to get the Y pipe on. Once it was installed it fit nice. It's close but it never hits.

FiredUpZ28

Hmm.. sounds like a good idea. But once I bolt the crossmember back up I'm pretty sure the Y pipe will hit the body - right where the Y connects with the collector. If all else fails it it safe to cut a little bit of the under side to make room?

Edit : Im a f*cking retard. I didn't notice that the y pipe had a flat spot in it for this specific reason

transamws6_97

iTrader: (5)

imo i wouldnt be cutting the car to make headers fit...either maybe send them back for another set or there is a problem elsewhere....its not a custom piece or nothing you shouldnt have to do that crap

FiredUpZ28

Thats what I was thinking - glad I figured it out before I took out the cut off wheel. I know how well "after market" is supposed to fit but that was ridiculous.

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Go here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/783145-my-new-exhaust-dyno-numbers.html

and this should help:

REMOVAL FOR STEERING LINKAGE

The LT's were a bit of a pain, it just takes time. The steering linkage, is connected with two bolts. The first bolt is up at the top by your master cylinder (the big saucer looking thing). There will be a shroud plastic cover over the bolt. Just take the bolt out and you are almost done. The second bolt is located right under the knuckle that is in the middle of the steering linkage. The bolt comes right before where the steering linkage connects to the rack and pinion. So you take out the top bolt and the bottom bolt. I believe the bottom bolt is a mertric and the top is a standard. Once you remove these two bolts take your hand and grap the portion below the steering knuckle, and push up and back, so that the top part of the steering shaft slides over the part that the top bolt bolted into. Then I took a rubber malte a took the top of it and lightly hit it on the knuckle part of the steering linkage. You will see the top part of the steering linkage slide over the top where the bolt was bolted. After this is done, and you have removed the bottom part (the steering linkage is no more attached to the rack and pinion then grab the bottom portion of the steering linkage which is under the knuckle and pull down, this will cause the top now to slide do and out. Just remeber to put the steering linkage on the way you took it off, I tighted my bolts on both really tight when I put m steering linkage back on.

REMOVAL FOR OIL DIPSTICK

The oil dipstick is located on the passanger side of course. You will need to remove you A.I.R connections on your passagner side, the rubber tubes, and then your set. The dipstick is a little tricky. What I did was I jacked up my car and put jackstand on the front of the car. Then i got my friend to grab the DS. There is a bolt which is located up up along the oil dipstick. I would find the dipstick it is in the block some, and follow that up, you will hit like a little bracket / brace thing that is bolted to the block. It is actually more of a flang that anything. Take that bolt out I believe it is a 1/8 in bolt, or metric (something in that size range). Once you take that bolt up, take your hand on the flange part that you just unbolted, and have a friend up top to menueve the DS out. I would grab that flange and slightly pull up and wiggle genelty (VERY GENTLY) left to right, you will see the DS start to move it's way out of the block. Keep on wiggling the DS till it is completely out of then block, then have your friend grab the DS and pull it completely out of the car. Make sure that you do not bend the DS. The DS will go in a lot easier than it came out trust me. If you cannot get the DS out, b/c you cannot grip it, take some vise grips and lightly get as close as you can to where the DS meets the block, and clamp onto the DS, and then slightly pull up and wiggle left to right just like before until it comes out.

If you need anymore help at all, I will help in anyway I can. Ask if you have questions or concerns on anything during this header install or any car problem.


Later,
Devin (blk97z28)

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

I have heard of ppl making the header collector bend down in order to slip them on. What I did was I bent the header down a bit to slip the y-pipe on. So will even go through the hassle to cut the collector of and make a down collector flang thing so that the collector is now pointing down in order to make the y-pipe fit.

FiredUpZ28

But I appreciate all the input
I don't have a big enough jack so I'm going to unbolt the motor mounts and jack the engine up a little to get the passenger side header in. Had to do it on a 4.6 Stang - so its no big deal. Driver side actually fit in through the top after I took the steering shaft out.