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help the 17 year old the races are saturday

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Old 03-11-2008, 11:58 PM
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Default help the 17 year old the races are saturday

ok well i got my rear mount put back togetheri had it on th lift and put it in 1st (A4) and held te brakes and hit the gas ....help it at 3500 for a sec then slowly went up to red line then let off BOV can on somewhat i think AND THE CAR ALMOST DIES....but n boost and i dont think it even hit the 0 mark...

....so i took it off the lift and tried to do a burn out and it wouldnt even break the tires loose......so i re ran my refrence line for the waste gate it is on the compressor of the turbo and also the T for the gauge and BOV on my brake booster...

so i took it back of the lift and took it to the street irode first gear till about 6500 and let it shift still no boost and same in secound gear but i put it back it first and punched it then let off and the BOV psst but no boost ...well i rode around for a while after checking stuff again and thn whnen i punched it it started smoking out of the exhaust side of the turbo (has no pipe just the turbo) so i checked for leaks and no oil leaks i think it is oil going into the hot side of the turbo it looks like it shot oil out of the exhaust side or "is" shooting ..Still have yet to see boost

.the waste gate is set at 7psi open atmoshpere on the exhaust part and it is a greddy adjustable BOV the turbo is a 50a.r/84a.r the return line to the pump and engine is 3/8 line..the maf sensor is on the intake side of the turbo right after the cone filter...
Old 03-12-2008, 08:06 AM
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come on anyone please throw some ideas
Old 03-12-2008, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 93blacktransam
(has no pipe just the turbo) so i checked for leaks and no oil leaks i think it is oil going into the hot side of the turbo it looks like it shot oil out of the exhaust side or "is" shooting ..Still have yet to see boost
you mean you dont have a down pipe on the turbo at all?
Old 03-12-2008, 10:31 AM
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Old saying pic is worth a 1000 words. We are having some trouble understanding your above post..at least I am. Turbos are simple things.
Or should be simple. You should be copying sts as they make working systems. So intake should be at back off the turbo. Maf should be at front where it normally is. You have to run maf unless you are going speed density then you don't need maf.

Now your problems. If you have no boost you need to see why. If the exhaust is spinning up the turbo then it would be a matter of leaks from turbo to the engine. You can make a boost tester from home depot parts and an air compressor or you can use an automotive smoke machine tester.
You need to have no leaks. This means also you usually need proper and not cheap silicone not home depot rubber couplers and preferably t bolt clamps although worm gear clamps can work at lower boost levels. If you have no boost leaks going to the engine and you have no leaks from the exhaust going to the turbo it should be boosting. If its not then likely a defective turbo..does it seem to spin good. Is there much play in and out and back and forth..can you hear the blades hitting or do they turn smoothly. You can just turn the turbo by hand?
If the turbo is blowing oil out the exhaust then you might have a problem with too much oil to the turbo. You might need a restrictor in the oil feed line and you might have problem with pcv system causing too much pressure build up. Your turbo is ebay special...? It could be piece of junk. Good turbos cost 800 and up just for the turbo. With most being over 1000 bucks.

For wastegate there is a simple test. Don't hook up any vacuum/boost source at all to the wastegate and it will stay closed. Carefully give it gas and you should see boost. Now you could see 20psi doing this but you control boost with your right foot and hope you have an accurate boost guage. You simply give it boost to 5 psi or so and then you can reconnect wastegate.The tails are a bit confusing on where to connect if you have the top and bottom nipples. Depending on what if any boost control you are using. You need one nipple installed and vented usually and use the other one. You use both I think with electronic boost control.
If the tial is opening all the time you will have no boost. They come with different springs. Hopefully you have a 5 to 7psi one .Your stock engine can't take more than this. Hopefully you have tuning done to knock your afr to 11.0 or so and your timing down. Hope you are running premium. Hope you installed 42 pounds injectors and upgraded to a racetronix or similar pump or added a boost a pump setup or at least an inline pump.Hope you changed your spark plugs to one colder heat range and gapped them tighter.

Turbos are simple in theory but do take some smarts in practice.

