droptopT/A

iTrader: (19)

im having a hard time installing my slp pulley any ideas on how to pu it on i tried a 2x4 and a hammer but it didnt work can i put it in the oven and warm it up

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

You need a INSTALL TOOL. Stop trying to beat it on, your going damage your bearings. also DO NOT use a stock bolt, longer bolt etc etc.

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

warming it up in the oven does help out! May be the only mod you get to do with oven mitts.

droptopT/A

iTrader: (19)

lol how hot and how long do i leae it in the oven

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Sure heat might expand the pulley hub enough to make getting it onto the crankshaft snout easier, but what is that heat going to do to thin rubber oil seal the hub slides through on its' way to an appointment with the the oil pump/timing chain sprocket. Better to use the pusher tool without the heat. You can't go wrong for $40.

ls1_doc

iTrader: (6)

Where can you get that tool ?

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

Check in the tool section. someone sells them. A longer bolt to pull it on is what you need.

SLP Firehawk

iTrader: (9)

i put mine in the oven and beat the **** out of it then used a longer bolt to install it.... worked and the bearings seem to be ok

Da Swami

iTrader: (6)

Member 618hawk makes the tool. Good stuff from what I've heard.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

GM dealership has bolt about 4-6.00
go to http://www.aspraceing.com,then go to belt section and get belt #'s go to local parts supplier and they can cross to a belt which they srock ( I like the goodyear gater back belts ) think about 20.00 each , I will post some info below hope some of it helps :::

REmove the small 2 in round plug on bottom of bellhouseing insert a BIg screw driver or pry bar into the teeth of fly wheel ( you will need a freind to help) may need to insert one behind the flap behind the starter also >>>( NO need to remove the starter) OR you may order the special tool from GM which will bolt to block which will hold the fly wheel
get a big peice of pipe to use as cheater on on ratchet or breaker bar ( some say bind bar and bump starter to loose crank bolt ( I WOULD NEVER DO THIS )
Will need a 3 leg puller that will pull from the inside ( never from outside ) of stock pulley (may rent from local past supplier )
>>>when ready to re install I get two new crank bolts from dealer and weld a 5/8 x 4 in bolt to head of one ,
( will need to grind down the washer on stock bolt so that it will fit threw the pulley) screw the welded crank bolt in to crank slide a socket( one that will just fit inside the pulley- to use as a guide to start pulley stright ) over the welded 5/8 bolt ,use this to pull the puller back on this way you are not puting much strain on the threads inside the crank Lubricate and mount the ASP pulley onto the snout. Once it is pressed close to flush ( about 1/8 being flush) then install old bolt and tighten it to 240 ft. lbs. or until it is completely seated on the crank snout. Afterwards, REMOVE THE STOCK BOLT and replace it with the NEW CRANK BOLT. You will tighten the NEW bolt to 37 ft. lbs. and then turn it an >>additonal 120 degrees.<<<

hope this helps Johnny
ps:: I install a new seal any time I remove a pulley($10.00 and 10 minutes now is better than haveing a leak and haveing to remve pulley again

may make a tool to hold flywheel
hope the drawing of tool is understandable
use a 1/8 x 2 flat bar about 12 in long insert into flywheel threw the round hole in botton of bellhouseing ,the notch in side will hold tool in place
PS: THE DRAWING DOES NOT SHOW UP CORRECT ,it should be about 2 in wide all the way down

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408z28

iTrader: (44)

I make a tool as well...My digital camara's battery is dead or I would send you some pics of it. You can make it easily, the only down side is the hardened threaded rod I get is $42.00 for a 3' section. So if you just want to make one tool its kinda pricey. Its better if you find a couple of guys that need one and split the cost. Automotive fasteners, or any local bolt company will have this stuff.


How to make balancer install tool......

-Take your threaded rod stock(size of balancer bolt I think 18mm) and cut it into 1 foot pieces (this way you can make three tools) Once again any fastener/bolt store will have it.

- get (2) 1/8" grade 8 washers, and (1) grade 8 nut.

- spray one end of one of your sections of rod stock with wd-40, pb blaster, oil, etc.
and thread it into the end of your crank till it stops(BY HAND!)

- slip your 3 washers on the rod, and thred the nut on the end and draw it down.

Theres your tool. Its alot less work than ghetto rigging a stock bolt, and welding pieces together, plus there is no stress on the threads inside the crank snout, your pulling against the stud not the crank. Hell, I might start selling them. Anybody want one??

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Read the instructions, the hub is an intereference fit, which means the ID of the hub is smaller than the OD of the crank. You should measure but most don't have the correct tools to do this. The tool below cost me less than $20

(Some of the answers in this thread are downright scary)

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

If the oven method is so great why would you still need to "beat the **** out of it and then use a longer bolt"? I've read posts where people say that after heating the pulley in the oven it slides all the way home on the crankshaft with no help from handtools being required. Personally I like to "feel" the pulley reach home which happens when the torque needed to turn the pusher tool goes through the roof when the pulley reaches home position. Replacing the seal is a good suggestion, but heating a new seal with a pulley that just came out of a 300 degree oven isn't my way of making sure the seal keeps the oil in my pan as well as sealing crankcase pressures.

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

worked for me with no issues. i did nto have to beat on mine to get it on. Pretty easy really,,for a scary answer.

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

I heated mine and then used a longer bolt. No problem. Getting it torqued was a different problem. A long cheater bar helped.

Good luck.
Bill

mrhzk35404

iTrader: (7)

I made my own, I think it cost me around 25-30 bucks or so. I got the threaded rod, nuts, and washers from fastenal.

454mag

iTrader: (17)

Am I the only one who just zings it off and on with an impact ? Works beautiful I do use a longer bolt first on the install and boil the pulley so it gets hot but not hot enough to damage the rubber. My impact is good for 1000 lb/ft so im sure i get more than 240 on there. never had a problem doing it this way.