new o2 sensor still throws code
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new o2 sensor still throws code
i just installed a new passenger side rear o2 sensor because i had a code p0157 low voltage bank 2 sensor 2 drove about 50 miles and then it threw that same code what else could it be bad sensor from factory or what? any help is appreciated
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#10
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To OP: Nonfoulers will not help. They do exactly what they're called. They don't let the plug foul. Now if you can get some Code Nonthrowers, A.K.A. O2 simulators, you'll be good to go.
#12
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O2 codes don't necessarily mean that the sensor is bad.
If I recall correctly, I got that code from a dirty MAF. A dirty MAF can cause the air reading to be artificially low, triggering the computer to make you lean. Which, in turn, can cause the O2 voltage to go out of bounds.
If this is your case, you'll probably also notice some hesitation in the engine under heavy accelearation.
If I recall correctly, I got that code from a dirty MAF. A dirty MAF can cause the air reading to be artificially low, triggering the computer to make you lean. Which, in turn, can cause the O2 voltage to go out of bounds.
If this is your case, you'll probably also notice some hesitation in the engine under heavy accelearation.
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it runs good and today it went off for awhile then came back on under normal driving i just cleaned maf sensor and filter. if the foulers dont work y has not the driver side threw a code after 10k miles. i think it is a wiring prob so what do i check im sure the o2 wiring is ok so were does the rest of the wiring go and will the o2 sims fix it even if the wiring is messed up the wire look visually ok but i havent looked real good
#14
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If you have one bad sensor and have a true emissions problem, its possible that the good one is the one giving you the code. That being said, when I had my MAF problem, I did get codes from both sides. (A P0137 and P0157)
If you can get a hold of a scan tool/software that maps out the O2 sensor waveforms, you should be able to see very easily if the two are off from each other or if one is flat-lining on you.
If you can get a hold of a scan tool/software that maps out the O2 sensor waveforms, you should be able to see very easily if the two are off from each other or if one is flat-lining on you.
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It means maybe - but as stated earlier in the thread, you don't need the rear sensors if you have the CATs removed. They are just there to monitor the CATs and their performance.
The only way to tell for sure if a sensor is on the fritz is to get a tool that can show you the waveforms being put out by the sensors. (Which is a bit of an investment.) It could be a wiring problem and GM has a special procedure in the factory manual for confirming a wiring issue - but you need a scan tool that can read the sensors.
I would suggest that you first see how your clean filters and MAF do for you. From my experience, it seems that the MAF readings are dominant over all the O2 sensor readings, which is why I suggest trying them first. (Its also a cheap and easy thing to do.)
The only way to tell for sure if a sensor is on the fritz is to get a tool that can show you the waveforms being put out by the sensors. (Which is a bit of an investment.) It could be a wiring problem and GM has a special procedure in the factory manual for confirming a wiring issue - but you need a scan tool that can read the sensors.
I would suggest that you first see how your clean filters and MAF do for you. From my experience, it seems that the MAF readings are dominant over all the O2 sensor readings, which is why I suggest trying them first. (Its also a cheap and easy thing to do.)
#19
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it runs good and today it went off for awhile then came back on under normal driving i just cleaned maf sensor and filter. if the foulers dont work y has not the driver side threw a code after 10k miles. i think it is a wiring prob so what do i check im sure the o2 wiring is ok so were does the rest of the wiring go and will the o2 sims fix it even if the wiring is messed up the wire look visually ok but i havent looked real good