Another reason you might be getting no boost is the blow off might not be sealing. Is it a real greedy or an ebay knock off. the knock offs often don't work. You get what you pay for in this world. An auto does not really need the blow off. You could run with no blow off with your auto. The auto should build boost no problem of course a stall would help also.

Depending on AR you could have problems with either not spooling till higher rpm or not having much if any top end. Thats why matching the turbos is important especially in a rear mount where they usually use different ARs than front mounts.

So hoping this gives you some ideas. Please beg ,borrow or steal a digital camera,take good close clear pics of your entire setup and we will have a better chance of getting things working. You may still need to buy another turbo, another blow off, etc its not that easy to cheap out and build a working turbo system. Most systems cost 4000 and up for a good reason.

Home depot turbos don't work too well.
Old 03-12-2008, 11:00 AM
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Found this article on sts turbo.

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te.../photo_13.html install...

Has quite a few pictures. Your maf should be close to your intake not on the intake of the turbo next to your air filter. Or you need hptuners and then can get rid of the maf. They had problems with rain even with the sock. They went to no maf and it helped.
Oil coming out turbo can also be due to not having the scavenge pump doing its job properly. You need to get the oil out of there and back to the pan.

While we have some respect for you from trying this custom turbo project you were likely ahead of the game to just do a front mount turbo and buy parts from sponsor and stuff or find a used sts kit.
I would not think you will be going to the track anytime soon. Did you install bigger injectors and pump and did you tune the car yet to leaner afr and lower timing. Do you have a wideband 02?
If you haven't and you get any kind of reasonable boost kaboom is the next thing you are likely to hear...Hope you have money for a new engine.. You can get a cheap nitrous system that can give you 100 hp or so for under 1000 bucks with the required support mods. Might be better way to go.

Last edited by MY99TAWS6; 03-12-2008 at 11:43 AM.
Old 03-12-2008, 11:25 AM
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Hmm link don't want to work now..
Old 03-12-2008, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by MY99TAWS6
Hmm link don't want to work now..
take the O off the end of the link.
Old 03-12-2008, 11:43 AM
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Yep works now.
Old 03-12-2008, 01:11 PM
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you need a downpipe to get into boost, FYI
Old 03-12-2008, 01:30 PM
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Well he should have a downpipe from the engine to the turbo obviously and sts don't use a muffler. I am starting to wonder if this guy is on the level. We have seen no pictures ,surely he can get ahold of a digital camera. And you should take time to spell a bit better and make your posts clearer. I am starting to think this is a honda boy pulling our chains. We would like to help ,especially if you are on the level. I have a young friend that was just twenty that did up a nice sts lt1. Age is not necessarily a factor although experience don't hurt and you are taking on a lot for a first project by going this route. A nice nitrous kit or traditional heads/cam/headers might be a better way to go.
If you are on the level might as well get those pics posted and we can better help you figure out what you need to do. But you may find your cobbled together setup is going to mostly need to be replaced and ripped apart for it even to work at all.

And you didn't mention if you have anyone tuning this thing? Please don't let this turn into the many ghetto honda turbo builds I have seen. Last one actually ran high 12s...BRIEFLY! LOL VERY BRIEFLY!
Old 03-12-2008, 02:21 PM
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oh my god........

first off...your not gonna see any boost spinning the tires up in the air on the lift....no load on the rear tires to built boost

2nd...you NEED a downpipe

3rd....how is your oil feed/drain setup?? Sounds like you dont have them vertical and the oil isnt draining and your blowing it out the exhaust side....BAD. Your gonna blow your seals.

4th...before you start trying to do burnouts. FIX your car. After you fix it...GET A TUNE! beating on it, before a tune is only gonna break ****...and your wallet.

5th...LOL
Old 03-12-2008, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by kidcamaro98
oh my god........

first off...your not gonna see any boost spinning the tires up in the air on the lift....no load on the rear tires to built boost

2nd...you NEED a downpipe

3rd....how is your oil feed/drain setup?? Sounds like you dont have them vertical and the oil isnt draining and your blowing it out the exhaust side....BAD. Your gonna blow your seals.

4th...before you start trying to do burnouts. FIX your car. After you fix it...GET A TUNE! beating on it, before a tune is only gonna break ****...and your wallet.

5th...LOL
6...???????

7. Profit

Old 03-12-2008, 02:46 PM
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Are you still running a MAF sensor? If so, that' might be why your car dies/bogs down when you close the throttle - you're dumping air that's already been metered by the MAF, and causing an overly rich condition.

I did the same thing several years ago with a TTi street kit after installing a turbonetics godzilla valve ... everytime I'd let off the gas, the engine would bog down bad or die - it would take several seconds to idle correctly.
Old 03-12-2008, 11:18 PM
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ok well i took pics and the guy is supose to send them to me today......i got the smoking problem fixed for now i think....i put a restrictor in the conectors to the turbo and no more smoke.......but we are taking that out and putting in a regulator in the oil line .... i made half of my down pipe and will finish tomorow ...but i dont get how no down pipe would make it not boost...... its just like a exhuast pipe? the turbo spins fine nice and smoth and spins at idle ....

when i get on it it really isnt loud at all you can barly here the turbo spool really just exhaust but at idle i rev it and you can hear it a lil better so the turbo is spinning why would there be no boost

and i think there is a leak between the turbo flange that in connected to the exhaust and a leak at the dout after the manifolds....

and im not spending the money to get it tuned untill it at least boost a lil bit..but i have the tune set up as soon as it is ready along with injectors fuel pump and driveterain
Old 03-12-2008, 11:45 PM
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Well ok then..be interested to see those pictures. I think we have a misundestanding. You have a pipe from the exhaust manifolds into the turbo correct? Obviously if the turbo is spinning up. You just don't have pipe coming off the turbo for exhaust out of it?
I assume you didn't use a muffler,sts doesn't. A leak in the pipe to the turbo from the exhaust manifolds could cause much less boost. You need to get sufficient exhaust velocity to spin the turbo up and pressurize those long tubes back to the intake manifold.
And you can have leaks in the pipes and connections back to the intake manifold.
Thats why you could make a leak tester with home depot plumibing fernco fitting and bicyle tire valve and compressor or use an automotive smoke machine to check for leaks.Any leak is bad.

I guess no big deal if you get your tuning right after you get some boost but don't get tempted to floor the car before that. You can do damage pretty fast at factory AFR levels and timing. Keep your foot out of it and I would still tune the afr and timing roughly now but again its your money and your engine.
Also when you are regulating the oil to the turbo its also a fine line .You might oil starve it and kill it. A non ball bearing turbo usually needs quite a bit of oil ,BB not nearly as much. And assume this turbo is not water cooled also? And its not BB for under 1000 bucks.
Old 03-13-2008, 01:26 AM
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gut the cats , make sure you have no leaks before or after the turbo, NONE!!! and make sure your waste gate is stuck open, if its not then you got one fucked up turbo, turob
=simple engine makes exhaust, exhaust spins turbo, turbo shoots air back up to throttle body= HP!!! make sure all of this is done, if this is all done properly there should be no reason at all that your not making boost. unless your just special and forgot to connect charge piping back up to the throttle body .
Old 03-13-2008, 01:27 AM
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sry bout that last post, make sure your waste gate is NOT stuck open
Old 03-13-2008, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by mycar2fast
sry bout that last post, make sure your waste gate is NOT stuck open
I just caught that too but get some pics up as soon as possible.
Old 03-13-2008, 02:46 AM
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$10 says its missing the valve seat in the wastegate.
Old 03-13-2008, 03:11 AM
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i will check that tomorow....there was a few of us putting this all together at the same time...so ive recently found out there it no gasket between the t3 flang and the exhaust flange....we did not replace the triangle gasket on the manifold after we took town the exhaust to gut the cat....and i highly doubt they put in the valve seat in the wastegate ....

well i will try to get pics asap and i will update on the information for the boost or no boost at the end of the day....thank you for all the help



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